Today I acquired...........

[DennisCA]

Thanks but yeah it's not really worth shipping anything large to Finland. I was gonna make something from plywood anyway.

 

[DAPPH]

Went to the party, got laid and it's 19mm.
OK not full rounds, more like 2/3rds which helped with chip clearance and some steady squirts of WD. Light steady pressure and it made progress pretty quickly.
Got 2 more goes needed on the 2 1/2" cutter for this folly project...

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That free space for the swarf to escape into is indeed some thing to aim for .

If you kiss cut the diameter of the hole cutter then very carefully drill a 1/2 " hole on the inside or outside of the ring depending whether you are cutting a blanking plug or a through hole so it will run on the kissed ring most of the cuttings / swarf will wash into the hole if you use cutting fluid or WD 40 as a wash down liquid giving you a reasonably clean hole .

It's how I put a 50 mm hole though the 10 mm thick welding bench table top after the hole saw trying to skid all over the place due to clogging swarf .( hand held power drill ) .
So when I take the vice off I can mount a router on the underside and use a big 45 degree cutter . These days the cut out plug of steel sits in the hole resting on the sole plate of the router to stop things falling down the hole . I've sometimes used bathroom silicon to totally seal the steel plug in so I didn't loose tiny screws or ball bearings etc down the hole .

 

[DAPPH]

Easier method:

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True.. I wanted the machined flange of the rivinut on the inside of the hollow square tube so I could slide a machine grooved square bar inside the hollow tube . Popping it in from the outside fouled the grooved bar .
I think when it was factory made an anvil bar was slipped inside the hollow tube to hold the nut in place whilst it was flared over on the outer threads

 

[DAPPH]

Made it almost 10 years without a miter saw but I finally bought one.

Perhaps make up a bottomed hole in a work table top for it , so it sits level with the rest of your work bench , fill the hole with a block of wood when not in use? I did that for my Italian chop /mitre saw when I was making 18 lattice 6x 3 foot fence topping sections a total of 482 ( IIRC) n mitered cuts out of treated roof batons

 

[DAPPH]

I don't need a bag sealer, but the price was very right.

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@MattF will be pleased to see I'm not wearing safety Crocs.

I'm not jealous ..honest ... 240 v or 110 volts , does the roll cutter work well ? Can you easily get spares such as the heat seal tape / band .

 

[Maker]

240v, the cutter works nicely and I've got no idea about spares, can't find any reference to Dapper online so I guess not. Looking at pictures of other models I think there should be some sort of non stick cover over the heater? I've just got a bare strip of hot metal and the bags stick to it.

 

[DAPPH]

I have many years experience of industrial & domestic heat sealers

The heater wire should have a PTFE non stick heat tape over it , to stop burning through the poly bags , usually the machine can only be used once every 80 seconds or so to prevent the tape coming unstuck through too much heat or you burning out the element .

Put " heat sealer tape & elements " into eBay . They are available in a lot of different sizes .


Weschenfelder sell several types of food bag sealers & spares as well as decent heavy duty embossed bags & rolls of embossed bags if you want it for food sealing . Don't try using normal supermarket thin heat sealable bags unless they are really thick polythene ....... as you all too frequently melt holes in them along the seal line no matter what setting you set the temp control to.

 

[Maker]

Cheers for the info, I was thinking of trying kapton tape. I'll measure it and have a look for spares tomorrow.

It hadn't occurred to me to use it for food, I actually looked into vacuum sealers a while ago, I wanted one freezing and marinating but ultimately decided we don't really have the space for more kitchen toys. This one's just a bit on the big side for the kitchen but it could live in the shed with the chest freezer. Any idea how the vacuum works on the sous vide ones, is it something I could retro-fit?

 

[Farside]

Any idea how the vacuum works on the sous vide ones,

Just a thought - if you get a Volvo 12V vacuum brake pump, it might do the job. Designed to give vacuum to the vac reservoir on the cars, it's plenty capable of providing decent pull for hours on end.

 

[Dr.Al]

Some cheap but big diamond sharpening plates (230 mm × 80 mm: that's about 9" × π" for the antediluvian ones among you) for £7.35 each: they're bigger than the DMT-brand (8" × 3") ones and about a tenth of the price. It'll be interesting to see how well they work: the discs I use on my slow speed grinder were cheap and they work very well indeed. The big plates took a while to hunt down as there are lots of 170 mm × 75 mm ones available but I was curious to see if any bigger options existed.

They're only 1 mm thick so will flex a bit if not restrained: my plan is to stick them down to some aluminium flat bar. I've got quite a bit of 10 × 80 mm aluminium flat bar so that should do the trick. Given the price (and the fact I've got plenty of aluminium flat bar), I might order some more as spares and/or alternative grits once I've tried them out.

 

[DAPPH]

Just a thought - if you get a Volvo 12V vacuum brake pump, it might do the job. Designed to give vacuum to the vac reservoir on the cars, it's plenty capable of providing decent pull for hours on end.

He'll need to have a three inch at the widest point Y fan cowl with just a few mm of gap between the top & bottom so he can slip it inside the bag mouths and press a softish foam covered bar over the cowl so when the vacuum is started in the cowl it pulls the air out the sealed bag . Once its looking flat press the heat sealer on and stop the vacuum at the same time , keeping the sealing foam bar in place to hold the vacuum , wait six or more seconds after the timer on the sealer cuts in so the seal can solidify before pulling ou the bag other wise you'll tear big holes in the still molten plastic area.

If you want to seal liquids , stand them up right and gently fold over as much empty bag as you can , stand it up right in the freezer till rock solid then put it in the heat sealer as normal this can be problematic if the bag falls over before it is frozen ( guess how I know )


Now there is only the two of us at home we batch cook a lot of foods not only to allow us quick decent meals we like if we've been out for the day but also for energy consumptions considerations and power cuts of a day or so long ,
I now freeze then vac pack & heat seal all manner of liquids , extra mince , food that can be safely frozen , stews and extra cooked spuds swede etc. etc .in two people sized portions , As well as me buying ten or so chickens at a time professionally portioning them up as to how we want them , same with 5 Kg ( ordered well ahead from local sources ) big bags of low fat pork or beef micce . done by cutting half a dozen 7 inch length of new unused 110 mm soil pipe , rounding off all the edges with a scraper blade such as a Stanley knife . I drew a vertical line from top to bottom and used a fine toothed plastic saw to cut up the line , made two such vertical cuts about 2 mm apart by using a baton of wood clamped to the tube and running the saw along the wooden guide . This vertical cut slot is to allow the tube to expand when frozen and to aid getting the expanded frozen bag/ plug out the tube sleeve . Again carefully round all edges of the cut and give a quality 1/4 " radius to the four cut ends of the slot . All this careful rounding & the radius'ing is so you don't snick / puncture a bag , either when putting it in or taking it out . I found this out the hard way as well .
Not all the foods frozen are the sole method of preserving them I also pressure can all manner of safe to can foods . & air dry a lot of our legumes so any prolonged power cut or a food supply scare at the supermarkets does not affect us

When everything is smoothly radiused & rounded stick them through the dish washer to ensure they are clean .

Now when you want to freeze a liquid or some thing simply wash your hands well , dry them on a clean towel and slip a bag over your hand , put the bagged hand inside the tube and push the bag to the bottom . with draw said hand .
Stand tube on draining board & very carefully so as not to badly crease the bag turn the spare bag material back over the outside of the tube so it's out the way and give you the 100 mm hole to very easily to pour liquids in the bag .

I use a "Kilner ...stainless steel Jam jar filler funnel " it's like a saucer with a 2 inch hole in th middle to stop spilling poured liquid or drips off the jug/ ladle over the now folded down bag ( which would make a bad seal if unnoticed and not well cleaned and dried off before sealing ) and pour a pint or so of the liquid in .
Carefully lift them up holding the top of the now unfolded bag and support the bottom of the bag to stop it slipping out. and transport them to the freezer one at a time ( or chest freezer on a tray ) now gently do a single fold over of the empty bag part keeping it straight without harsh kinks or corners in it . Once well frozen simply slide the block of food in the bag out and heat seal it . Don't drop them on your toes ....it hurts like hell if you do .
Freezing things like chops & steaks , cover any sharp bone edge with several wraps of cling film and cover in a well folded over bit of kitchen towel to blunt th sharpness now add a bit more cling film to hold the padding in place . We freeze these bagged up open on a tray then when frozen solid pop them in the vac pack & bag sealer

NB
" Four day old supermarket fresh " pork when frozen for much over three months old tends to take on a rancid smell & taste .. so freeze pork as fresh as you posisbly can ..same with the chicken it's why we use our local butcher who buys local meats etc.

Leave enough space above the seal line on a sealed bag to write what it is and the date it was sealed up and a use by date ( UBB ) Hold these now sealed dated bags up to the light and look for a quality sealed clear is plastic line about 3.5 mm wide right across the bag as it's not unknown for there to have been a smear of the contents to be in the sealing line and not get properly sealed . If I have this happen I straight away slip the faulty bag inside another bag and then vac pack & heat seal it again ......... straight away .

 

[Dr.Al]

Oooh, two acquisitions in one day. Parcelforce just dropped these off:

and they fit!

I've wanted some soft jaws for a long time. I made my own hex soft jaws but I've used them so much that there's not much left and they take a while to make so I haven't summoned up the oomph to make more. I was very seriously thinking about following Harold Hall's guide to making soft jaws but then after measuring them carefully and looking on the 'bay I found some that looked like they might be the right size and decided to take a punt.

I'm thinking I'll probably cut them down to just proud of the chuck face and add some holes (maybe a couple of dowel holes and a tapped hole?) so I can use them as two-part jaws and quickly make lots of jaw bits for them. As a hobbyist I'm hoping the scroll teeth will last a long time despite being soft and if I make them into two part jaws I'll have an easy lifetime supply of soft jaws.

 

[Hood]

On worn soft jaws you can weld bits of steel and as long they are fairly even and balanced they work great. Two part definitely the way to go.

 

[Jan-DIY]

Discovered these big boy in my collection.
My garage is full of black dust now because i struggle to get the right fuel for it.
Being comfortable with oxy bangs but that’s louder than regular tips.

 

[Barking Mat]

Today I acquired a sheet of 2m x 1m, 4mm sheet.

At the shocking price of just shy of 300 euros, ouch.

Client paid.

Guess what I'm making....

Yeah, not finished the feet.

I proposed other silhouettes but she gave me a lousy photo, and this is how far I've got getting a silhouette.

She's agreed on the outline, nipple slightly smaller.

For hiding people showering after they've used the pool.

Not my taste, but hey...

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Today a little something to make chips:

Roll end roughing cutter

Roll end finishing cutter

Radius cutter

Carbide deburring and contour milling cutter


And so that the chips can also be made in the right place, an optical 3D edge finder.

I've wanted some soft jaws for a long time. I made my own hex soft jaws but I've used them so much that there's not much left and they take a while to make so I haven't summoned up the oomph to make more.

An interesting idea, I'll give it some thought.
I'm not quite sure how I can/should measure and define my jaw chuck sufficiently in order to find soft jaws for sale (in the bay) ...


Carsten

--

 

[Blobber]

Cheapy vacuum for the working out in the barn and a variable speed angle grinder, no idea how long it will all last but its cheap enough

 

[Barking Mat]

Cheapy vacuum for the working out in the barn and a variable speed angle grinder, no idea how long it will all last but its cheap enough
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Scheppach rings a bell, not the best, not the worst.

 

[Blobber]

And I liked the last set of cutters so bought another pair, bit like pants 1 pair for best and the other pair not for best!

 

[OJCar]

She's agreed on the outline, nipple slightly smaller.

Now where are they going to hang their towel ?