You may have seen this already on the metal ones sold for corded drills with a standard 43mm collar, but they show a use case with the rods projecting though the base plate, which is useful for drilling a hole centred on a piece of timber (e.g. mortice a door).
Is double sided sticky tape is the final solution ?
I found I've only ever needed two jigs , one for hard woods & one for soft , both are made from anodized Z shaped die drawn aluminium. IIRC one at 25 % and the other 30 % . As the z is used like a bench hook it's easy to use a marking knife to draw in the dovetails over divider made spacing points , once one set is cut simply use that as the template to make the dovetail angles on the other piece of wood .(I thought I'd already posted this, but perhaps not)... Anyway, a few days ago I made some saw jigs to help cut dovetails. I got a bit carried away and printed lots with all sorts of different angles:
They get held against the workpiece (behind it for a Japanese saw, in front for a Western saw) and they guide the saw:
or if you prefer a Western saw:
Once the tails are cut and the waste chopped out, the tail board is used to mark up the pin board and then the other two sides of the guide jig thing help cut the pins:
First attempt using the jig:
another one:
Link to the STLs: https://www.printables.com/model/199398-dovetail-saw-jigs-for-hand-cut-dovetails
Very nice print. What material?
Depends on what teabags you use.
Interesting , would the cam lock lever device from scrapped quick change over bicycle wheel be any good for the clamp , IRC the spindle bolt is about 160 mm long , new ones cost about £9
I noticed in a later thread some of the couplers split asunder
).
www.nasa.gov
Weld two two end to end or in a threaded sleeve so the cams are on the outside faces , I think that should give you almost 3/4 inch movement as well as ready made metal cam levers & nuts being a lot stronger than 3 D prints .
What’s a TPU?
