Today I acquired...........

[Dr.Al]

Had to take my Lid in to Infinity Motorcykes York ( good guys) to have the visor adjusted, while I was there, this came home with me.
View attachment 379485

Not had to buy a satnav for at least 5yrs, and the Garmin Nuvi I had on the bike had stood up well to the weather it wasn't designed for. However on the trip home last week, I got fedup of it telling my I was in some city in China. Thought it was time to set free some months. With discount £310. expensive but has loads of features I might get round to using some day

Nice. I've got the earlier Zumo 595 and it's excellent. I had a TomTom Rider first and it was a steaming pile of foetid dingoes' kidneys, so I sold it and bought a Garmin instead!

On the off-chance you're like me and like planning your own biking routes but hate BaseCamp, I wrote a (free) website for planning routes that can then be downloaded onto the GPS:

Link to the info page about it: https://www.cgtk.co.uk/navigation/gpx

 

[8ob]

Today I acquired courtesy of a mate some steel, about three tons of very useful sections and tubes. the steelery/curing rack was getting a tad low so this comes as a handy and timely top up.

Bob

 

[My Old Landy]

I have a new antenna comes in kit form so the Mrs will be busy tomorrow putting it together for me

 

[25.4_mechanic]

I have a new antenna comes in kit form so the Mrs will be busy tomorrow putting it together for me

"DX Commander" seems to be a whole range of antennas by that OM M0MCX - which one is it?

Carsten

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[My Old Landy]

"DX Commander" seems to be a whole range of antennas by that OM M0MCX - which one is it?

Carsten

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It is the Classic. 10m pole that is resonant from 40m to 10m

 

[bricol]

Some bearings from a national engineering supplier for a work application:

Ah ha, you say, good old British engineering, when British engineering was the best . . .

Well it might have been, but in the years since, they've obviously not exactly been stored under ideal conditions, and whoever picked them ought to have simply bunged 'em in the scrap bin rather than send them to us!

 

[Shox Dr]

Nice. I've got the earlier Zumo 595 and it's excellent. I had a TomTom Rider first and it was a steaming pile of foetid dingoes' kidneys, so I sold it and bought a Garmin instead!

On the off-chance you're like me and like planning your own biking routes but hate BaseCamp, I wrote a (free) website for planning routes that can then be downloaded onto the GPS:

View attachment 379503

Link to the info page about it: https://www.cgtk.co.uk/navigation/gpx

Ive been holding off until a reasonable screen screen appeared. Ive tried to use TomTom, cant get on with them. It's a long time since I've planned a ride using any Garmin app, too much grief, and we never stuck to them. However Id like to go back to Norway again so a planner would be very handy for that.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

I see GYS do one

You prompted me to get the flier out the truck…..

View attachment 369594

View attachment 369595
View attachment 369596
View attachment 369598
They go up to about £10k on promo!!

The 10R is about the same as the sealey I like. £200 cheaper on this deal too…

Gys-welding.com

Cousin got the small Gys for car work, after we pestered him to get it. It's really really good. It's rare he has to get the gas bottles out now, the induction heater does it far better for the small nuts and bolts on cars.

Yes it’s the 230. I am impressed with it. I probably use it beyond its means but I just hold it on till stuff glows. I’m using it in a commercial truck garage for wheelnuts and ball joints that have never been off etc.

It is a game changer.

If I was buying and had the cash, I’d go as big as I could afford. But if you’re mainly doing car stuff I reckon you won’t have any issues with the 230 at all.

I just work with “go big or go home”
When buying stuff.

The bootlace is the only attachment I’ve used. So can’t comment on the others. They are where the money is when you replace them though.

I like the GYS ends. They’re better.

It is a shame you can’t try one first.

Went for a GYS induction heater, seems very good in the two minutes I’ve used it playing around heating up an m8 stud and nut
View attachment 372143

Meanwhile, the flow of goods has started again - even to me, and I blame this forum for most of it.

With your reports about the fabulous devices for inductive heating of stuck connections, you have really triggered my imagination (loosening, melting&casting, hardening, ...) - because naturally the good stuff from GYS etc. cannot be considered for my hobby needs and so DIY is the order of the day.

A bit of small stuff from China is on its way to me for experimenting, but I also wanted to make sure that I have a voltage source in the back of the finished product that simply won't go to its knees:

So, a voltage source, which with its huge (stray field?) transformer will definitely not be brought to its knees, is provided .... but almost any old welding transformer would have been suitable for that ...

... but this thing has another trick up its sleeve:

It is called the "ENDRESS Electro-Welding and Unfreezing Apparatus" and is suitable for defrosting a frozen metal water pipe, for example, by connecting the two poles via two 1.5mm² leads to it and leaving them there for as long as necessary.

If this cannot be called "short-circuit-proof", what then?


And for not even the price of the electrode holder or one of the thick cables, it would have been rude to leave the thing sitting there.

So by flipping the jumpers, I have the choice between welding with up to 125A (140A) - it works, I 've tried it - at below 50V (the legal upper limit for non-hazardous voltages [safe to tough] in our country) and thawing with up to 250A at 12V ... and that at the normal socket with 220V in the past, 230-240V today.

No matter which circuit I continue with behind it, this should suffice.

--

Unfortunately, I had to realise that making large internal threads deep in the workpiece on the Myford is not easily possible.

When the insert holder protrudes a certain length from its QC holder, it is no longer possible to produce a good thread, no matter how slow and careful you are, apart from the fact that it is difficult to see inside.

When making an adapter to a real woodturning chuck for the ML8, these will come in handy:

I measured something just over 15mm as the drive square - which is more likely 19/32" or 39/64" at that point?



Carsten

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[indy4x]

Some goodies



Big thank you to @pressbrake1

Just have to learn how to scrape the camelback

 

[Brad93]

Some goodies

View attachment 379581

Big thank you to @pressbrake1

Just have to learn how to scrape the camelback

a very stout little camelback

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Some goodies

What is this beauty ...

... and what does "to scrape the camelback" mean? Thanks!

Carsten

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[Brad93]

What is this beauty ...

View attachment 379593


... and what does "to scrape the camelback" mean? Thanks!

Carsten

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it's a cast iron straight edge. Yanks call them camel backs, the english term is a fishback.

Used as a reference surface in machine building.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

it's a cast iron straight edge. Yanks call them camel backs, the english term is a fishback.

Used as a reference surface in machine building.

Thanks. Brad,

so just like these but much nicer ...

only that this pair is on it's way to me


No, really beautiful that Camel-/Fish-Back!! And useful.

Carsten

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[Pete.]

Those are machining parallels. They could be used as straight edges but they are a bit small and it's not their intended use. A camelback/beam straight edge is a reference surface so the level of finish is a lot finer. Scraping is one way to achieve that.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Scraping is one way to achieve that.

Thanks, Pete.

But this one

seems to be precision-ground (right?), so that's another way to achieve that?

Can one say that scraping is to be considered the highest form of precision surface treatment or surface creation?
I always hear and read it with the flair of great respect and have the greatest jitters about it myself?!?!

Thanks

Carsten

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[Brad93]

Thanks. Brad,

so just like these but much nicer ...

View attachment 379601

only that this pair is on it's way to me


No, really beautiful that Camel-/Fish-Back!! And useful.

Carsten

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well they're parallels. Ground to usually a few tenths for high quality ones. Those I beam types are usually not particularly great for flatness due to the unsupported edges.

a straight edge is very heavily ribbed and designed as such that after heat treatment and seasoning, they are extremely stable. A straight edge is then usually planed flat then hand scraped to extreme accuracy.

A 2 foot square granite surface plate of a high grade can have a total flatness of around 5 microns. You then scrape your reference from a known good or calibrated surface plate.

For example, a devlieg jigmill is hand scraped to an accuracy of 0.0001" per 12". @pressbrake. colleague eric uses a reference straight edge of about 2 foot long if I remember correctly.

 

[Brad93]

Five microns in inches is two tenths 0.0002".

Over say 2 feet that's absolutely minute.

Using 'modern' electronic gauging apparatus or optical means (optical flat being the most simple for example), it's possible to measure flatness into the realm of millionths of an inch, and then into wavelengths of light.

 

[Brad93]

Five microns in inches is two tenths 0.0002".

Over say 2 feet that's absolutely minute.

Using 'modern' electronic gauging apparatus or optical means (optical flat being the most simple for example), it's possible to measure flatness into the realm of millionths of an inch, and then into wavelengths of light.

My best gauge blocks are flat to a tenth. Those are shop floor quality gauge blocks by todays standards.
The modern ceramic gauge blocks laboratory standard are flat to 0.1um which is 5 millionths of an inch.

 

[nickk]

Some repair items for toys,then a pack of bargain lighters and guess what,all 10 work.

 

[GSR]

A nice birthday present