- Thread starter Dr.Al
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Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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Cheers... ours is a CR10S-5 but it doesn't knock out the quality you show above (the cap, not the bird's nest!
)
carbon
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The quality isn’t completely due to the printer, but the stepper drivers will make a difference.
The settings in the slicer will make a difference, if the slicer is set to print in 0.3mm layer height the print quality will not be as good as 0.1mm layer height. Also print speed can change the quality
The settings in the slicer will make a difference, if the slicer is set to print in 0.3mm layer height the print quality will not be as good as 0.1mm layer height. Also print speed can change the quality
indy4x
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For my prints I'm using pretty much Cura defaults
I usually print 0.2mm or 0.16mm layer heights
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Old age, the recent bereavement?
Sat down last night to start a Makita to Parkside adapter. as per my previous post. Got so far with it then went to bed. This moring I fired up AutoCAD to carry on but couldn't remember where I saved it. What I did find though was the previous drawing I did in April 21! I'd totally forgotten I'd even done it.
I've just remembered it got as far as the model being printed and test fitted to a Parkside hot air gun. Where the print is I have no idea?
This getting old isn't funny!
Sat down last night to start a Makita to Parkside adapter. as per my previous post. Got so far with it then went to bed. This moring I fired up AutoCAD to carry on but couldn't remember where I saved it. What I did find though was the previous drawing I did in April 21! I'd totally forgotten I'd even done it.
I've just remembered it got as far as the model being printed and test fitted to a Parkside hot air gun. Where the print is I have no idea?
This getting old isn't funny!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Idiot boy! The trial print was still in the hot air gun! For some reason the project just petered out...life I guess...mind I couldn't find the hot air gun immediately 
Damn fine fit too if I say so myself!
So...I guess I'm back on it now until the ADHD kicks in again and I get bored. The rectangular slot in the print is in the wrong place. This is for a "wedge" like on the battery that retains it on the tool. I'm not going to faff with little spring loaded wedges, just make a drop in wedge to be held in with a blob of silicone as I'll only ever use these with Makita batteries so the adapter can stay in place.
Might need to tap you up on this @Kram , this third pin business etc. If I need a resistor in there somewhere I'll look to incorporate space in the print.
I know when I put a Makita battery on a Ferrex tool (hedge trimmer) it'll only run for a couple of seconds then stop. Press the trigger and again it runs but stops.
Off to move that slot and figure battery connectors now.
Damn fine fit too if I say so myself!
So...I guess I'm back on it now until the ADHD kicks in again and I get bored. The rectangular slot in the print is in the wrong place. This is for a "wedge" like on the battery that retains it on the tool. I'm not going to faff with little spring loaded wedges, just make a drop in wedge to be held in with a blob of silicone as I'll only ever use these with Makita batteries so the adapter can stay in place.
Might need to tap you up on this @Kram , this third pin business etc. If I need a resistor in there somewhere I'll look to incorporate space in the print.
I know when I put a Makita battery on a Ferrex tool (hedge trimmer) it'll only run for a couple of seconds then stop. Press the trigger and again it runs but stops.
Off to move that slot and figure battery connectors now.
What sir needs is Everything. It indexes all your files, so you just need to take a guess at the filename. Free too
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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What sir needs is Everything. It indexes all your files, so you just need to take a guess at the filename. Free too
Thanks. However, if you have forgotten completely, that you created the file in the first place then it's not much use!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I'll carry on in this thread until such time a dedicated adaptor one appears.
Mulling battery contacts. Quite tight with the tool's battery blade spacing. I've the ones recovered from a Makita battery PCB which seem about the best so far. Also looked at forming some from 9x1 copper strip and even 13A plug contacts:
Mulling battery contacts. Quite tight with the tool's battery blade spacing. I've the ones recovered from a Makita battery PCB which seem about the best so far. Also looked at forming some from 9x1 copper strip and even 13A plug contacts:
Kram
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Sorry typed a reply and got distracted before I could post 
For the 3rd pin you can use a 10k resistor from T to negative on the tool and leave the battery 3rd pin unused.
If you can get it near the cells (if you were making up a battery case for example, not just an adaptor) a 10k NTC thermistor would give some overheat protection, but wont do anything through a layer of plastic.
If you happen to print any spares I could use oneI did start the layered abs ones but half of the layers got lost. I need to tidy the shed!
My attempt at contacts, theres a few pics of my ferrex adaptor, bent out of brass sheet.
For the 3rd pin you can use a 10k resistor from T to negative on the tool and leave the battery 3rd pin unused.
If you can get it near the cells (if you were making up a battery case for example, not just an adaptor) a 10k NTC thermistor would give some overheat protection, but wont do anything through a layer of plastic.
If you happen to print any spares I could use one
I did start the layered abs ones but half of the layers got lost. I need to tidy the shed!My attempt at contacts, theres a few pics of my ferrex adaptor, bent out of brass sheet.
New Aldi "Ferrex" cordless tool range
I don't think he comes on as much as he used do. And my impression was he was getting frustrated with his 3 D printer a little. I have the Ferrex gear and was more interested in using Ferrex batteries to power my other drills to save buying loads of new batteries but we never managed to get...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Sorry typed a reply and got distracted before I could post
For the 3rd pin you can use a 10k resistor from T to negative on the tool and leave the battery 3rd pin unused.
If you can get it near the cells (if you were making up a battery case for example, not just an adaptor) a 10k NTC thermistor would give some overheat protection, but wont do anything through a layer of plastic.
If you happen to print any spares I could use one
My attempt at contacts, theres a few pics of my ferrex adaptor, bent out of brass sheet.
New Aldi "Ferrex" cordless tool range
I don't think he comes on as much as he used do. And my impression was he was getting frustrated with his 3 D printer a little. I have the Ferrex gear and was more interested in using Ferrex batteries to power my other drills to save buying loads of new batteries but we never managed to get...www.mig-welding.co.uk
Yep, that works! Both the nibbler and hot air gun, ta.
Sorry, spare what is it you want?
Bought a couple of packs of plastic conduit from CPC some time ago - corrugated flex tube and some threaded fittings in each pack. Of course, never enough fittings so I’ve ended up with a load of leftover tube, and CPC don’t sell the fittings on their own, so…
An ordinary cable gland to fit the 20mm knockout in the fitting, plus a two part thingy and lock ring in tasteful pink - screw thread at one end to match the cable gland, and a sort of internal flange to lock the corrugated tube in place.
The ring locks the two halves together
And here it is assembled on the conduit. Yes, I know there’s a bit of a gap, but in reality it’s less than a gnats crotchet, and it isn’t going to fall apart.
The screw thread was interesting - Fusion 360 didn’t have this size in its library (it’s 20x2mm, but all the 20x2 threads in Fusion are a different size completely). I had to draw a 2mm pitch coil and use that as a path to wind a trapezoidal shape round the hole - thank goodness for google and YT!
it only took about 2 hours to draw, four hours to print four of them and it saved me having to throw away 0.75p worth of valuable plastic conduit
An ordinary cable gland to fit the 20mm knockout in the fitting, plus a two part thingy and lock ring in tasteful pink - screw thread at one end to match the cable gland, and a sort of internal flange to lock the corrugated tube in place.
The ring locks the two halves together
And here it is assembled on the conduit. Yes, I know there’s a bit of a gap, but in reality it’s less than a gnats crotchet, and it isn’t going to fall apart.
The screw thread was interesting - Fusion 360 didn’t have this size in its library (it’s 20x2mm, but all the 20x2 threads in Fusion are a different size completely). I had to draw a 2mm pitch coil and use that as a path to wind a trapezoidal shape round the hole - thank goodness for google and YT!
it only took about 2 hours to draw, four hours to print four of them and it saved me having to throw away 0.75p worth of valuable plastic conduit
ajlelectronics
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it only took about 2 hours to draw, four hours to print four of them and it saved me having to throw away 0.75p worth of valuable plastic conduit
However you now have a saleable design which I would be interested in downloading!
But then you’d have a saleable design!
seriously though, if you want the F360 file, or the gcode file from Cura I can email them to you. I could even dig out the product code from CPC for the conduit pack and cable glands if you want.
ajlelectronics
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That would be kind of you. You need to charge enough so that there is little benefit in anyone trying to sell it on. Cults3D is a good place to advertise it on. I have some free and some chargeable designs on there.
Pm an email address. Do you have a preference for the F360 file format? I seem to remember that there are lots of export options.
