Today I acquired...........

[GRW]

I removed the cyl head, squirted some GT85 and light oil onto the pistons - and managed to free off the Clarke Compressor pump, and the bores and pistons seem OK with no nasty scores.
Very little oil in the pump (right on the bottom of the filler/dipstick) - so no prizes for working out that it probably got a bit hot. Hard to say without trying it, but it looks like it might have survived (guessing it's not worth stripping a cheapo Clarke Italian (1996) Compressor pump on a 50L portable - so if it works, it works, and if not, ce'st la vie).

The big Brooks though was just too nice and old thing not to save, even though I can't currently think of a use for it.
It's got a spring and bobweight system on the rear of the shaft, which when it throws closes a pair of contacts which look a lot like an old Points system. So it must be a Star/Delta soft/start system I think?

 

[DAPPH]

A pair of rather old, very heavy power levers to lift even heavier things:

View attachment 343842

View attachment 343843

If I wasn't completely asleep at school and the lever blades are about 130mm long from the tilt axis at the front bottom and the hand levers are about 1400mm long from there, then a 95kg person should be able to lift a load of a tonne with one of the levers alone quite effortlessly ...

View attachment 343844


Have a nice afternoon all

Carsten

--

Good for moving really heavy vault safes and machinery ... keep an eye out for four of the small tracked rollers that they usually accompany .

 

[25.4_mechanic]

It's got a spring and bobweight system on the rear of the shaft, which when it throws closes a pair of contacts which look a lot like an old Points system. So it must be a Star/Delta soft/start system I think?

As far as one can read the type plate, the motor seems to be hard-wired for star circuit, but the centrifugal switch could take a starting capacitor out of the circuit when the desired speed is reached - after that it would be counterproductive and would not live long itself either?!?

So, yes, softstart.

Carsten

--

 

[DAPPH]

I removed the cyl head, squirted some GT85 and light oil onto the pistons - and managed to free off the Clarke Compressor pump, and the bores and pistons seem OK with no nasty scores.
Very little oil in the pump (right on the bottom of the filler/dipstick) - so no prizes for working out that it probably got a bit hot. Hard to say without trying it, but it looks like it might have survived (guessing it's not worth stripping a cheapo Clarke Italian (1996) Compressor pump on a 50L portable - so if it works, it works, and if not, ce'st la vie).

The big Brooks though was just too nice and old thing not to save, even though I can't currently think of a use for it.
It's got a spring and bobweight system on the rear of the shaft, which when it throws closes a pair of contacts which look a lot like an old Points system. So it must be a Star/Delta soft/start system I think?

I've just taken a 19 month old dead Clarke 1/3 hp motor I put on my lathe apart that only got 12 or so hours running time out of it . .
It has the same sort of spring contact set up as well as a sliding centrifugal actuator flange on the rotor's shaft , it drops out part of the windings once the heavy start current has got the motor moving ( If I'm right ) .

Have a look at the super special way the rotor was balanced , note the bashed up metal work on it that has been over painted in places , but there is no evidence of any foreign bit being inside the motor to cause the damage . The rotor actually has polished the steel former of windings as evidenced by the ever so slightly colour difference , yet the bearings at both ends have very very little free play in them suggesting a bent shaft ? .

Could this motor be a factory reject that's been recondition in China ?


Darker outer rim polished by the rotor ?

The split load switch , in good condition in the cast iron housing body.
Note...the Chinesium special headed cross slot mounting screws for which out of a dozen nor more different x head screwdrivers I don't have one for that profile .

Precision balancing method

 

[GRW]

As far as one can read the type plate, the motor seems to be hard-wired for star circuit, but the centrifugal switch could take a starting capacitor out of the circuit when the desired speed is reached - after that it would be counterproductive and would not live long itself either?!?

So, yes, softstart.

Carsten

--

Carsten - thanks for that insight. Yes I noted it was stated as just one wiring configuration too - but I don't know a great deal about electric motors themselves.
What you suggested about a start capacitor (and there is a cylinder on the external of the body) makes sense.
Given that 1hp is about 4 Amps, and the starting current stated as just 6.6 Amps (& on a single phase motor too) that suggests that the soft-start system is very efficient!

 

[GRW]

I've just taken a 19 month old dead Clarke 1/3 hp motor I put on mny lathe apart that has the same sort of centriflugal bi metalic contact set up , it drops out part of the windings once the heavy start current has got the motor moving if I'm right

Have a look at the special way the rotor was balanced , note the bashed up metal work but there is no evidence of any foreign bit being inside the motor to cause the damage . The rotor actually has polished the former of rotor as evidenced by the difference in colour ever so slightly , yet the bearings at both ends have very very little free play in them .

Could this motor be a factory reject that's been recondition in China ?


Darker outer rim polished by the rotor ?
View attachment 343887

The split load switch , in good condition in the cast iron housing body.
Note...the Chinesium special headed cross slot mounting screws for which out of a dozen nor more different x head screwdrivers I don't have one for that profile .

View attachment 343888



View attachment 343886

Precision balancing method

Not inspiring! Luckily the 2hp 2800rpm (ish) motor on this Compressor is working fine (offload af least).
When it was first shown to me, plugged in the motor just made that strained noise they do when trying to turn, but failing.
Thinking maybe if was just a naffed Capacitor my first effort was to remove and measure the capacitance- which was spot on..... so I pulled off the front off the pulley guard and found the pump was solid .
(Annoyingly without the space or tools to get the guards and belt off properly at the old fella's place, I cut the belt to prove the electric motor was ok... and now I need a new belt to find out if I've got a viable Compressor ).
I suppose I could have tried that mahoosive Brooks on it (half speed and weighs more than the rest of the whole Compressor)

 

[Bki26]

spring contact set up as well as a sliding centrifugal actuator flange on the rotor's shaft

Like this?

 

[DAPPH]

Like this?

Yes ..... but my set had a silver plating that's less toxic .

Not inspiring! Luckily the 2hp 2800rpm (ish) motor on this Compressor is working fine (offload af least).
When it was first shown to me, plugged in the motor just made that strained noise they do when trying to turn, but failing.
Thinking maybe if was just a naffed Capacitor my first effort was to remove and measure the capacitance- which was spot on..... so I pulled off the front off the pulley guard and found the pump was solid .
(Annoyingly without the space or tools to get the guards and belt off properly at the old fella's place, I cut the belt to prove the electric motor was ok... and now I need a new belt to find out if I've got a viable Compressor ).
I suppose I could have tried that mahoosive Brooks on it (half speed and weighs more than the rest of the whole Compressor)

Use Fenner link belting running in the direction of the arrows on the links and adjust it once it's bedded in ?

 

[GRW]

Like this?

Yes ..... but my set had a silver plating that's less toxic .

Use Fenner link belting running in the direction of the arrows on the links and adjust it once it's bedded in ?

I dunno where I'd source Fenner Link Belting (though I like the idea!) - I was just thinking to close up the gap between motor & pump... wrap some strings around to get a measurement, measure the width and height of the pulley vee.... and buy a Gates type Vee belt & chuck it on

 

[25.4_mechanic]

I dunno where I'd source Fenner Link Belting (though I like the idea!) - I was just thinking to close up the gap between motor & pump... wrap some strings around to get a measurement, measure the width and height of the pulley vee.... and buy a Gates type Vee belt & chuck it on

This is also how I do it when both pulleys are openly accessible.

But in the past I have already ordered incorrectly when my measuring cord has e.g. run in the bottom of the V-groove and the supplier specifies the length of his belts in the shoulder of the V-groove.

This is not a problem, you just have to know and pay attention to it, there is also a formula shoulder-centre-bottom-ratio which I don't have at hand right now -
but the vendors should know all about it .... good luck!


Carsten

--

 

[minimutly]

A nice older guy I met when I bought his old Clarke pillar drill a few months back rang me today and said "I've got a few bits for you if you want to call round".

So I called in after work. Turns out he's moving & wasn't going to move all his stuff again, so was lightening the load.

Anyway.... along with a small belt-drive (seized pump) Clarke Compressor and a few drill bits - I ended up bringing this home :

View attachment 343869



View attachment 343870
The body/chassis alone is about a foot long and a foot diameter, and it's heavy.
It works beautifully when plugged in, bearings etc all seems smooth.
It's hard to read all the Brooks Plate, but it's i think only 1Hp (must be a Dray Horse though, cos it must have plenty of torque).
It states the startup current is 6.6A, so that suggests it can't be rated at more than 1Hp @ 1420rpm.
It's perhaps 3x the size and weight of the 2hp 4-pole 1400rm motor on my Ingersoll Rand Compressor motor!

Read that plate again - AC Motor - 1 phase....

 

[indy4x]

New stereo for the Jeep



To replace this



Using one of these

 

[GRW]

Any ideas what machine/tool this big Brookes motor might be suitable for powering? It's very hefty, but only rated at 1 Horsepower (so I'm thinking it's not got the welly for stuff like compressor pumps?).
It has 4 belt grooves on its pulley, so I'm thinking maybe it is quite high torque and was perhaps able to drive some kind of multiple process machine of some kind?
(Never having had any kind of machinist /tooling /woodworking workshop background or experience, I'm only able to speculate).
It'd be nice to think it could be re-employed and back in use in a useful capacity .
There must be lots of useful things 1hp belt-drive is plenty powerful for?

P.S. I wonder how old it might be! It says 1936 on the dataplate, buy I think that might refer to the Company or a Patent, not the motor (plus surely a very old motor would be rated at 250v which this isn't)? Anyone?

 

[Johnnybravo]

At the time we thought they were the mounts for a mechanism to retract the front roller, but that is a far simpler / more brutal process. The belt centring screw was seized it appears that the insert in the casting had rusted a little but application of WD40 and the dogs soon sorted it, followed by some light machine oil into the front roller bearing oil point. If yours is the same vintage would you happen to have a copy of the original manual?

View attachment 343566View attachment 343567

Possibly a different model. Mine has nothing there either. It might have been for some sort of guide or fence. Elu also did a universal table where you could put a jigsaw,circular saw,router,sander etc upside down for static work. It might have had something to do with that.

 

[AKN]

Possibly a different model. Mine has nothing there either. It might have been for some sort of guide or fence. Elu also did a universal table where you could put a jigsaw,circular saw,router,sander etc upside down for static work. It might have had something to do with that.

View attachment 343897 View attachment 343898

Thank you for looking. It looks like the same model MHB9. Now you say it the fittings are probably for a side fence fitting into a table would be a pain as they are inside the belt.
In my internet hunting I came across these folks if you ever need spares:-

Elu MHB90 Type 1 Belt Sander Spare Parts - Part Shop Direct

Elu MHB90 Type 1 Belt Sander Spare Parts - Part Shop Direct

www.partshopdirect.co.uk

 

[Maker]

I acquired even more lighting, these are 20w halogen examination lamps, presumably being replaced for LEDs, loads of them being chucked with nothing wrong with them. I'm sure you could just swap the bulbs for LED.



Picture taken with the overhead lights off to show the spot they throw. I've got a drill and a mill either side of the bench, the lamps can swing round to light them which is probably how they'll mainly get used.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Any ideas what machine/tool this big Brookes motor might be suitable for powering? It's very hefty, but only rated at 1 Horsepower (so I'm thinking it's not got the welly for stuff like compressor pumps?).
It has 4 belt grooves on its pulley, so I'm thinking maybe it is quite high torque and was perhaps able to drive some kind of multiple process machine of some kind?
(Never having had any kind of machinist /tooling /woodworking workshop background or experience, I'm only able to speculate).
It'd be nice to think it could be re-employed and back in use in a useful capacity .
There must be lots of useful things 1hp belt-drive is plenty powerful for?

P.S. I wonder how old it might be! It says 1936 on the dataplate, buy I think that might refer to the Company or a Patent, not the motor (plus surely a very old motor would be rated at 250v which this isn't)? Anyone?

I can't say anything about how old this motor is, but my impression is that you have held on to more beautiful, ornamental forms longer than we have, which is why I have often thought that English products are older than they are.

I also don't know when you had which mains voltage and when changes took place.

But I do not share the emphasis on ONLY one horsepower:

Myford's ML7 had only 1/3 horsepower at first, then later 1/2. The Super7 came with a 3/4 horsepower motor - and you can do some serious damage with those machines!

And very importantly, your motor dates surely from a time when manufacturers were making power claims that were still certainly as a minimum achieved under the most unfavourable circumstances, at least in my experience. Not like today under the most favourable conditions with a full moon and tailwind.

In addition, your motor is designed and labeled for continuous operation, so the manufacturer envisioned - and presumably tested - running the engine 24/7 at the stated power limit, very likely well above it!

The quad pulley says torque beyond that, as you already suspect, but also safety critical.

I would have no trouble using this motor to drive small to medium lathes, as well as large saws, compressors, hydraulic power units, etc. in hard continuous operation where reliability is critical.

Be happy with the catch and if you can think of a use for it, make it happen - if there is no fundamental defect with this motor it will do the job.

Good progress


Carsten

--

 

[OJCar]

P.S. I wonder how old it might be! It says 1936 on the dataplate, buy I think that might refer to the Company or a Patent, not the motor (plus surely a very old motor would be rated at 250v which this isn't)? Anyone?

The 1936 relates to the BSS 6(something) not the year of manufacture.

220 volts , 230 volts , 240 volts and 250 volts AC were in use in different parts of the UK
before WW2 and many years after it.

It was the building of the National Grid that had us standardise on 240 volts. (Electricity Supply Act 1926)

Later we nominally went to 230 volts to accommodate the inferior continental electricity being imported.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Later we nominally went to 230 volts to accommodate the inferior continental electricity being imported.

This is probably also the reason that you have a 3x400V/16A three phase supply available to everyone without any additional costs?

Just checked: 238.7V in the house on the normal grid, most of the times close to 240V, 230V always guaranteed.

In addition to the above-mentioned supply where I want it.

EDIT:
Thank you @OJCar
your information made me look into it:

In Europe, the mains voltage is 230 V ± 23 V at a mains frequency of 50 Hz ± 0.2 Hz.
In three-phase systems, the effective value of the sinusoidal AC mains voltage between one outer conductor and the neutral conductor is 230 V, between two outer conductors approx. 400 volts.
Until 1987, the mains voltage in large parts of Europe, including Germany, Austria and Switzerland, was 220(±22) V, while in the United Kingdom it was 240(±24) V. The voltage of 230(±23) V that has been valid in Europe since then was defined as the standard voltage in the international standard IEC 60038:1983. [Wikipedia]


Carsten
--

 

[Maker]

a mains frequency of 50 Hz ± 0.2 Hz.

I'm pretty sure (In the UK at least), the frequency is adjusted so averaged over a day, it comes out to exactly 50 Hz, because some things (Probably not much these days) use mains cycles for timing.