Richard.
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OA is way better than tig for distortion reducing. The localised heat from tig makes distortion far worse
- Thread starter frank horton
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Richard.
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Same filler silicon bronze applied to a lap joint in brass.
Now I’m way out of practice here first attempt was even worse
Colour match is very nice mind.
The trick here is not to get things flowing and not to get things too hot. No easy task on a metal that sucks your heat away quick as a flash. Watch out for the zinc fumes. Extract if your joining brass.
Now I’m way out of practice here first attempt was even worse
Colour match is very nice mind.
The trick here is not to get things flowing and not to get things too hot. No easy task on a metal that sucks your heat away quick as a flash. Watch out for the zinc fumes. Extract if your joining brass.
Richard.
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You can tig bronze weld them but remember it’s a different filler to OA bronze welding. I’ve not done much in the way of OA bronze welding and it was quite some time ago but generally I preferred it to tig. Less local and more control over the flow of the filler. Good tig brazers can achieve standards as beautiful on frame work as you see done with gas.
chevy2
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The only rods i've ever used for tig brazing are Sif 968,
They were recommended by a a very reputable race car shop,
They also carry out testing and certification of safety components so when they advised of that flavour of rod i took notice,
For the record i've only used them for mild steel onto steel or 4130,
One thing i have found is not to tig braze on anything critical as the weld strength is far lower steel than a steel filler and occaisionally cracks.
They were recommended by a a very reputable race car shop,
They also carry out testing and certification of safety components so when they advised of that flavour of rod i took notice,
For the record i've only used them for mild steel onto steel or 4130,
One thing i have found is not to tig braze on anything critical as the weld strength is far lower steel than a steel filler and occaisionally cracks.
Richard.
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I’m quite enjoying messing around with this filler and process. It’s new to me too really as very very rare I adopt it in real life jobs. I don’t build fancy frames although I’ve used it modify a couple in the past. So I thought I’d knock up a typical joint common on any tubular frame and chose to tig braze it. 1.5mm gloss painted seamless tube off cuts is all I had so I coped a prep and spun it nice and clean in the lathe and brazed a typical frame right angled joint. It’s a nice process once you get out of the “welding” state of mind.
Richard.
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Esab tigrod 19.30. Copper based with 3% si. It’s a fantastic consumable.
Richard.
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Cheers mate. It flows nicely. Not as nice as OA but not far off.Don't worry Richard, a bit more practice and you will soon get the hang of it
Obviously I am only joking, looks great
Richard.
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Pm me about consumables if you fancy a go I’ll send you a few to re pay the favour.Certainly a beautiful job, might have to give it a go myself one of these days, unlikely to be posting pics though
.
Hood
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Nah, no way, I know a trap when I see one. I will be getting nagged to post pics of the results
Richard.
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Dunno what your worried about. Give it a few trial runs to get out the welding mindset and it’s fine.Nah, no way, I know a trap when I see one. I will be getting nagged to post pics of the results
Richard.
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Nick em off google imagesNah, no way, I know a trap when I see one. I will be getting nagged to post pics of the results
Hood
I am obsessed.
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Richard.
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No problem.
Usual no 7 cup I use for everything.
2.4 tungsten because I was being lazy I wouldn’t normally use that for low current.
55 amps.
1.5mm tube.
Typical dc tungsten prep with a little more protruding to see in the joint corner.
Arc length was ever so slightly increased over the usual welding tight arc I’d adopt.
