Tree climbing kit?

[Kram]

Thanks for the link but I am intent on using my new plasma cutter and other tools to make some which will hopefully fit me and my boots better.

It occurs to me that it would be ideal to have boots with a hard point to attach spikes directly, much like cycling shoes have threaded holes and a hard sole for attaching cleats. I imagine a 3 part system of boots, the spikes, and a leg support which bolt together and negate the need for annoying leather straps. Does anything like that exist?

I had a job offer to be a groundy doing domestic work (mostly cleanup and long hours), with some very limited climbing. Its clear the boss is not willing to invest in me for tickets or even training time. Sounds like very little experince gain so for now staying where I am - no trees, but chance of getting assesments done, and finishing earlier so chance of doing evening stuff.

 

[mtt.tr]

You are set in what you want to do, that is fine but experience tells me its not worth the effort, The geckos are about the best you can get except the carbon fibre the straps are the least annoying parts, nut crushing from awkward leaning ranks far higher.

Unfortunately you wont find anyone to pay for tickets, unless the pay is minimal long hours are to be expected its the nature of the work. What work are you currently in?

 

[Agrismith]

Thanks for the link but I am intent on using my new plasma cutter and other tools to make some which will hopefully fit me and my boots better.

It occurs to me that it would be ideal to have boots with a hard point to attach spikes directly, much like cycling shoes have threaded holes and a hard sole for attaching cleats. I imagine a 3 part system of boots, the spikes, and a leg support which bolt together and negate the need for annoying leather straps. Does anything like that exist?

I had a job offer to be a groundy doing domestic work (mostly cleanup and long hours), with some very limited climbing. Its clear the boss is not willing to invest in me for tickets or even training time. Sounds like very little experince gain so for now staying where I am - no trees, but chance of getting assesments done, and finishing earlier so chance of doing evening stuff.

Look up racing spikes ( or atleast try as I don't know there correct name)
They use the threaded holes in the bottom of football boots to attach to. No good for conventional climbing as the spike is on the front of the toes not the side but they are the concept you are after

 

[Kram]

Oh I have a pair of Adidas XCS's but not in any way suitable for tree work. Spikes on the sole, so you'd have to climb with your knees out to get spikes into the trunk. The spikes are small so I guess wouldnt cause any significant injury to cambium unlike climbing spikes.

Sole spikes might be useful for branch walking or crawling up a limb as I found I dont have much grip!

I have been dodging the rain but this is what I've done so far

Ignore the cracked bend, I have cut that off and will bolt some sheet on, for the strap loop.

 

[Agrismith]

Oh I have a pair of Adidas XCS's but not in any way suitable for tree work. Spikes on the sole, so you'd have to climb with your knees out to get spikes into the trunk. The spikes are small so I guess wouldnt cause any significant injury to cambium unlike climbing spikes.

Sole spikes might be useful for branch walking or crawling up a limb as I found I dont have much grip!

The racing spikes just use the holes to bolt a conventional spike too. It's just moved round to the toe rather than the ankle position. And the support up the side of the leg is telescopic so you can't roll your ankle but can still move your foot up and down

Oregon chainsaw boots have spiked plates that bolt into the arch for grip walking on logs

 

[mtt.tr]

I would strongly advice damage the bark on any tree other than a tree you are removing

 

[Kram]

Yes, I'm not going to spike a tree that is being kept.

 

[Norsk]

Truth is that even after passing all your climbing tickets you will be so slow and unproductive that you will cost the boss in wages and breakages.

I have been climbing and logging for 27 years,a business owner for 16 and I don't take on new starts anymore. You can earn quite well in this game or cost alot more than your worth very quickly.

I don't know you or your circumstances but if your looking for an "in" volunteer to local firms for Saturday work. That way they and you can sound each other out.

 

[Kram]

The local tree inspector has offered to do my training (instead of assessments), he plans to train two other guys and will get his friend over to do assesments. Dont know the cost yet but seems good.

I have a new tree removal project, neighbour of a friend. Big dying poplar with ivy, ganoderma? conks and decay. I'll strip some ivy off and try to get a better look at it.

Safe to climb?

 

[mtt.tr]

Be careful, pops and willows go from standing to mush pretty quickly.

If in doubt it's a mewp job or clear fell

 

[Mike Pinches]

Kram, without wanting to seem like a killjoy you are an unqualified and inexperienced climber carrying out work in the dark, and I'm guessing without any one to perform aerial rescue, probably no public liability insurance, and have already cut through your rope once before. You are asking trouble keeping on like that. Some of the things you are talking about, such as spikes on the soles, aren't necessary (there is a reason no one does them) as with good technique, anchors in the right place etc then you can get out over most branches, even sopping wet algae covered ones.

If you really want to get into tree work (and I know why you would as I miss climbing but was forced to stop due to Raynaud's/HAVS) then you are best to take the financial hit and get some proper experience as a groundy first, watch and learn from the climbers your work with. Learn to anticipate what the climber will need next and be ready for it, effective tree work is partnership between the groundy and climber. A good climber will be unproductive with a rubbish groundy, and a good groundy will be stood idle with poor climber.

Until you have the experience you will likely cost any firm you work for money, so to start you will not be paid well, I started on £70 a day and spent a lot of my time feeding the chipper but as I proved my worth I got more responsibility, as well as building relationships with the companies I subbied for. I did have 1 firm who gave me the majority of my work and they did pay for a couple of courses for me, or the odd bit of extra kit as bonuses for jobs going well, such as finishing trunk roads jobs a day ahead of schedule so traffic management could be removed early. After about 4 years I was upto £120-£150 a day depending on the job/who I was working for.

As an aside, the equipment you turn up with to a job will have an impact on how you are received, or if you are given more work. If you are subbing for contractor you will be working under their insurance, so turning up with homemade equipment, cheap Chinese knockoffs that might not have CE approval etc would all lead to a lot of hassle for the contractor if there was an accident and HSE turn up to investigate.

 

[Kram]

Inspected a bit more, cut some of he ivy.

Does not sound hollow but bark is soft. From my reading, this ganoderma makes a tree soft and bendy and it does look like that has happened.

I prefer the idea of ground felling it. There is space, its a long garden, but a fence panel and some wooden posts may need to be temporarily moved or replaced if they get damaged.

Chainsaw bramble clearance.

 

[mtt.tr]

I would be very cautious.

Consider you cut for a gob and it's pulpy inside now what?
Or you get to the last felling cut and it's pulpy out back no chance of levering or wedging at this point.

Im not trying to be awkward or unhelpful there really is a lot to be considered and most of it comes from guidance and experience

 

[Kram]

Noticed my chainsaw bar is getting worn as well as the sprocket. Ordered a cheapy amazon 14" bar and 4 chains set, and another 16" oregon bar.

Would anyone know what I need for the sprocket? And a good shop to buy from? McCullock cs340. Its Husqvarna style with the chain brake on the cover and flywheel above the sprocket.

 

[mtt.tr]

Had a firm book me for an urgent job. Tree has been restrained best they could. Rocking at the root plate. Luckily I can clear fell it, from what I'm told it needs to be pretty precise. Will know Monday.

Noticed my chainsaw bar is getting worn as well as the sprocket. Ordered a cheapy amazon 14" bar and 4 chains set, and another 16" oregon bar.

Would anyone know what I need for the sprocket? And a good shop to buy from? McCullock cs340. Its Husqvarna style with the chain brake on the cover and flywheel above the sprocket.

How much wear, mine run until the sprocket teeth are pointy

Bar I just file mine, square the rail, profile the nose then knock the edges down. Have you flipped the bar over yet? I get about a year or more from some of my bars.

 

[Kram]

Yeah I flip bar every time I do mainenence and cleaning/sharpening, deburr with flat file if I noticed a raised edge.

Just been to a small felling "lesson", tbh its a waste of time so far as Im with two complete beginners, who never used a saw - they have no control and cant manage to hold the bar straight, so eating up all the time on poor saw control. Trainer should get them to practise crosscut on felled wood for a few hours before they learn any more advanced stuff. Their dad runs a tree business and they are groundies, but he wont let them use saws without tickets.

I got to fell one small tree in 3 hours.

Missed the delivery of my 020T

 

[mike os]

Missed the delivery of my 020T

Darn it ...

 

[Kram]

I'm quite annoyed with myself.. missed it by about 20 mins! The others had just gone out and I was on my way home.

 

[Kram]

Had a firm book me for an urgent job. Tree has been restrained best they could. Rocking at the root plate. Luckily I can clear fell it, from what I'm told it needs to be pretty precise. Will know Monday.


How much wear, mine run until the sprocket teeth are pointy

Bar I just file mine, square the rail, profile the nose then knock the edges down. Have you flipped the bar over yet? I get about a year or more from some of my bars.

I need to deburr the original bar.
Chinese 14" bar with 4 chains £23 total. It has a much wider nose than the original, but should be good for general abuse.

Sprocket doesnt look as bad as I thought after a closer look.

 

[mtt.tr]

Both are serviceable, I'll take a pic of my knackered one tomorrow