White ABS isn't as good as other colours. I can't remember the details, but Voron don't allow white as a colour option for their PIF (Print It Forward) scheme, as the compound that makes it white means it's a lot harder to get consistently strong prints.
- Thread starter Dr.Al
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As part of my ongoing workshop project finishing/tidying, I printed the first ABS part to complete my Voron.
This is just a little cover, but I'm happy with the quality, so just another couple days worth of prints to get everything else completed now :-/
This is just a little cover, but I'm happy with the quality, so just another couple days worth of prints to get everything else completed now :-/
does it have chalk in it or something like that?
I know white silicone does, which means it's not as good as the other colours
I've done loads of CCTV camera holders with white ABS and they're plenty strong... don't think there's any difference in them to the other colours I did using up end of rolls
skotl
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Today I made (well, technically, "today I finally finished after five weeks of toil...")... a surface mount solder hot plate!
Fusion 360 with a mighty 15 components:
An ESP8266 (actually a wemos d1 mini), thermistor, 250C hotplate, couple of fans, buck converter, I2C display, a relay and several hundred lines of C++ code:
Exposed guts:
And the end result!
I used ABS for the hot box and then separated the controller (made of PLA) by some standoffs and conduit. Totally over the top as it turns out, as the innards of the hotbox don't get above 30C - decent learning experience though.
The lid on the control box warped when I took it off the printer bed too soon
I should really re-print it but I'm sick of the sight of it now!
Things I learned:
1. Design the entire box on paper first, don't make it up as you go along (which ended up with me scratching my head on where I was going to put mounting sockets)
2. M3 rivnuts are the dog's danglies! So much more secure than just bolting bits of plastic together directly
3. Design-in an extra 1 or 2 or centimetres in every direction - that would have made wiring it up sooooo much easier...
Fusion 360 with a mighty 15 components:
An ESP8266 (actually a wemos d1 mini), thermistor, 250C hotplate, couple of fans, buck converter, I2C display, a relay and several hundred lines of C++ code:
Exposed guts:
And the end result!
I used ABS for the hot box and then separated the controller (made of PLA) by some standoffs and conduit. Totally over the top as it turns out, as the innards of the hotbox don't get above 30C - decent learning experience though.
The lid on the control box warped when I took it off the printer bed too soon
I should really re-print it but I'm sick of the sight of it now!Things I learned:
1. Design the entire box on paper first, don't make it up as you go along (which ended up with me scratching my head on where I was going to put mounting sockets)
2. M3 rivnuts are the dog's danglies! So much more secure than just bolting bits of plastic together directly
3. Design-in an extra 1 or 2 or centimetres in every direction - that would have made wiring it up sooooo much easier...
ajlelectronics
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skotl
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Wow! Was it constructed from lots of coloured bits or was the whole thing printed in a oner? My printer can apparently take a multi-spool (aka multi-colour) config but I don't know whether it can do that!
Edit: oh... interesting... my printer is an AnkerMake M5, which is actually what the parrot is sitting on in the picture...
ajlelectronics
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skotl
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Today I made (well, technically, "today I finally finished after five weeks of toil...")... a surface mount solder hot plate!
Fusion 360 with a mighty 15 components:
View attachment 425178
An ESP8266 (actually a wemos d1 mini), thermistor, 250C hotplate, couple of fans, buck converter, I2C display, a relay and several hundred lines of C++ code:
View attachment 425179
Exposed guts:
View attachment 425180
And the end result!
View attachment 425181
I used ABS for the hot box and then separated the controller (made of PLA) by some standoffs and conduit. Totally over the top as it turns out, as the innards of the hotbox don't get above 30C - decent learning experience though.
The lid on the control box warped when I took it off the printer bed too soon
Things I learned:
1. Design the entire box on paper first, don't make it up as you go along (which ended up with me scratching my head on where I was going to put mounting sockets)
2. M3 rivnuts are the dog's danglies! So much more secure than just bolting bits of plastic together directly
3. Design-in an extra 1 or 2 or centimetres in every direction - that would have made wiring it up sooooo much easier...
OK, this isn't 3D printing, but it is the product of the solder plate that I 3D printed!
My first ever (successful - the first two components were a mess) soldered surface-mount component:
This is it in real-life, with a standard-issue finger for size comparison:
Pretty amazed that this worked
Pfft 0603.
I made the mistake of designing something with an 0402 component once.
I now do a sanity check when selecting components, although that PCB did work, however it's not experience I want to repeat without a solder stencil, or optical enlargement.
I don't mind SMD assembly, however what annoys me is it costs me a fortune in solder paste. I do so infrequently that it pretty much costs me a new syringe of paste for every PCB :/
I made the mistake of designing something with an 0402 component once.
I now do a sanity check when selecting components, although that PCB did work, however it's not experience I want to repeat without a solder stencil, or optical enlargement.
I don't mind SMD assembly, however what annoys me is it costs me a fortune in solder paste. I do so infrequently that it pretty much costs me a new syringe of paste for every PCB :/
As I've got a few big prints needing done, I've been working on getting the workshop printers fully functional, along with remote monitoring.
Needed some lights and a camera mount for the Ender, so quick search of Thingiverse found a suitable cam mount, but lights were a bit more problematic.
Came across one setup that had a LED strip mounted to a curved holder, so copied that idea and modified it to fit the mount I wanted to use.
First iteration was a bit short, and would have sat behind the camera, so remodelled a bit taller/longer, and we have this -
Not the tidiest of wiring, but only had some fairly inflexible two core, so stripped the cores out so it's not quite so inflexible, added a two pin connector, and connected it to the RPi headers.
Just need to print the camera focus mod now, as the camera sits too near the print area for it to focus-
That isn't just the lights from the mount, as I've got the remainder of the LED strip draped across both printers, as the Voron still needs dedicated lights added.
However I can now sit in the warmth of the house and keep an eye on the printers via OctoPrint.
Needed some lights and a camera mount for the Ender, so quick search of Thingiverse found a suitable cam mount, but lights were a bit more problematic.
Came across one setup that had a LED strip mounted to a curved holder, so copied that idea and modified it to fit the mount I wanted to use.
First iteration was a bit short, and would have sat behind the camera, so remodelled a bit taller/longer, and we have this -
Not the tidiest of wiring, but only had some fairly inflexible two core, so stripped the cores out so it's not quite so inflexible, added a two pin connector, and connected it to the RPi headers.
Just need to print the camera focus mod now, as the camera sits too near the print area for it to focus-
That isn't just the lights from the mount, as I've got the remainder of the LED strip draped across both printers, as the Voron still needs dedicated lights added.
However I can now sit in the warmth of the house and keep an eye on the printers via OctoPrint.
I think this is what you call making full use of the filament 
I've been using up ends of reels to make storage containers to tame my fastener collection, and I fully expected this reel to run out as I had selected the wrong file (only meant to print a single item, but selected the double).
Anyway, turns out the filament didn't run out, so I now have 4 of iteration 6 of my storage containers.
I've been using up ends of reels to make storage containers to tame my fastener collection, and I fully expected this reel to run out as I had selected the wrong file (only meant to print a single item, but selected the double).
Anyway, turns out the filament didn't run out, so I now have 4 of iteration 6 of my storage containers.
How did you get the pitch etc?
I tried to print one for my Bridgeport power feed.
I used ABS Pro and it printed out awesome.
Sadly it was the wrong amount of teeth and I did not have a clue how to adjust it.
MattF
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What software have you used for creating those?
There are various bits of software. I cheated though. Found a nice chap had already posted the files.How did you get the pitch etc?
I tried to print one for my Bridgeport power feed.
I used ABS Pro and it printed out awesome.
Sadly it was the wrong amount of teeth and I did not have a clue how to adjust it.
2 sizes missing though so will have to get the calculator up and running. Will let you know the solution.
I cheated found the files online.
julianthegypsy
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Gear dxf is free online and will generate a 2d dxf for any spur gear, then I imagine you just pull it into 3d. There are any number of alternatives too but I used that one to generate a file for @cheb to make a backgear for a meddings drill and it was very simple and effective.
