Sadly he is selling the finished article not the STL.
I am crossed with a Yorkshire man and a Scots man.
- Thread starter Dr.Al
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I am crossed with a Yorkshire man and a Scots man.
Onoff
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Totally ott, could have thinned it down, used less material etc. Can't be bothered thinking too much at the mo.
A DIN rail mounting holder for four, 5-way WAGOs:
Printing now in grey PLA. Fingers crossed this lightning storm going on here now doesn't take the power out.
A DIN rail mounting holder for four, 5-way WAGOs:
Printing now in grey PLA. Fingers crossed this lightning storm going on here now doesn't take the power out.
indy4x
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Turns out, if you create a model in Inventor with threads, it can't do proper threads and they won't print on a 3D printer!
Fortunately there is a plug in, and it's free that will sort the thread out in your model so it is printable
This was a test print to see if it works, cap and boss
So it works, but the tolerance is too tight for them to screw together
Will have another stab at it and see what needs tweaking to make it work
Fortunately there is a plug in, and it's free that will sort the thread out in your model so it is printable
This was a test print to see if it works, cap and boss
So it works, but the tolerance is too tight for them to screw together
Will have another stab at it and see what needs tweaking to make it work
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Whoops...this is what happens when your mind's not quite on the job!
First off the "clippy on" parts bit are full length. There's no way you can snap it on and off, you need to to slide the DIN rail into the print. Tbh I did know and was fine with that.
The main problem is that the WAGOs sit horizontal. The wires need to enter from below, I just didn't pick up on it when my lad had it on screen:
I'll have to wait until he surfaces to modify it in Fusion.
First off the "clippy on" parts bit are full length. There's no way you can snap it on and off, you need to to slide the DIN rail into the print. Tbh I did know and was fine with that.
The main problem is that the WAGOs sit horizontal. The wires need to enter from below, I just didn't pick up on it when my lad had it on screen:
I'll have to wait until he surfaces to modify it in Fusion.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Printed some threads the other week... very tight till i put a bit of lube on
Unbelivable difference
Joking aside same here, used silicone grease.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Second attempt, right way up this time. Bit of silicone grease to ease it on. That'll do and serve it's purpose, it's not coming off again. Just to bring all the pillar lamp connections together neatly and a couple of spare connections:
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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They just clip in. There's lugs/recesses on the WAGOs and mating tabs on the print.
I'll try and do a little video.
indy4x
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Yeah, I had read some advice to trim them but it's worse than that
It appears that when you create an external thread it's fine and is to spec
When you create an internal thread, it goes screwy and is about 2mm too tight
Can't seem to find much info, all the YouTubers tell you to do it the same way
indy4x
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I wish, see my other post, internal thread is off by 2mm on the dia, no amount of lube is going sort that outPrinted some threads the other week... very tight till i put a bit of lube on
Unbelivable difference
Screwdriver
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The key to printing a good working thread is to optimise your "slicing tolerance" which in Cura is middle, exclusive or inclusive.
Your 3d model is "perfect" but your layer height is granular. It has to pick "the best fit" at the boundary between being inside or outside of your manifold ((skin surface boundary). That can be somewhere in the middle of where the model says it should be (intersects the boundary), doesn't quite touch the boundary (inside) or just overlaps (outside) the boundary.
Your 3d model is "perfect" but your layer height is granular. It has to pick "the best fit" at the boundary between being inside or outside of your manifold ((skin surface boundary). That can be somewhere in the middle of where the model says it should be (intersects the boundary), doesn't quite touch the boundary (inside) or just overlaps (outside) the boundary.
slim_boy_fat
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Screwdriver
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Calibration of your printer scaling is not the issue. Most people print at 0.2mm layer height (8thou). Those layers are stepped but still have to follow a curved or sloped line and there are PLENTY of those in a thread fastener. If both male and female thread slicing tolerance are set to "medium" i.e. the physical print always overlaps the desired virtual design, then they will always intersect when you screw them together.
I would suggest you can't "scale" your way out of that issue because that will affect pitch (depending on orientation) but since it is possible, let's just say "there be dragons".
You can scale your way out, by just scaling X and Y.
Off course, whether that is a suitable solution, depends on what you're trying to achieve.
Screwdriver
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But then of course, you are scaling an entire model when it's really only the sloping/radiused parts of the thread that's the problem. Plus you have to work out what percent 0.1mm is for your model and set that in your slicer. This also assumes the thread will be vertically or horizontally aligned when for example, when printing a longer thread, you might deliberately want to print at an angle to avoid weakness in the laminations.
A vertical/horizontal surface will not be affected by altering the slicing tolerance, scaling the model will. Course you could scale it in the model - like I said, there be dragons. Much easier to simply adjust a setting.
