Olderisbetter
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It looks ok but the the corners started lifting, i will repeat tomorrow after cleaning the bed and giving it a IPA wipe.
- Thread starter Dr.Al
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ajlelectronics
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Don't use IPA. It is what was causing my loss of adhesion because it was leaving something behind.
If you are lucky it will have Marlin firmware.
This means you can use the tuning menu to adjust on the fly.
It's under baby steps.
If you set cura to print with a brim you get time to alter it as its printing.
It's not sensitive so you can wind away on the dial without fear of crashing the nozzle.
I use soap and water.
I do use 3Dlac but it's out of habit.
As soon as I upgraded my board to the silent one and the Marlin firmware the baby stepping is a godsend
Interesting Laura's stepping seems to react in larger steps than mine....must investigate.
Original 3DLAC was.
The current version isn't. I think it's some kind of PVA mix.
It's one of these things that you could get/make cheaper, but for all it costs and how long a tin lasts, it's not really worth the experimenting/trial and error of finding a cheaper alternative.
Screwdriver
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Hairspray is PVA and that is all that is required in my experience. I cut a hole out of an old filament box so that I can spray it directly on the bed, through the cutout while still on the machine without overspray going everywhere. The key is never to touch the bed ever with your hands and to use a thin coat every so often then just clean with water during a major service and start again. I get excellent adhesion and release...
I use L'Oreal. Because I'm worth it.
I use L'Oreal. Because I'm worth it.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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What's a good, clear lacquer, to spray this just printed fridge handle with?
This is grey PETG. Previous incarnations have been lightly infilled PLA that have delaminated and failed around the screw holes. Beefed up now at the fixing points.
It got grubby too, in the layer lines. Hence the idea to spray it.
This is grey PETG. Previous incarnations have been lightly infilled PLA that have delaminated and failed around the screw holes. Beefed up now at the fixing points.
It got grubby too, in the layer lines. Hence the idea to spray it.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I do have a new can of clear, spray lacquer here. Got it from Lidl maybe?
I was going to use it on the wood effect PLA on the B3 Wingman pistol grips of that gun my lad printed. Instead I wood stained and pu varnished them.
I wonder if I should key the PETG lightly then spray?
Dev
8th generation, Weyland type
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That only mainly helps with tramming - that the bed is the same distance from the nozzle across its whole surface - but it’s not for setting the Gap. You set it by looking at the first layer and how the traces join.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ is still a good beginners guide but don’t buy the software.
ajlelectronics
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A tool for setting Salisbury axle half shaft seals.
ChrisBailey
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Surrounds for rear lights on my project car. Just mockups for now.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Surrounds for rear lights on my project car. Just mockups for now.
There's a chap over on CapriPower who's printed the actual lenses as well.
ajlelectronics
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Miata dual throttle body cable guide...
Dr.Al
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Some jigs:
and some more jigs:
The first ones are there to hold router plane cutters / blades / irons / whatever and are based on David Charlesworth's approach. The larger size is for 3/8" / 9.5 mm square irons, although there is plenty of flex so the size isn't critical:
The angles written on top are the cutting angle (not the bevel angle, as that's less) you'll get if the guide is perfectly parallel with the stone. In practice, the angle will be a bit different as it depends on the stone height and the extension of the blade), but it just gives you a rough idea of which one will result in the Eclipse guide being roughly level.
The smaller size is for the cutter that came with my Record 722:
They only help with the bevel; but the base can easily be done with the David Charlesworth method as well (except I use a ruler where he used a piece of plastic):
... to be continued...
and some more jigs:
The first ones are there to hold router plane cutters / blades / irons / whatever and are based on David Charlesworth's approach. The larger size is for 3/8" / 9.5 mm square irons, although there is plenty of flex so the size isn't critical:
The angles written on top are the cutting angle (not the bevel angle, as that's less) you'll get if the guide is perfectly parallel with the stone. In practice, the angle will be a bit different as it depends on the stone height and the extension of the blade), but it just gives you a rough idea of which one will result in the Eclipse guide being roughly level.
The smaller size is for the cutter that came with my Record 722:
They only help with the bevel; but the base can easily be done with the David Charlesworth method as well (except I use a ruler where he used a piece of plastic):
... to be continued...
Dr.Al
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The next one is a 3D printed version of the router cutter sharpening thing I made recently. I mainly made it to see how well a 3D printed one will work (answer: very well).
... to be continued again...
... to be continued again...
