Tow Truck re engine

[TAITSIE]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=0FXVZlM71NE
How about this set up ?

 

[ale36]

give these guys a try never used them myself but they are based near me http://www.pro-laminates.co.uk

 

[colnerov]

Hi, Interesting project. How about mounting the existing cab behind the engine and fabricating a bonnet over the engine like Scania do with their bonneted versions.

As for the licence conundrum, it's minefield. When I did one of my CPC modules earlier in the year, the instructor said that the previous week he had some staff in from DVSA doing there's. He was surprised how much they didn't know, in fact at one point they were argueing amongst themselves about some point. And they are supposed to know all this as they are the controlling authority!!

Colin

 

[Baloo]

well its been a awhile, slowed up but not stopped, to many side projects but some progress has been made

chassis has been stripped right down to its component bits to make the blasting and painting easier, some of them nuts was tight but they all gave in eventually just get a longer bar !!

and i now have a 32 model b cab for it

 

[mylesdw]

Wow! That really is dismantled. Was it all bolted together or are you going to be replacing rivets?

 

[kram44]

Great work Baloo, I'm wanting to modify an Iveco 65 as a step up from the Transit and have researched the rivet issue. Hope the below helps if you haven't already found it! The problem I understand is flex.

When she goes back together if you don't rivet you might want to ream the holes to a very tight interference fit and use a fine pitched HT steel bolt. Or these guys might help http://www.chassisalignment.co.uk/cold_riveting.htm

Heres some links that are useful;

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/bolts-instead-of-rivets.529797/
Every single one shows enormous wear on the bolts where the crossmembers flexed.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/376024-replacing-frame-rivets-with-bolts.html

http://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=ajaps.2009.22.35
"The joints are usually riveted or bolted in trucks and welded in trailers. When rivets are used, the holes in the chassis frame are drilled approximately 1/16 (in) larger than the diameter of the rivet (Fitch, 1994). The rivets are then heated to an incandescent red and driven home by hydraulic or air pressure. The hot rivets conform to the shape of the hole and tighten upon cooling. An advantage of this connection is to increase the flexibility of the chassis. Therefore, high stresses are prevented in critical area. The side and cross- members are usually open- sectioned, because they are cheap and easily attached by rivets (Karaoglu and Kuralay, 2002)."

 

[Baloo]

Wow! That really is dismantled. Was it all bolted together or are you going to be replacing rivets?

hi

well it was a pain in the **** stripping it but it makes it so much easier to shot blast and paint, if i hadent done it i would have regretted it
and yes going to put the rivets back in, well new ones anyway
keep up the good work on your TK

Andy

 

[Baloo]

"Great work Baloo, I'm wanting to modify an Iveco 65 as a step up from the Transit and have researched the rivet issue. Hope the below helps if you haven't already found it! The problem I understand is flex.

When she goes back together if you don't rivet you might want to ream the holes to a very tight interference fit and use a fine pitched HT steel bolt. Or these guys might help http://www.chassisalignment.co.uk/cold_riveting.htm "




Hi

thanks for those links very interesting, there wernt as many rivets as i was expecting,
on a crossmember there might be 4 bolts and 2 rivets, maybe they just bung 2 in to line it up ?
but l want this chassis to be as it left the factory, well apart from being painted properly lol

i am going to have a go at making a riveting tool like this one using water cut steel plates and a short stroke hyd ram, i dont see why it wont work,


i would like the chassis to flex more, well some would be nice its so stiff if you drive over a matchstick it lifts the wheel on the other side and you loose drive straight away, driving on a gravel carpark is nigh on impossible, guess its the down side to having a 4.5 ton payload, its too frigggin stiff,
i might be tempted to leave the anti roll bars off as they cant be helping or maybe even look at air bag suspension on the rear, that would give me the advantage of being able to drop the back to drive under the trailer to couple up

so what are you upto with an iveco then ?

cheers Andy

 

[CompoSimmonite]

Rather than a hydraulic ram you might be better using an air chisel with a bucking bar fitting -
http://www.autotoolworld.com/Ajax-Tools-A1605-14-Round-Head-Rivet-Chisel-_p_123079.html

Here is an article about chassis riveting -
http://www.darrylsgarage.com/wwiijeep/jeep-c2.htm

 

[Wendelspanswick]

Rather than a hydraulic ram you might be better using an air chisel with a bucking bar fitting -
http://www.autotoolworld.com/Ajax-Tools-A1605-14-Round-Head-Rivet-Chisel-_p_123079.html

Here is an article about chassis riveting -
http://www.darrylsgarage.com/wwiijeep/jeep-c2.htm

One of those won't get close to rounding a chassis rivet, that's what I used on the small aluminium rivets on the Austin Big 7 special and that was a struggle.

 

[kram44]

"Great work Baloo, I'm wanting to modify an Iveco 65 as a step up from the Transit and have researched the rivet issue. Hope the below helps if you haven't already found it! The problem I understand is flex.

When she goes back together if you don't rivet you might want to ream the holes to a very tight interference fit and use a fine pitched HT steel bolt. Or these guys might help http://www.chassisalignment.co.uk/cold_riveting.htm "




Hi

thanks for those links very interesting, there wernt as many rivets as i was expecting,
on a crossmember there might be 4 bolts and 2 rivets, maybe they just bung 2 in to line it up ?
but l want this chassis to be as it left the factory, well apart from being painted properly lol

i am going to have a go at making a riveting tool like this one using water cut steel plates and a short stroke hyd ram, i dont see why it wont work,


i would like the chassis to flex more, well some would be nice its so stiff if you drive over a matchstick it lifts the wheel on the other side and you loose drive straight away, driving on a gravel carpark is nigh on impossible, guess its the down side to having a 4.5 ton payload, its too frigggin stiff,
i might be tempted to leave the anti roll bars off as they cant be helping or maybe even look at air bag suspension on the rear, that would give me the advantage of being able to drop the back to drive under the trailer to couple up

so what are you upto with an iveco then ?

cheers Andy

Hi Andy,

Haven't bought one yet, just weighing up between a 65 and repairing the transit. Id like a flatbed to use for diy/work and was thinking of a motorhome style cab that had four extending legs so I could back under it for weekends away. The transit is good but soon gets overloaded. I plasma cut the sides out of a 2ton forklift skip and replaced with plywood. Makes a good lightweight tipper but could still do with a heavier truck.

Air suspension is the way to go, rather than just assist bags though the VB setup will give better high frequency isolation I'd imagine. easily copied!

Maybe I'll have to keep dreaming a while as the girlfriend is still giving me grief about the carport I bought...and the scissor lift :-)

I'm sure the ram will work but you might need a bit of heat. If you need a hand let me know I'm only Leicester way.

Look forward to the next update.

Mark

 

[Maker]

The hydraulic ram idea might work if the piston diameter is big enough but I think it would work better to use an air hammer/chisel but it will really depend on the size of the rivets, certainly cheaper to use the air hammer.

 

[kram44]

Good old youtube...homemade one works ok

 

[Baloo]

Good old youtube...homemade one works ok

thanks for those, as you say home made looks like it will work,
hunting around on ebay i found this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271705887150?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

too much money and i need 70mm between the jaws, i have a 4" dia ram and can tee off the tube bender for hyd power so its just the cost of some steel for the frame, maybe 50 quid,

will give you a shout if you want to come and practice on my chassis lol

 

[Robotstar5]

hunting around on ebay i found this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271705887150?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Unfortunate username for the seller?

 

[Baloo]

Unfortunate username for the seller?

lol yes good old dick

how about this, just chop up an old chisel and put a dome recess in and away we go ??

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400766128781?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Robotstar5]

That's a beast, luckily they hadn't invented HAVS ratings when that was made

 

[garethp]

I was going to suggest starting with red hot rivets to make the forming much easier but kram44 beat me to it, I seem to remember that a hot rivet will swell and fill the hole to get a better fit?

I've also seen an SDS drill used to form the heads (set to hammer only)