Anguz
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Me too... and they still fitted
- Thread starter Dr.Al
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Screwdriver
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Still working on my JWST model so nothing to post except, wow! Some really nice prints in this thread.
ajlelectronics
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Nothing special, just a cap for standard square downpipe. I am using it to cover some internal pipework in the bathroom and it needed to look more designed.
Screwdriver
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You’re not getting a good seal with the Bowden end to the hot end. See if you can find my post where I link to the solution which hasn’t failed me yet.
It's nothing to do with the bowden tube.
The titanium heatbreak slackens out of the aluminium hotend, and it leaks up the thread.
It's one of a couple weak points of the design.
Screwdriver
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Wow, so the hot end is basically coming apart! That is rubbish design then. Is it only held in by that grub screw? Can you fit more?
<edit> usually it is the Bowden tube which moves away from the heat break, you’re suggesting the heat break is falling off but I don’t see how that allows molten filament to wick out of the thread, there’s not that much pressure in there and that’s a lot of plastic (looks exactly like mine used to when it failed….)
<edit> usually it is the Bowden tube which moves away from the heat break, you’re suggesting the heat break is falling off but I don’t see how that allows molten filament to wick out of the thread, there’s not that much pressure in there and that’s a lot of plastic (looks exactly like mine used to when it failed….)
The grub screw is what secures the hotend/heatbreak in, which is the other weak point.
If you need to change the nozzle, you have to take the cooling fan cover off (mines a Ender V1, so it's held on with two screws), and hold the hotend with pliers, otherwise the whole lot spins on the grubscrew.
Then you need to heat it up, check the hotend is still tight on the heatbreak, check the nozzle is still tight in the hotend, then realign it via the grubscrew, as inevitably it'll no longer be aligned.
Then repeat it whenever you see the black gunk building up again :/
If you need to change the nozzle, you have to take the cooling fan cover off (mines a Ender V1, so it's held on with two screws), and hold the hotend with pliers, otherwise the whole lot spins on the grubscrew.
Then you need to heat it up, check the hotend is still tight on the heatbreak, check the nozzle is still tight in the hotend, then realign it via the grubscrew, as inevitably it'll no longer be aligned.
Then repeat it whenever you see the black gunk building up again :/
Screwdriver
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Dr.Al
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These:
They're for clamping things on an MFT bench. The 20 mm dog is eccentric (by 1 mm) to the body, so turning the "handle" grips a workpiece on the edge, thus giving access to the whole top surface for planing or whatever.
I printed them in several different thicknesses (2 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm, 6 mm and 10 mm), although I doubt the thinner ones will be that useful / effective. They need to be used in combination with a fence (which I've also printed but not photographed) and some wedges (also printed and not photographed) and it's likely that the thinner ones will just lift up (or bend a thin workpiece) rather than clamping effectively. I figured it couldn't hurt to try though. To work on thin stuff it's probably better to use double-sided tape, although that can be a pain in the proverbial posterior to remove.
They're for clamping things on an MFT bench. The 20 mm dog is eccentric (by 1 mm) to the body, so turning the "handle" grips a workpiece on the edge, thus giving access to the whole top surface for planing or whatever.
I printed them in several different thicknesses (2 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm, 6 mm and 10 mm), although I doubt the thinner ones will be that useful / effective. They need to be used in combination with a fence (which I've also printed but not photographed) and some wedges (also printed and not photographed) and it's likely that the thinner ones will just lift up (or bend a thin workpiece) rather than clamping effectively. I figured it couldn't hurt to try though. To work on thin stuff it's probably better to use double-sided tape, although that can be a pain in the proverbial posterior to remove.
Is it just me or does everyone have the same issue with thingiverse.
www.thingiverse.com
Does anyone know how to download the old way , where ALL files can be downloaded in one zip file.
Downloading all those boxes ,one at a time, is laborious to say the least.
Modular boxes for every little thing (storage system) by Genom2Geri
How I made these boxes: https://youtu.be/b_DHTvRc66gAll in one zip: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5367239/zipIf someone wants to edit the boxes for their own purposes, there is a source in the files - all_boxes.stepIf someone needs certain versions of boxes that are not currently available -...
www.thingiverse.com
Does anyone know how to download the old way , where ALL files can be downloaded in one zip file.
Downloading all those boxes ,one at a time, is laborious to say the least.
yep, in the url just change files to zip and it downloads it all to a zip fileIs it just me or does everyone have the same issue with thingiverse.
Modular boxes for every little thing (storage system) by Genom2Geri
How I made these boxes: https://youtu.be/b_DHTvRc66gAll in one zip: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5367239/zipIf someone wants to edit the boxes for their own purposes, there is a source in the files - all_boxes.stepIf someone needs certain versions of boxes that are not currently available -...
Does anyone know how to download the old way , where ALL files can be downloaded in one zip file.
Downloading all those boxes ,one at a time, is laborious to say the least.
I think on/off said that previously but I could not get it to work...
I would like to have made this but...can someone load this up and see how long it says it will take to print.
Its saying 1 day and 10 hours in cura 5
www.thingiverse.com
Its saying 1 day and 10 hours in cura 5
TV remote control holder by NiccceGary
Has a built in dock for a BYO switch controller charger.Feel free to post a photo if you print it and let me know if i can add or fix anything.
www.thingiverse.com
tflnemesis
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I would like to have made this but...can someone load this up and see how long it says it will take to print.
Its saying 1 day and 10 hours in cura 5
I am getting 1 day 56 minutes from cura
1.2 mm walls, 10% infill, support touching buildplate only, 0.2mm layer height. print speed 40mm/s and infill speed 60mm/s.
^^^^ these are the standard settings I use for PETG usually only adjusting the infill %age.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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