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Pete.
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The one motor does everything except pump coolant. It drives the casette gearbox seen above via a twin-belt pulley system which drives the horizontal spindle which in turn drives the attachments via the sliding gear located by a fixed fork. All that is shown in post #119/120. There is a second long vee belt that comes off the back of the casette gearbox input shaft which drives the feed gearbox in the bottom of the column. This means that spindle speeds are given in RPM and feeds are given in Inches per minute but you can change the tool RPM to increase productivity or gain a better finish without affecting the chip load.
Brad93
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WEG W22 IE3 Cast Iron 2.2kW Three Phase Motor 230V/400V 2 Pole 90L Frame B3 - AC Motors (Three Phase)
Part No: 12862356, Brand: WEG, Model: W22 IE3 Cast Iron 2.2kW Three Phase Motor 230V/400V 2 Pole 90L Frame B3
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
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Well it needs digging out anyway so i will check the spec plate
Not a motor but a Thiell mill in merthyr
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Pete.
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Not a motor but a Thiell mill in merthyr
Thiel Milling Machine | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Thiel Milling Machine at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!www.ebay.co.uk
Nice those thiel but that's not a patch on the Scottish one that went last week for only 700 quid more. Also says feeds on x and y axis so what's up with the z-axis feed? The cover is off it - bit suspicious.
Ah, ok thanks for the explanation. I suppose the only down side is you need main motor for feeds when using the high speed head.
Mark Davison
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If it is a foot mounted Harrison it sounds the same as mine (not the one i mention above) which is a 100 frame 6 pole 2hp single voltage. All I would say is it was a doddle to find the star point and convert to dual voltage.
Pete.
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I appreciate it but no I will hold out for a 3hp.
Milkybars
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Mark Davison
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Hmmm. Roofman, is yours a horizontal or dedicated vertical mill? Mine's the vertical so I must have been lucky to get one with a 2hp. I thought the horizontals had flange mounted motors?
roofman
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no mate, this motor came off my Harrison 11" lathe when i converted to single phase
Pete.
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So, after a couple of weeks of decorating duty I finally got a free weekend ahead of me. I decided to tidy up ready to do some work. It didn't take long since I've adopted my new '2hr tidy up' regime of working and after I had got done I was left with this stripped-down motor on my bench balefully staring at me with a 'I dare you to even try' expression. Can't resist that sort of challenge, and given that the motor was destined for the scrap pile I figured what the hell and set about un-picking the laquered binding to try to find the twelve ends I need to get at in order to re-configure this motor for 240v 3 phase connection.
2 hrs later and I have this:
I'm going to have to draw out the windings and figure out the proper way to split and join them. Have to do a few sketches and scratch my head for a while, get the multimeter out and start chopping. I have some heat proof insulating sleeve to re-protect the connections and I have to get hold of some binding taps and laquer in order to zip it all up again. I think that the original stuff might have been shellac.
2 hrs later and I have this:
I'm going to have to draw out the windings and figure out the proper way to split and join them. Have to do a few sketches and scratch my head for a while, get the multimeter out and start chopping. I have some heat proof insulating sleeve to re-protect the connections and I have to get hold of some binding taps and laquer in order to zip it all up again. I think that the original stuff might have been shellac.
Pete.
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I got the multimeter out today and did some checks to make sure I had all of the wires and windings labelled correctly and it was a good job I did because I found that two of the windings were reversed compared to what the schematic said they should be, inside the motor terminal box. Perhaps it was someone's clumsy fiddling that caused one of the tails to short and go open circuit, or perhaps it was just 'done that way' and the tech adjusted the wiring to compensate, or maybe someone just didn't like which way they had to turn the fwd/reverse lever. Whatever, my job was to find out what was wrong.
So I checked the switch connection sketch I made, transferred the labels from the switch and from the terminal block onto the schematic and I already had the windings labelled from when I stripped the motor. This all gave me the info I needed to cut and join the connections how I wanted. However, when I did my checks, I found that U-X had a resistance of 9ohms whereas Z-V and Y-W had 6 ohms each. Clearly something was labelled wrong so I double-checked the schematic and that was all ok up to the motor terminals, they must have two of the connections reversed internally. I knew it had to be the two 6 ohm ones that were backwards because you can't have ONE thing wrong, two must be swapped.
At first I thought it was Y and Z that were backwards but then I realised it couldn't be those two because they X, Y and Z are brought together in a star point for high speed so if they were swapped over the motor would turn one way in FWD low and the other way in FWD high. It must be V and W. I re-labelled these and the my readings then all made sense at 9 ohms each.
So first I checked (as above) that the U,V,W points were properly opposite the X,Y,Z points - check
Then I had to double-check that they were opposite, and also in the same sequence as the schematic, important to get straight in my head before I started cutting wires. To do this I split the connection at W and then took sequential readings all around the loop. They all tallied up at about 5.2ohms per winding. I also checked visually which direction the wires were running and found that all of them were going in the same 'sense' for all three phases.
After that I labelled the split at W as Wx and Wy, check with a multimeter, split V and labelled them as Vx and Vz, then split U and lebelled them as Uy and Uz.
To complete the job I have to take each of these six split points and reconnect them to the corner that they are pointing towards. So Wy will connect to X and Wx will connect to Y which will put those two windings in parallel, and then do the other four the same so that I can use the motor with a 240V VFD.
Here is it right now all labelled up ready to go.
Now, I do realise that this might all be in vain. I might have damaged the enamel on the windings and cause a short, but it looks pretty good right now (I've done a bit of motor rewinding in my teens) or the VFD might cause the aged windings to break down, or any number of things might go wrong but the way I see it if the motor was going for scrap anyway I don't see that there's much to lose except a few quid and half a day's time that I would have spent making mounting adapters anyway. I've got some fresh air-drying enamel coming and I'm going to order more binding so I will carefully coat all the bits I've worked on then cook it gently to dry the coating, bind it up then coat it again to give it the best chance. If it goes pop, I'll buy a new motor.
So I checked the switch connection sketch I made, transferred the labels from the switch and from the terminal block onto the schematic and I already had the windings labelled from when I stripped the motor. This all gave me the info I needed to cut and join the connections how I wanted. However, when I did my checks, I found that U-X had a resistance of 9ohms whereas Z-V and Y-W had 6 ohms each. Clearly something was labelled wrong so I double-checked the schematic and that was all ok up to the motor terminals, they must have two of the connections reversed internally. I knew it had to be the two 6 ohm ones that were backwards because you can't have ONE thing wrong, two must be swapped.
At first I thought it was Y and Z that were backwards but then I realised it couldn't be those two because they X, Y and Z are brought together in a star point for high speed so if they were swapped over the motor would turn one way in FWD low and the other way in FWD high. It must be V and W. I re-labelled these and the my readings then all made sense at 9 ohms each.
So first I checked (as above) that the U,V,W points were properly opposite the X,Y,Z points - check
Then I had to double-check that they were opposite, and also in the same sequence as the schematic, important to get straight in my head before I started cutting wires. To do this I split the connection at W and then took sequential readings all around the loop. They all tallied up at about 5.2ohms per winding. I also checked visually which direction the wires were running and found that all of them were going in the same 'sense' for all three phases.
After that I labelled the split at W as Wx and Wy, check with a multimeter, split V and labelled them as Vx and Vz, then split U and lebelled them as Uy and Uz.
To complete the job I have to take each of these six split points and reconnect them to the corner that they are pointing towards. So Wy will connect to X and Wx will connect to Y which will put those two windings in parallel, and then do the other four the same so that I can use the motor with a 240V VFD.
Here is it right now all labelled up ready to go.
Now, I do realise that this might all be in vain. I might have damaged the enamel on the windings and cause a short, but it looks pretty good right now (I've done a bit of motor rewinding in my teens) or the VFD might cause the aged windings to break down, or any number of things might go wrong but the way I see it if the motor was going for scrap anyway I don't see that there's much to lose except a few quid and half a day's time that I would have spent making mounting adapters anyway. I've got some fresh air-drying enamel coming and I'm going to order more binding so I will carefully coat all the bits I've worked on then cook it gently to dry the coating, bind it up then coat it again to give it the best chance. If it goes pop, I'll buy a new motor.
Pete.
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Yeah - who'd be a motor winder
By the way when I was about 18yrs old I had a job in a small company making prototypes of a new (back then) type of motor - brushless DC rare earth permanent magnet motors. Nowadays of course they are prevalent in all manner of uses. Most of my work was building and gluing lamination stacks, baking them and coating with insulation then installing the windings into the stators, connecting the leads and tying them off before potting. I didn't understand any of it of course just did as I was told mostly but it at least takes some of the fear out of this kind of work nowadays. Another part of my job was fixing neodinium or samarian cobalt magnets onto the rotors and then they were ground by the machinist on a lathe with a toolpost grinder to make the rotors round. Got many a blood blister from those magnets and wiped a few casette tapes by accident too
Ironically, the Hardinge lathe I now have came from that very same company, 30 yrs later.
