Richard.
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Maybe he did mean that. In which case that’s one hell of a cellllllllla.
- Thread starter HughF
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Richard.
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I think you’re right hood. That’s what he meant as he sounds pleased with its cell ability and 1/2 an inch of weld isn’t pleasing but a half inch arc length is. Goes to show ocv means very little really.
My Tweco has almost double the ocv of his TT yet it won’t run them well.
My Tweco has almost double the ocv of his TT yet it won’t run them well.
HughF
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It will whip out the puddle about 1/2 inch, which is really quite excessive (if you're whipping this much, you need to turn your heat down), and with the arc force turned up you can jam-it-in-there... not quite the same level of arc force as my mighty Midget (that will push a 1/8 lohy straight through 3/4 steel), but enough to get the job done.
As I said, not quite got the celly capability of an American engine drive (I've run a few lincolns and they all drive 6010 perfectly), but much better than a standard inverter.
As I said, not quite got the celly capability of an American engine drive (I've run a few lincolns and they all drive 6010 perfectly), but much better than a standard inverter.
HughF
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That looks very nice there Richard, good work. You mention the up/down increments being difficult to set on the standard torch, I find with the parweld pro grip, the buttons are nice and positive with a quick return. It is easy to step up and down the menu's with the torch buttons without overshoot.
Just trying out some abicor binzel universal tungsten, they seem to start up well, even with the ignition energy set down on the 1mm setting but with a 2.4 in the torch.
Just trying out some abicor binzel universal tungsten, they seem to start up well, even with the ignition energy set down on the 1mm setting but with a 2.4 in the torch.
Richard.
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That ignition setting is too abrupt on the ac . It’s set up for when people liked to weld Alu with big domed electrodes. In dc it’s probably not something to notice. In fairness it does a perfect job every time of producing an even shiny ball but it gives too much gas if you select the right size. I keep mine set 1 size below the actual size I’m using. On the mw it’s an ac tungsten prepping/balling tool.
Richard.
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Everything else on them overshoots. Not just the torch switch. The downslope is probably the worst one followed by the main current. Really sensitive pots.
It’s just one of its little quirks. all 3 of the ones I’ve had were the same.
Richard.
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That’s excellent Hugh and it goes to show they are quite different machines in a similar shell. I’ve tried cels on the mw2000 lots of times and it will run them but not too great. I’m glad to hear the tales I’ve read on the TT’s MMA are true. It’s no big deal for me mind. I rarely ever use a 6010.
HughF
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The bloody downslope timer pot is a total joke...
Compare this, which seems to give about 1.5s downslope:
With the big cousin:
Apart from the lack of an upslope timer (it just jumps to main current as soon as you lift off the button when in 4t) the hitachi panel has it sussed for ease of use.
Richard.
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The Fronius down slope isn’t difficult to use it’s just rather sensitive. It doesn’t matter where it sits on the panel as if you manage to keep the display up long enough to see it does show you on the digital read out what you set (for a second lol).
I’d imagine it’s easy enough to replace the pot for something less sensitive.
It would be better in the background settings like the upslope I suppose.
Richard.
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Ah. I didn’t realise that.
Yes as soon as I breathe on that pot it displays the down slope value. It’s very sensitive but at least I can set it accurately.
I’m surprised yours doesn’t. I would of thought they would of standardised that part of the panel.
HughF
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Yes, very odd that they are different in this aspect of functionality given that they share the same common control pcb with the same roms (all mine are marked 'mw' on the labels)
Edit: wait, do I need to be in the back menu to get it to display the downslope time?
Richard.
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Maybe the part of the circuit board that controlled that is where the drill hole is
HughF
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Unlikely, I think it more likely to be an omission from the firmware. Not to worry, I’m a set and forget kind of downslope person anyway
Richard.
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Try thisUnlikely, I think it more likely to be an omission from the firmware. Not to worry, I’m a set and forget kind of downslope person anyway
Go into the program 1 service prg.
Use the toggle switch till you see
Tst-fro.
Hit the up button on your torch.
Then you hit the toggle switch up once and it displays your down slope in the background menu and you can adjust it there with the down slope pot as well.
