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Screwdriver
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Yeah it's a double whammy in this case. The strength is fine at 2mm wall thickness but I want to take it down to 1.2mm and that will make things tricky. I may have a play with hot air washing or super low temperature for a longer time etc.
Most of the strength in these FDM designs (I think!) comes from the orientation of the layers with respect to the physical design. Next on the list is the precise recipe during the deposition process, layer thickness, temperature, speeds and feeds etc. I may be preaching to the choir but this is all new to me and I find it fascinating so bear with me while I discover this for myself.
What I found most surprising with this super cheap Ender 3 is that you can produce decent models right out of the box. Very reasonable print quality for very little effort plus they are pretty strong without having to try too hard to make them robust. But there are HUGE gains to be made just with the application of a little forethought and/or post production - easily in the order of 40%. So you can have much stronger prints or use a lot less material and time to achieve the same result.
Great fun.
Screwdriver
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Yes I agree, the prints are noticeably better with the same model using the same settings. Almost night and day different.
Here's that last print in a harsh light.
The banding is caused by choosing dynamic quality setting in Cura.
Screwdriver
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I see TOT is now on the bandwagon...
daedalusminos
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At least his MK3s works!
Screwdriver
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Interestingly thicker layers are also stronger because there are fewer points of failure. For my spiralised drawer inserts I set the line width to 0.8mm, even with a 0,4 nozzle...
There is a limit to how wide you should go in relation to nozzle size. I can't remember what it is now, but I think 0.8mm on a 0.4mm nozzle is pushing it. I'm no expert, so if it works, it works.
I'm part way through assembling my prusa bear kit. Will report back on nozzle stuff once it's up and running.
Screwdriver
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Printed at 0.8mm line width, spiralised (single line) mode with 0.4mm nozzle. They are certainly strong enough.
Printed at 0.8mm line width, spiralised (single line) mode with 0.4mm nozzle. They are certainly strong enough.
What's your layer height?
Screwdriver
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Not in front of the machine but I guess 0.2mm (low quality). Those boxes are designed for speed.
just checked low quality but 0.28mm layer height.
just checked low quality but 0.28mm layer height.
Screwdriver
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Ohh, that’s interesting. I’ll give that a try thanks.
I use 0.8 for ABS Pro.
I have just purchased another Ender 2 so I can use PeTG and don't have to keep changing nozzles
What you printing them with? Filament.
Printed at 0.8mm line width, spiralised (single line) mode with 0.4mm nozzle. They are certainly strong enough.
Have you got the thingiverse link?
Screwdriver
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yes in this thread - PETG direct from PRUSA, it was on special offer.
the “design” for those box inserts is literally just a solid 50.5 square x 20 or 40, 110 for the longer ones. They fit some Allit boxes I happen to have a fair few of. All of the hard work was in coming up with the settings for spiral mode to get the times down while keeping the boxes sturdy.
Are you happy to share the settings. I have a couple of rolls of PetG to test
Screwdriver
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Are you happy to share the settings. I have a couple of rolls of PetG to test
Sure. Err, it's a Cura file so I'll try that as an attachment and see what happens...
Nothing happened. I'll see if I can upload a file by pm then resort to a dropbox link or something...
Screwdriver
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Are you happy to share the settings. I have a couple of rolls of PetG to test
Sure. Err, it's a Cura file so I'll try that as an attachment and see what happens...
Nothing happened. I'll see if I can upload a file by pm then resort to a dropbox link or something...
Ok try this: https://www.dropbox.com/s/cprvbb24x6doczp/Allit insert 50.5 x 20.3mf?dl=0
Hood
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Just for future reference, you can zip files that won't attach, well as long as they are within the file size limit.
