'Tis the season to be decking...

[Screwdriver]

Once the structure is up in place I can think about cosmetics. The scaff planks are consumable/disposable/reusable items. The only permanent feature are the five fence post supports and if I really feel it necessary, I could do some fancy joinery.

Meanwhile, back in the real world...

TurboCoach Hex Flange Self-Drilling Coach Screws M8 x 100mm 50 Pack

They are self drilling but I prefer to pre drill a bit anyway. The sheer strength of those fixings will compensate for the lack of structural joinery, remembering the entire floor is going to be a solid bed of inch and a half scaff board.

Both of the end posts are concreted in place which gives me a good datum to finish the rest. I have removed those damned spikes which were pf course, super dangerous to be working around. I won't be doing that again.

 

[Screwdriver]

Not lapping the horizontals into the uprights then?

Or dog washers at least?

I used offset brackets just to be certain...not liking the back screwed into the end grain but it's not finished yet I'm thinking so may there will be a corner brace/bracket?

I see what you're saying. I'm not a huge fan of that method either but it was the easiest solution given the proximity to the immovable concrete steps on one end and a wall on the other. I'll look up "dog washers" I guess and there is plenty of access inside for some judicious bracketry.

I needed to get this done and at some stage I just have to commit. Plenty of time to take on board any further suggestions though.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

You could brace it from underneath maybe with a brace across the back wall...but as you say it needs the room!

I did all mine with timberlok screws...the shear strength is incredible on them...I think they're hardened steel or something.

 

[Onoff]

I'll look up "dog washers"

Dogtooth washers is the proper name:

Double Sided Timber Connector

• For bolted timber connections• 1mm thick galvanised steel

www.toolstation.com

Only thing is you sometimes need longer bolts or a bit of studding to close everything up. If you use long bolts they can look too long once done.

 

[dobbslc]

Mind your fingers ^ nasty things!

 

[Screwdriver]

Not seeing any great benefit in this application. I'll stick with those big self tapping flange bolts I think. I will incorporate some brackets inside/underneath the structure and maybe a couple of dirty big straps for a solid vice mounting.

Meanwhile, I have been struggling in this heat. The dirt is heavily compacted and infested with flint pebbles. About a foot down it turns into beautiful clay and I now have two solid posts to line up off.

Makes setting up the next post a breeze. Getting the first ones in exactly the right spot, vertical in XY and at the right Z height was a right chore. Now I can just clip it into place for the last few adjustments.

Next two went in in no time!

Happy with the result.

This is just to remind me where my ethernet cable is buried; encased in a hosepipe, I still wouldn't want to stab a spike into it.

There it is gone.

Deck structure should be done tomorrow.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Mine is 4m wide by 3m deep (hung on house + 2 rows of posts)....I was a bit worried about the post end (didn't want it flapping about) so I doubled the joists (front and back of the posts). The thinking was to reduce the load on the fasteners.

Reckon I over engineered it but it's still standing!

 

[Screwdriver]

I have to double up to have a joist under the ends of the longer scaff planks.

I may have to do something with the raw ends of the planks. At the very least they will need to be sanded smooth and I'll be running a router around all the edges.

 

[Onoff]

Do a mitre joint on that corner by the step then route with a R1/2" bit. The ends won't be seen / exposed.

Good luck doubling up the other end by that stock wall, do you have room between the upright and the wall?

 

[Screwdriver]

I would only be able to mitre the lower 4x2 structure. Too much effort for a minor gain so the joist coming out from the wall is the only exposed end grain.

The scaffold plank deck is the part I am suggesting has an issue with "exposed" end grain but again that is only the very last short cross piece and if I mitre that, I lose a foot of decking. Currently, the deck is the exact length of the planks I have 3900mm or "13 foot".

I will have to remove the end banding because I simply don't trust it to last any length of time and it would probably interfere with fit, plus it would be another water trap and make keeping it clean a nightmare. I assume the ends are banded to prevent splitting and damage from transport but since I will be fixing them with deck screws that shouldn't be a problem in itself.

They have a 5mm gap all round but since the ends are supported on a joist, there's a sort of water/dirt trap where anything that falls into the gap can collect.

That is the "exposed" end I am concerned about. I could turn the joist 90 degrees to keep any screws away from the very ends of the planks but I still have the problem of dirt collecting in the gap instead of just falling through. I may not even screw the very ends down at that point. They are unlikely to bend and I can always fix with brackets from underneath if they are too loose.

<edit> PS you're dead right about the other end being a tight fit to the wall. That part of the wall was infested with ivy has expanded, bowed and is a mile out of square! It all just fits though due to some judicious framing (where the rear wall mounted long beam is "inside" the end joist). It gives me a slight overhang so I can use a joist hanger and the other end of the joist can be screwed through the front of the long beam.

 

[Onoff]

What I meant:

 

[Screwdriver]

Yeah, lose a foot off the length...

 

[Onoff]

How about shallow felt roof under the deck to keep the rain off any stored gear?

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

I did EPDM...I loose laid it over the joists and directed the runoff to a gutter. Mainly done to protect the joists + keep the storage area dry.

 

[Onoff]

I did EPDM...I loose laid it over the joists and directed the runoff to a gutter. Mainly done to protect the joists + keep the storage area dry.

Yeah, I was thinking gap, full flat roof, IBC containers for rainwater storage...

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Not a great pic...the EPDM was looped and directed to a gutter/drain. Does keep the storage dry...also the joists are looking great considering this is 7+ years old.

 

[Screwdriver]

I am thinking about an under roof but needs to have an air gap.

Also need to sort out doors first or I'll end up with a family of foxes!

I would lean towards a large sealed box sort of storage but I am keen to develop the workbench side of things more than just having another place to hoard...

 

[Screwdriver]

Crikey, it's a hot one. Ironic really to be making a sun spot when the last place I want to be right now is out in the sun!

Finally though I get to install the giant banana.

What a chore. Single screw in the middle and estimate the movement at the ends so they reach the right spot when straight. Multitude of Bessy clamps and angled props to push the eds up. But5 it's in, it's straight and annoyingly, 2mm short one end, 2mm long the other.

Oh well, guess I'll give the deck a tiny overhang after all. Would be nice if it was flush at the front for workbench duty.

This is the troublesome corner I was talking about earlier.

Had to use a joist hanger, so needed a bit of room. Wall runs out of square into the deck so the ends have to be screwed into the grain (sorry).

Happy with the result though. 3mm of fall to the front, same to the side, just enough that it isn't going the wrong way. It is massively overengineered though and very sturdy. You can tell just by standing on it. Those two unsupported end pieces have a really nice bounce to them. Like a wrestling ring.

They are also badly cupped (which is why I chose that one to cut up). I'm hoping they might unbend in the sun which I believe is an old carpenters trick.

Cuppatea and a light lunch then I'll just need to fit some joists.

Now don't shoot me but I am probably going try it with one joist per post. That's just under a 1m span on boards rated for 1200mm span. I am reminded the last lot were only stuck on three posts, easily 1.5m span and they lasted for 20 years.

 

[cheb]

If you are worried about screwing into end grain then cross drill it and glue in a hardwood dowel.. Or over bore the hole and glue in a longer hardwood dowel.

 

[Screwdriver]

It's ok, I'm over it. Those screw bolts are awesome, it's not going anywhere.

Meanwhile I did all the joists but immediately covered it up with decking...

Couldn't wait to try it. it has issues, mostly relating to severe bends (banana) and one bad twist (Pringles). I can pull some out with the decking screws and a bit of handplaning. Most of this evening was spent pulling these out.

Using nothing but this:

Horrible, dangerous work. Anyway, it's done. I rejigged the layout to optimise the bends iyswim.

So tomorrow I'll rout the edges which should help a bit with the sight lines (or make things much worse! ) flood the scaff boards with some sort of sealer and screw them down. I love it as a space and it's a great workbench. All that lovely room!