How does bi-wiring work? Wouldn't you need an external crossover?
Yesterday I stopped by a charity recycling place called " Too Good To Waste " where I got a New two basin sink, six used plastic organizer boxes with four drawers in each, and a Laurel & Hardy boxed DVD set; all for £30.00, then went to Lidl and acquired three pair of tool holders for my roll cab at £2.99 for each pair, which was half price. Even though the sink was missing the attachment clips, it was a bargain at £20.00
MAJOR bargain haul there!!!
I see, so one input has a high pass filter and connects to the tweeter and the other has a low pass filter connected to the woofer. I was imagining the connectors went straight through to the drivers and you needed a separate crossover between the amp and the speakers (Or perhaps an active crossover before a pair of amps), that struck me as more audiophile (And expensive ).Most speakers are bi-wired so that they can be bi-amped. Use a decent (smaller wattage) amp for treble and a bigger (lots of watts!) amp for the woofer. Small HF speakers don't need a lot of current to drive them, a big woofer does. There is also some merit in using a different type of wire for high frequency audio and low. Both approaches will need some sort of filter or "crossover" circuit to feed the correct range of frequencies to the appropriate speaker, though in actuality, the more important requirement is NOT to drive a treble speaker with a ton of low frequency signal (and v.v.).
I see, so one input has a high pass filter and connects to the tweeter and the other has a low pass filter connected to the woofer. I was imagining the connectors went straight through to the drivers and you needed a separate crossover between the amp and the speakers (Or perhaps an active crossover before a pair of amps), that struck me as more audiophile (And expensive ).
I've been looking at speakers and amps a lot recently, I had my Sonos stolen and need something to replace it. I had been considering an amp/dac board for a Raspberry Pi and a pair of speakers off eBay, but... I've got a 15" Wharfedale driver under my bed waiting for a cabinet, so maybe a DAC+DSP board with two extra output channels and software defined crossover for the big woofer, then I just need some amps. Oh how easily I get carried away.
If you want active look at this https://www.minidsp.com/
However at home with decent cabinets and placements then I prefer passive crossovers
I have won sound quality competitions in car audio, 4 way active front end plus sub gets complicated quickly, lots of amps and cables plus needing the processor to control it all
I’ve got the minidsp running my large sound in the barn. Was a bit of a faff setting up as it involved the use of a computer.
But now I’ve got my head round it, it’s an awesome bit of kit.
Highly recommended if anyone’s looking for a fully active set up
I had the 8x8 in my last install, still had to wire the sub straight to the head unit
Yesterday I stopped by a charity recycling place called " Too Good To Waste " where I got a New two basin sink, six used plastic organizer boxes with four drawers in each, and a Laurel & Hardy boxed DVD set; all for £30.00, then went to Lidl and acquired three pair of tool holders for my roll cab at £2.99 for each pair, which was half price. Even though the sink was missing the attachment clips, it was a bargain at £20.00
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I see, so one input has a high pass filter and connects to the tweeter and the other has a low pass filter connected to the woofer. I was imagining the connectors went straight through to the drivers and you needed a separate crossover between the amp and the speakers (Or perhaps an active crossover before a pair of amps), that struck me as more audiophile (And expensive ).
I've been looking at speakers and amps a lot recently, I had my Sonos stolen and need something to replace it. I had been considering an amp/dac board for a Raspberry Pi and a pair of speakers off eBay, but... I've got a 15" Wharfedale driver under my bed waiting for a cabinet, so maybe a DAC+DSP board with two extra output channels and software defined crossover for the big woofer, then I just need some amps. Oh how easily I get carried away.
Mike put kitchen sink securing clips into your serch engine to see if you can find the right clips … there is a lot available for around £10 per sink installationpack
You might find that ikea customer services can source you some: and probably free (if they came as part of the sink pack, rather than as an extra).Thank You, I'll have a look.
I think i got spare clips from Ikea and my mate who fits kitchens used to just dump all the left overs in a bag at my house so i used to have plenty of sparesI would have though all ikea sinks would use the same clips
I have to buy an adapter to use some Hitachi tools with parkside batteries
Found on eBay it's a 3D printed base you have to solder wires and screw it in placeIf you find one let me know, I use all hitachi 18v push in & the newer slide on battery type & the new batteries are expensive.
But I have a few parkside 18v li-ion batteries bought when they were on offer gathering dust, I would like to use them for something!