- Thread starter Dr.Al
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zx9
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Cool, what are they? They look like lens mount flanges but could be anything bayonet mount ish.
Hi folks, finally decided to get a printer and after reading this whole thread start to finish i will show my first effort of copying a design and going through to a print.
Id done a couple of bits before which weren’t my design to check printer and setting etc. its a 2nd hand Creality CR-10V3.
Personally this journey is a method to learn the CAD drawing to give my tinkering a bit more panache and stop hours of wasted fettling by hopefully getting things right at the design stage.
Sorry to waffle here goes. A plastic clip for my caravan shelf copied from original and i later extended them a bit (very easy with onshape) for a better fit to stop associated shelves skipping off.
Id done a couple of bits before which weren’t my design to check printer and setting etc. its a 2nd hand Creality CR-10V3.
Personally this journey is a method to learn the CAD drawing to give my tinkering a bit more panache and stop hours of wasted fettling by hopefully getting things right at the design stage.
Sorry to waffle here goes. A plastic clip for my caravan shelf copied from original and i later extended them a bit (very easy with onshape) for a better fit to stop associated shelves skipping off.
Screwdriver
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Good first attempt if you ask me. Looking at it though, I would suggest you print it in the orientation shown above so that your layer lines don't leave it so weak. Another option would be to experiment with printing it with the boss pointing up at 45 degrees .
Dr.Al
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A very simple measuring jug with a small lip at the height to which it should be filled.
I made this for mixing up my favourite wood finish ("Mike's Magic Mix": equal parts satin varnish, white spirit and pure tung oil) - I use a litre bottle to hold it, so I figured that a 300 ml measuring jug would be handy for mixing it up (the extra 100 ml in the litre bottle allows for a bit leftover from the last batch).
I tested it by zeroing the scales with the jug on and then filling it with water to the line. 299 g - that's good enough for me!
I made it with fairly thick (3 mm) walls as I have a habit of dropping things in the workshop and I figured it might make it more likely to survive.
I made this for mixing up my favourite wood finish ("Mike's Magic Mix": equal parts satin varnish, white spirit and pure tung oil) - I use a litre bottle to hold it, so I figured that a 300 ml measuring jug would be handy for mixing it up (the extra 100 ml in the litre bottle allows for a bit leftover from the last batch).
I tested it by zeroing the scales with the jug on and then filling it with water to the line. 299 g - that's good enough for me!
I made it with fairly thick (3 mm) walls as I have a habit of dropping things in the workshop and I figured it might make it more likely to survive.
Yeah ive got the hang of the slicer now and i was worried too much about the form of the dowl part but that didnt really matter in the end.
Im loving the whole concept here
Thanks
My Old Landy
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Welcome to the club, fun times ahead!
Drew something for one of my lafuma folding deck chairs. All went well with drawing up with Onshape and only realised id lost a dimension once it had printed. Next to old one you csn see its come up short. Oh well i’ll check it fits and make the adjustments. It was skipping about abit as i was figuring it out
Screwdriver
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Saw something like this on some crazy boffins robotics website and decided I want one. This version is 200mm diameter so a decent 8 inch high strength, low slop bearing. Currently destined to become a sort of lazy Susan but it is massively over engineered for the task (unless I need to stand on it).
My seat of the pants guesstimate is it should be good for 50-100kg load bearing. Printing now, soon find out.
<edit> for the record, you can find it here: https://www.youtube.com/@Skyentific
My seat of the pants guesstimate is it should be good for 50-100kg load bearing. Printing now, soon find out.
<edit> for the record, you can find it here: https://www.youtube.com/@Skyentific
Screwdriver
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Wow! Gotta be happy with that!
Only 20 bearings out of the 38 needed because that would take me deep into the morning before I'd find out. I will sleep well knowing it actually works. Amazingly smooth and tight with only half the required bearings though i did shuffle them around to make sure they fit the diagonal.
Now all I have to do if is find a good use for it. Having looked at robotic arms, I am not even mildly tempted to dip my toe in that water. Gimmee rocket science any day of the week, that robot stuff looks hard! Though I guess I could get some AI or other to tell me how to do it...
Only 20 bearings out of the 38 needed because that would take me deep into the morning before I'd find out. I will sleep well knowing it actually works. Amazingly smooth and tight with only half the required bearings though i did shuffle them around to make sure they fit the diagonal.
Now all I have to do if is find a good use for it. Having looked at robotic arms, I am not even mildly tempted to dip my toe in that water. Gimmee rocket science any day of the week, that robot stuff looks hard! Though I guess I could get some AI or other to tell me how to do it...
Screwdriver
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Unsurprisingly, it works. The only real surprise for me is that it (sort of works) so well despite this being the first iteration of basically a seat of the pants guess for dimensions off a YouTube video.
I can stand on the thing (with an intervening wooden board) and spin on it. So it will make a very useable lazy Susan, possibly for the workshop where I can use it to rotate heavy objects on the workbench. It's the large diameter of course which makes it useful since it will provide a very stable platform over a large distance from the pivot. I could happily plonk a bike engine on it for example.
Issues: I can only fit 37 out of the 38 rollers in it. The last space is only about a 9mm gap for a 13.5mm roller.
I am suffering from dimension creep and multiple (x38) compounding scale errors. PETG will shrink by up to 0.5% which I ignore of course but is critical in this appplication where some level of precision is absolutely required. Also, I am pretty sure those rollers shouldn't quite be that fat! Again, a typical and well known issue with print dimensions I chose to ignore.
So if I made one again, I'd dial in the printer (which I should do anyway) to get my dimensions bang on the money. Something I have never done despite knowing I really ought to set the thing up and maintain a library of known good profiles.
The other issue is to remake it I'd need to faff about in Sketchup with scaling and clearances to resize it rather than tweak a parametric model for any changes to automatically ripple through the design. Just too damned lazy really because in may ways, the method I use (look at a picture, sketch it out by eye) is a very effective process if you want something that looks right. Now I am beginning to concentrate on mechanisms and precision engineering projects like watch and clock mechanisms (!) it is time to up my game. Fusion 360 here I come....
<edit> the rollers should be 13.35mm in the middle, they measure 13.40/.45 ish which is extraordinarily close all things considered. But a 0.1mm error x38 is circa 4mm. A half a percent error in diameter over the 200mm of this large item is 1 full mm which again would give me a whopping 3 (and a bit) mm error in circumference! Time to get more serious with the metrology of this hobby methinks....
I can stand on the thing (with an intervening wooden board) and spin on it. So it will make a very useable lazy Susan, possibly for the workshop where I can use it to rotate heavy objects on the workbench. It's the large diameter of course which makes it useful since it will provide a very stable platform over a large distance from the pivot. I could happily plonk a bike engine on it for example.
Issues: I can only fit 37 out of the 38 rollers in it. The last space is only about a 9mm gap for a 13.5mm roller.
I am suffering from dimension creep and multiple (x38) compounding scale errors. PETG will shrink by up to 0.5% which I ignore of course but is critical in this appplication where some level of precision is absolutely required. Also, I am pretty sure those rollers shouldn't quite be that fat! Again, a typical and well known issue with print dimensions I chose to ignore.
So if I made one again, I'd dial in the printer (which I should do anyway) to get my dimensions bang on the money. Something I have never done despite knowing I really ought to set the thing up and maintain a library of known good profiles.
The other issue is to remake it I'd need to faff about in Sketchup with scaling and clearances to resize it rather than tweak a parametric model for any changes to automatically ripple through the design. Just too damned lazy really because in may ways, the method I use (look at a picture, sketch it out by eye) is a very effective process if you want something that looks right. Now I am beginning to concentrate on mechanisms and precision engineering projects like watch and clock mechanisms (!) it is time to up my game. Fusion 360 here I come....
<edit> the rollers should be 13.35mm in the middle, they measure 13.40/.45 ish which is extraordinarily close all things considered. But a 0.1mm error x38 is circa 4mm. A half a percent error in diameter over the 200mm of this large item is 1 full mm which again would give me a whopping 3 (and a bit) mm error in circumference! Time to get more serious with the metrology of this hobby methinks....
iNf
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Screwdriver
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Welding turntable?
More seriously rotating tool organiser ?
Yes, the plus side is that since it's just sitting inside a simple to use 3d program, I can tack on any bit's and bobs, mounting points, bracketry etc at my whim. The addition of a simple differential drive gear would make it an ideal candidate for a cheap and accurate welding positioner. Like I say, not only is this type of bearing (cross cylinder slew bearing) strong and tight, even a 3d printed version is very smooth in operation, hence its use in robotics.
Anyone who has designed or made a welding positioner will know the trick is to get some sort of robust gear reduction made up which in the world of metal is a world of pain. Plus the workpiece will put a huge amount of strain on a small diameter pivot.
Careful design and this could easily become the basis for a very strong bending device. Wouldn't that be an eye opener; bending rebar with a 3d printed linkage!
My Old Landy
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That's a great solution
dieselsamurai
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Just printed wheel for the Bridgeport came out spot on
What part does that fit and did you design it yourself?
dieselsamurai
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Quill fine downfeed , no I was going to do it but found one online much easier
