daedalusminos
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A little more progress on The Oaks model - front porch columns and ballustrade around the roof..
The actual model is coming on well too...
- Thread starter Dr.Al
- Start date
A little more progress on The Oaks model - front porch columns and ballustrade around the roof..
The actual model is coming on well too...
Housing for a microcontroller I built around a Raspberry Pi 4 - it has a 16-input card, 8 relay output card, real-time clock module and a cooling fan
Then it got an extension to accommodate an Arduino as an analogue/digital converter, and some DIN rail mounts...
what's it for?
oddbob
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Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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Controls an industrial x-ray cabinet - operator loads parts onto a scissor table, selects the 'recipe' which is made up of voltage, current and time parameters plus the distance of the part from the x-ray head. All this in a lead shielding cabinet of course.
Controller then shuts the doors, drops the table to the right height and pokes the shot values into the x-ray control, then starts the shot.
Monitors the state of the emergency stops, door positions, light curtain, height of the table and whether the various warning lamps are working correctly.
Has a database of the 'recipes' which can be added to, deleted or amended under password control for a supervisor, and an engineering over-ride mode which lets maintenance staff manually operate, test or recalibrate the various hardware - the over-riding concern being that the x-ray set can't be started unless the cabinet is secure and all critical bits working correctly (Ionizing Radiation Regulations says so).
All the hardware is off-the-shelf and the programming is taken care of by using 'Node Red' which stores all the code, graphics, notes etc. on the Ras Pi itself so no need for a servie techie to turn up with a laptop loaded with the correct version of proprietary programming software (e.g. when programming a Siemens PLC) - as long as you can open a web browser you can get into the code and make any changes on the fly.
Any monkey can turn up with a wireless router, the programmer can then find the Pi through the router and make code changes without leaving his skinny mocha latte and hoisin duck wrap, at his office desk. You could actually connect the Pi to the factory network and access it that way, but there's a security risk - you wouldn't want some spotty oik in Arkansas or Redditch taking control of your x-ray system.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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A handwheel for my sheet metal bender but based around an M16 nut. Just realised I used a st/st full nut instead of the galv one that I think is on the bender. This time rather than being a tight fit, it's a nice transition fit on the nut so can be lifted off easily. I can thus still spanner the nut for a tad extra bending width on the sheet.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Ali
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No so much to do with the material, but ‘resin’ printed parts are isotropic - ie., have the same strength in all directions. FDM prints are anisotropic.
I know big words.
Great read, thanks. Filament it is then
Ali
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Probably, but it sounds like a right faff?
Ali
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Got to be worth a shot then if certain parts need it. Something about ‘annealing’ the parts too? I struggle with cheese on toast to be honest so I’d probably just come back to a lump of melted plastic and a thick ear from the missus.
JMS1972
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Have a look at this guy if you want experiments on salt baking etc. He has a whole playlist on strength tests.
Mr Fro
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Define strong! :-D
I use both print methods quite a bit and suggest that using Prusa Tough resin can give a really nice finish and a part that is relatively strong under compressive loads, more dimensionally accurate than extrusion, more heat tolerant but prone to chipping.
On the flip side, extrusion can be quicker, you can make bigger parts and parts can have a degree of flex (depending on filament orientation). You can also use melt-in thread inserts which is handy.
Like everything in life, it really depends on what you're making and what it's for!
If I was buying a printer I'd probably get an extruder with a bunch of nozzle sizes to give flexibility on print quality. I'd also enjoy the cost saving on equipment and consumables. They're also less pfaffy as you don't need to mess about washing stuff down with IPA and dealing with resin contaminated IPA.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Try gently melting a tin of tallow or Temaxol on the hob to make all the swarf fall to the bottom after you've been dipping your drill in it on site.
That, or as I've been of late, baking off Positiv 20 etch resist in the main oven. Smells like the worst, uncleaned gents in the world!
That really pleases them. No wonder March 14th isn't celebrated in this house!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Whoops! My handwheels for the M16 stud on my metal folder.....the clearance hole is only 14mm.
The base model my lad did was for an M12 stud that he then modded. I forgot to mentioned it needed a bigger clearance and he didn't realise.
If I drill it out I'll be into the infill.
Maybe just run a heated up M16 tap through it?
The base model my lad did was for an M12 stud that he then modded. I forgot to mentioned it needed a bigger clearance and he didn't realise.
If I drill it out I'll be into the infill.
Maybe just run a heated up M16 tap through it?
Ali
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Drill it out and print a little top hat insert to glue in? Was going to suggest you could pause the print and make them captive next time
