- Thread starter Dr.Al
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Screwdriver
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DTI widget. The old one has been shattered and glued up several times.
The 3d print is the orange one.
Forgot I unloaded my black.
Oh well. At least I might see it before I use the flypress to launch my DTI stand into low earth orbit...
The 3d print is the orange one.
Forgot I unloaded my black.
Oh well. At least I might see it before I use the flypress to launch my DTI stand into low earth orbit...
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Playing Dad's taxi last night and I ran over a bit of branch that had come down in the road. Wasn't going fast but as I carried on it seemed a "stick" was still stuck and being dragged. It didn't clear and was making a scraping noise. Pulled over at the petrol station and there was a plastic shield hanging down along with the two fuel lines!
Drove very gingerly and stuck it on the BiLs ramp. Was pretty obvious I'd lost part of the shield. Cable tied it up then drove back out and luckily found the shield that'd come off.
Two yellow plastic trim clips are broken so after half hour on CAD by me, my lad printed a couple in grey PETG. Full infill, they don't have to be pretty! I've added radiuses here and there for strength.
I'll get it back in the ramp tonight and know if they'll fit. They fit (or not), over serrated barbs that are stud welded to the underside of the floor pan.
Wouldn't mind getting the proper clips if anyone knows the part number. I have looked.
Drove very gingerly and stuck it on the BiLs ramp. Was pretty obvious I'd lost part of the shield. Cable tied it up then drove back out and luckily found the shield that'd come off.
Two yellow plastic trim clips are broken so after half hour on CAD by me, my lad printed a couple in grey PETG. Full infill, they don't have to be pretty! I've added radiuses here and there for strength.
I'll get it back in the ramp tonight and know if they'll fit. They fit (or not), over serrated barbs that are stud welded to the underside of the floor pan.
Wouldn't mind getting the proper clips if anyone knows the part number. I have looked.
slim_boy_fat
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Now all you have to do is remember to look at the notebook.....
RWD3M
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Well, it finally happened, I did my first 3d print today!
It's not big but you know the saying, from little acorns....
Lua is my nearly 3 year old granddaughter's name as I wanted something small and easy to print for my first attempt.
I will confess, I had help from a pal who does this sort of thing on a very regular basis and learned a lot from him.
For info, the printer is a Tronxy X5S that I picked up virtually unused for £100, and used PLA because that's all I have currently. I used Tinkercad and Cura (both on recommendation) and quite like how easy they are to work with.
I do plan to get a little more adventurous and hope to print off the elusive 127 tooth change gear for my Harrison L5 sometime very soon
It's not big but you know the saying, from little acorns....
Lua is my nearly 3 year old granddaughter's name as I wanted something small and easy to print for my first attempt.
I will confess, I had help from a pal who does this sort of thing on a very regular basis and learned a lot from him.
For info, the printer is a Tronxy X5S that I picked up virtually unused for £100, and used PLA because that's all I have currently. I used Tinkercad and Cura (both on recommendation) and quite like how easy they are to work with.
I do plan to get a little more adventurous and hope to print off the elusive 127 tooth change gear for my Harrison L5 sometime very soon
Last edited:
Dr.Al
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Four of these in different sizes:
They're to give my soft jaws something to grab hold of while machining a bore in the middle for workholding. Different sizes for machining with the jaws in different positions. In the past I've done this by finding three similar sized bits of stock (either feeler gauge material or screws or various other bits and bobs), but it's a bit of a pain to try to hold them in place while tightening the jaws. For blind holes I just use the head of a cap screw gripped at the back of the jaws, but for through holes it needs something else. Hopefully this will be a bit easier anyway.
They're to give my soft jaws something to grab hold of while machining a bore in the middle for workholding. Different sizes for machining with the jaws in different positions. In the past I've done this by finding three similar sized bits of stock (either feeler gauge material or screws or various other bits and bobs), but it's a bit of a pain to try to hold them in place while tightening the jaws. For blind holes I just use the head of a cap screw gripped at the back of the jaws, but for through holes it needs something else. Hopefully this will be a bit easier anyway.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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What material?
indy4x
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PLA
indy4x
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Possibly, I did an auto arrange in Cura, didn't pay attention as to where it was on the bed
indy4x
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Printer is in the corner of our spare room/home office, no draughts and door was closed to the room, as it was a 26hr print overnight the thermostat would have switched the central heating off about 2hrs after starting the print and came back on probably 10hrs into the print
Either way I have still used it
DAPPH
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I have my printer in a home made cabinet made from a single sheeet of B&Q cut on the machine 19 mm construction ply, precisely cut to my spec's with glued & screwed edges etc amost 200 screws used at the end of the day ,,it;s heavy and very solid .
Made with a sliding Perspex door front and actually pre heat it for a couple of hours with two 7 watt CFL bulbs in fixed baton holders .
Usual air temp in the cabinet is 23 to 30 oC at the end of the preheat , monitored with a cheap digital thermometer with a hanging probe sensor.
Once the printer has preheated and got printing for a few hours the air temp usually rises & max's out at around 35 degree oC so a five hour print gets it nice and cozy in there .
The cabinet walls , double roof & three thickness of 19 mm floor with a screwed down Formica cupboard shelf for sitting the printer on all act as a radiant heat sink so unless I open the door the temp is very stable and draught free for the whole print time .
So far I've only experienced warpage. or prints splitting on ABS things that are almost solid and over 2.25 inches tall ,
I appear to have sorted that on subsequent prints by increasing the print nozzle temp by three oC to get a hotter melt on to the cooling print .
Made with a sliding Perspex door front and actually pre heat it for a couple of hours with two 7 watt CFL bulbs in fixed baton holders .
Usual air temp in the cabinet is 23 to 30 oC at the end of the preheat , monitored with a cheap digital thermometer with a hanging probe sensor.
Once the printer has preheated and got printing for a few hours the air temp usually rises & max's out at around 35 degree oC so a five hour print gets it nice and cozy in there .
The cabinet walls , double roof & three thickness of 19 mm floor with a screwed down Formica cupboard shelf for sitting the printer on all act as a radiant heat sink so unless I open the door the temp is very stable and draught free for the whole print time .
So far I've only experienced warpage. or prints splitting on ABS things that are almost solid and over 2.25 inches tall ,
I appear to have sorted that on subsequent prints by increasing the print nozzle temp by three oC to get a hotter melt on to the cooling print .
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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If printing ABS I'd want to be printing a lot taller than that, potentially to the 200mm plus height of the printer.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Marine too, I bet!
I'm not that much of a spendthrift, it's made with construction ply as it also has better thermal properties IMO. The cracks appeared about an inch and a 1quarter above the adhesion layers.
I think the cracking occurred was where the ABS was no longer was influenced by the bed heat, that's why I set the extrusion nozzle temp 3 oC higher than the ABS recommendations on the reel of filament.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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A two piece thingy to go in the top of a plastic fermenting bin. The thread on this is M35x1.5 and a surprisingly clean print:
Bung is a tad tight so opened up the (tapered) hole for the next one and made the thread M36 X 3. Done in grey PETG.
Bung is a tad tight so opened up the (tapered) hole for the next one and made the thread M36 X 3. Done in grey PETG.
