Today I acquired...........

[25.4_mechanic]

I also received a new logic probe a couple of days ago. It's ok, doesn't seem to work on my wife, but will do.

Sorry the laughing emoji it's for

I also felt a bit guilty after my laugh emoji in response to @MikeBB1970's post, although Ὄμικρον is not actually a funny thing -

- But the logic tester on his wife was just too good, I could not resist

Carsten

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[GRW]

That's why I think I can find out something about the motor for you, I know someone with original knowledge I could ask and it's easy for me to read the original technical documentation.

Anyone who does a lot with engines now has a digital boroscope, ask around.
Your tests were correct and important, but not enough.
You need to know what it looks like inside.

Many of the Chinese ebay-dealers of these boroscopes offer a return period, you have nothing more to lose than return postage at most.


Carsten

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Carsten,
Here's the pics of the data plates.
I have found that the motor and bearings seem spot on - the pulley is a loose fit but I sorted that.
It's now running nicely with the start and stop working (cuts in at just under 100psi and off at 145psi at the moment), new oil etc.
I do need a new air filter but overall I'm very pleased so far with how it runs.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Here's the pics of the data plates.
I have found that the motor and bearings seem spot on - the pulley is a loose fit but I sorted that.
It's now running nicely with the start and stop working (cuts in at just under 100psi and off at 145psi at the moment), new oil etc.
I do need a new air filter but overall I'm very pleased so far with how it runs.

You hit the bull's eye, at least as far as the motor is concerned:
An impressive piece of GDR technology, designed for eternity - because there was a shortage of materials, things had to last.

The manufacturer of your motor is one of the rare exceptions of GDR-companies that were not liquidated (abgewickelt = "unwound") in the course of German unification, but continued in its area of expertise as EMG and made competitive through modernization.

Your motor formula 90LX4 still exists and is the top model in every category in which it appears.

A very, very informative bilingual brochure of the manufacturer with a bit of history can be found here.

For the other components of the overall engine, others should now enter here, the motor in any case can still serve your great-grandchildren. Congratulations!


Carsten

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[GRW]

You hit the bull's eye, at least as far as the motor is concerned:
An impressive piece of GDR technology, designed for eternity - because there was a shortage of materials, things had to last.

The manufacturer of your motor is one of the rare exceptions of GDR-companies that were not liquidated (abgewickelt = "unwound") in the course of German unification, but continued in its area of expertise as EMG and made competitive through modernization.

Your motor formula 90LX4 still exists and is the top model in every category in which it appears.

A very, very informative bilingual brochure of the manufacturer with a bit of history can be found here.

For the other components of the overall engine, others should now enter here, the motor in any case can still serve your great-grandchildren. Congratulations!


Carsten

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Wow! Thank you for that info Carsten. It really does look like I've got lucky with this motor .
The EB range with the 90LX4 in the info you sent is I noted now rated at 2.2kw, where mine is 1.5kw. The current units might well be the same windings, case etc as my much older unit, just refined so they can push the output higher I'm guessing (as that seems pretty common practice to eke more performance and push the design harder over time).

I'm happy with that! Thanks again - it's nice to see some good news first thing in the morning

 

[Cuthy246]

Yesterday a nice wooden box arrived:

View attachment 327975

This is what's inside

View attachment 327976

A bit of furniture polish and some ACF50 on any bits going rusty.
My best buy of the week

We have a Moore and Wright set at work that is identical to that.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Here's the pics of the data plates.

With your Danfoss pressure control switch you are not badly served either, they usually get quite old - at least the old ones ...

You said in the meantime it works again?!? Good!

You won't be surprised that the type you have is obsolete, but here you can find something about the possible successor.

And here you can find something about the construction and function of a very similar part.

The beauty of your current pressure switch is that it is a three-phase switch, but you only have to switch one phase.
So if after about 400,000 switching operations - for which it is designed - the currently used contact pair is burnt out , you should be able to switch to one of the two other contact pairs . Nice!

To you and all a successful week

Carsten

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[GRW]

With your Danfoss pressure control switch you are not badly served either, they usually get quite old - at least the old ones ...

You said in the meantime it works again?!? Good!

You won't be surprised that the type you have is obsolete, but here you can find something about the possible successor.

And here you can find something about the construction and function of a very similar part.

The beauty of your current pressure switch is that it is a three-phase switch, but you only have to switch one phase.
So if after about 400,000 switching operations - for which it is designed - the currently used contact pair is burnt out , you should be able to switch to one of the two other contact pairs . Nice!

To you and all a successful week

Carsten

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I continuity tested all 3 contact pairs (as you say only 1 is used pn my 1ph), so yes, I have 2 spares .
Fit an on/off override switch to go in place of the kaput one on the Danfoss body... and it'll all work correctly.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Fit an on/off override switch to go in place of the kaput one on the Danfoss body... and it'll all work correctly.

I assume that's what you meant, but just to be sure:

If you replaced the built-in switch by paralleling it or removing it altogether,
then OFF = off altogether, compressor is de-energized,
and it's ON = Automatic pressure on/off.

Is that correct?

You didn't bypass the whole pressure switch with an on-off switch and the compressor would have the possibility to run dead or worse
if you forget it or fall over next to it, right???


Carsten

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[GRW]

I assume that's what you meant, but just to be sure:

If you replaced the built-in switch by paralleling it or removing it altogether,
then OFF = off altogether, compressor is de-energized,
and it's ON = Automatic pressure on/off.

Is that correct?

You didn't bypass the whole pressure switch with an on-off switch and the compressor would have the possibility to run dead or worse
if you forget it or fall over next to it, right???


Carsten

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Yes - I meant a switch to be able to turn the motor off (or back on), with On meaning the automatic refill and cutoff managed by the Danfoss are operational.
In other words, so I can choose to stop the compressor from running to a full fill/recharge at any point manually should I need/wish to - then re-establish the motor feed so it will then charge the receiver and automatically swith off and on as needed

 

[MattF]

A box, (in need of some attention), with contents.









Everything is sticky, movement wise, so the contents needs some attention too. The Baty gauge should make a good starting point for some practice in servicing these gauges.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Everything is sticky, movement wise

In the instructions for these dial indicators I have already read several times: "Do not oil" - so I do not.
Although I do not know the reason for this for sure.

However, I have also never had to make a heavy dial gauge movable again .....

In light of what was said, I would probably try something quickly evaporating first, methyl ether or some other alcohol perhaps ...

Does anyone know why you shouldn't go after it with oil?

Carsten

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[JMS1972]

In the instructions for these dial indicators I have already read several times: "Do not oil" - so I do not.
Although I do not know the reason for this for sure.

However, I have also never had to make a heavy dial gauge movable again .....

In light of what was said, I would probably try something quickly evaporating first, methyl ether or some other alcohol perhaps ...

Does anyone know why you shouldn't go after it with oil?

Carsten

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Because oil will eventually deteriorate and gum up the works?

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Because oil will eventually deteriorate and gum up the works?

I see. Thanks.

And what does the so inclined Forist do now, if he wants to make something like that workable and functional again?

Dismantle it, use penetrating oil, make it workable, degrease it with alcohol, dry it with warm air and reassemble it?

Carsten

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[Seadog]

I continuity tested all 3 contact pairs (as you say only 1 is used pn my 1ph), so yes, I have 2 spares

You could parallel the three pairs, Then there's no need to worry about swapping wires about.

 

[James1979]

A ten year anniversary is what I acquired today

 

[Maker]

View attachment 328428A ten year anniversary is what I acquired today

Woah, it really is Bloo!

 

[James1979]

Photos a bit cropped but the blue ‘un is a Seaman’s Book covering up some stuff on the certificate

 

[JMS1972]

View attachment 328428A ten year anniversary is what I acquired today

Crossing the equator? My dad did that on a aircraft carrier. The photos were interesting

 

[James1979]

Crossing the equator? My dad did that on a aircraft carrier. The photos were interesting

Yup. 81 degrees West. Merchant vessel.

Fun times.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I found a Bluenose Certificate in an old atlas I'd bought in a 2nd hand bookshop in Orkney for £5 years ago - sold it on eBay to someone in America for £82 + postage.

Result!!