Screwdriver
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Incredibly it works but due to issues with scale, is not ever going to be sturdy enough.
Needs a redesign.
Needs a redesign.
Would you share the .stl file please? I would like to print it if only as a wall hanger!Incredibly it works but due to issues with scale, is not ever going to be sturdy enough.
Needs a redesign.
Spacer, to space thin items away from the chuck body so they can be machined
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You might need to know the width of your jaws to ensure a decent fit.Neat job! Can I be cheeky and ask if you'd be prepared to print one off for me, I sometimes need to hold short work-pieces in the lathe [Myford ML7] and it's tricky getting them held in the right plane.
Happy to cover post and add beer tokens if so. I'd love a 3D printer but don't have the space [or the knowledge of designing for that matter] for one.
You might need to know the width of your jaws to ensure a decent fit.
have you posted the file anywhere or did you get it of a site??Spacer, to space thin items away from the chuck body so they can be machined
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It's why I have a 3D printer, just in case.......Timing belt snapped on my engine so I designed another in F360 and 3D printed....
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Can you scale XYZ axis independently in your slicer ? A bit of a long winded way of doing it but it may help with the 4mm thickness becoming 2mm, scale Z = 200% or whatever notation the slicer uses.The "problem" is rather more embarrassing. Sketchup is an architectural drawing program, I get around the issues with circles/curves (and gears!) by making the model at scale, often 100:1. The propgram is not parametric, more like 3d vector so once a dimension is made any calculation is lost. Thanks to that pesky Pi being so confoundedly irrational, errors creep in. Models can literally blow themselves apart!
Digression: what Sketchup is absolutely brilliant at is quickly sketching out ideas. You're drawing in 3d and manipulating the object until it "looks" right. If it looks right, it probably is right. Other programs like Fusion assume you know what you want when what I really need is to quickly flit between shapes and structures until I see something I like.
On this occasion I made a simple mistake very early on, most likely confusing a radius with a diameter and the model was scaled to 200x which I only discovered when I exported the STL. The proportions are ok but scaling it down mean the chunky 4mm base was now only 2mm. All of my clearances were halved plus I went a bit tight everywhere with 0.2mm/0.1mm (which became interference fits at the stupily small scale it ended up.
I thought my generous 16mm small spur gears would be perfect for the ~100mm diameter model but in reality, they were 8mm...
Don't get me wrong, the X1 did a magnificent job printing this out but if I had known it would be so minuscule, I would have changed tack. The press fit fixings for the shell bearing/retainer were always going to be impossibly tight, then they ended up half that size!
Incredibly, they did sort of work. The loose fit (!) allows the gear ring to rotate while the small lip keeps it captive and the overhang retains the gear ring etc. But at that scale, surface imperfections are greater than the size of the feature!
Hence my amazement it worked at all....
Can you scale XYZ axis independently in your slicer ? A bit of a long winded way of doing it but it may help with the 4mm thickness becoming 2mm, scale Z = 200% or whatever notation the slicer uses.
How do you create the patterned finish on the faces?Version2.
Lot more better.
Fun part will be colouring it in. I am still trying to come up with a way to give the hands the classic watch look but I dare not design in support requirements, it's way too small for any sort of support so the hour hand in particular is still flat and lifeless.
Next step, add some numbers, hours and/or minutes, 1/4 past 1/2 past etc. Might even make it so the "face" can be swapped and the mechanism is free enough I might put on a geared drive so it can really spin!
How do you create the patterned finish on the faces?