Screwdriver
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Are you happy to share the settings. I have a couple of rolls of PetG to test
what happened?
- Thread starter Screwdriver
- Start date
what happened?
With my test?
Screwdriver
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Chris Snow
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Pretty good, gone through a few litres of resin now.
As with all 3d printers it takes a bit of fiddling with parameters but once you figure it out it's fairly reliable.
The wash and cure kit is a bit expensive for what it is but makes it a lot less messy!
Not tried thingiverse, I've been making my own models in Fusion 360 then slicing with ChiTuBox (accepts most 3D formats)
The only thing I haven't worked around in post processing is that XY faces grow by around 0.1mm due to optics, not a big issue though if you are aware.
Not had time to try it yet mate.That recent near miss with an asteroid...
Of course the test!
This Zara piccasso ABS is doing my head I. Taking up so much time.
Screwdriver
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Ouch! ABS, jumping in at the deep end then...
Not really it's the Braking system on my dads car.
brewdexta
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I got about 7 hours through a 10 hour print and the spool of PLA jammed and the print failed. The spool was near the end and the filament go trapped down the side of the inside of the spool, could happen any time. So getting the filament detector working properly is now higher on my priority list. Here's the sensor fitted, I may move it later as I may feed the filament from the top not the side now I have a direct drive extruder but it will do until I get the firmware working.
Inside there is a grooved wheel and a wheel with holes in it that pinch the filament. An IR LED shines through the holes to an optical detector which toggles the signal pin. If the extruder is pushing filament to the hot-end, or trying to, and the signal pin is not being toggled then the filament has either run-out or is jammed. I printed a new back on for it that included a bracket to bolt it the Z axis.
Here's the current filament path, not ideal but works for now, I'll probably turn the bracket around that holds the spool so it feeds vertically down on the near side of the top rail, I may have to raise it a bit so i can get the filament sensor in.
I bought the filament detector from the same manufacturer as the new main board so nothing can go wrong, can it The new main board is a BigTreeTech SKR E3 mini v2.0 and I've compiled the latest Marlin firmware using Visual Studio code and PlatformIO for the bare board, then with additional features like the bed leveling probe. However the filament sensor is being a bit of a bitch, and I'm not the only one having issues. There is a socket on the board recommended for it, the E0-Stop which uses pin PC15, I've edited all the correct files after sifting through thousands of comments on github, reddit and the company's own facebook group. No go. There is a PT-DET socket but this is only 2 wire not 3 wire, some people have had success using this by patching 5v in from elsewhere but you need to amend some code as there was a bug in Marlin where pin PC12 was in use by something else for a while on boot so you have to re-initialise it before use. I think there may be a proper fix in Marlin now so may download that before the next attempt. I may also try the manufacturers own branch of Marlin but others are struggling with this too so sounds like the sensor hasn't been tested on the latest board, but i like a challenge.
Next it is time to check that the sensor works. I've tried the usual G119 g-code commands before and after inverting the logic in the firmware and its not changing state when you move the filament, or cut the filament, at least as far as the printer is concerned. I'm busy on the kitchen still and that takes priority, but I'll check the ground and 5v today and I think I can use the crest feature on my multimeter to check the signal pin being toggled, if not I may buy a Picoscope USB Oscilloscope as it will come in handy, probably the 2205A, I may get one of these anyway as they come in handy and will work with Windoze or Linux.
While testing I did print out a couple of these, they are the clips that hold the tow hitch socket cover on the back of the Disco 3, I'm always losing or breaking them. As aesthetics are not important underneath a rusty Land Rover I printed it without supports to save time/PLA, a bit of droop on the overhang but worked perfectly.
Cheers
Andy
Inside there is a grooved wheel and a wheel with holes in it that pinch the filament. An IR LED shines through the holes to an optical detector which toggles the signal pin. If the extruder is pushing filament to the hot-end, or trying to, and the signal pin is not being toggled then the filament has either run-out or is jammed. I printed a new back on for it that included a bracket to bolt it the Z axis.
Here's the current filament path, not ideal but works for now, I'll probably turn the bracket around that holds the spool so it feeds vertically down on the near side of the top rail, I may have to raise it a bit so i can get the filament sensor in.
I bought the filament detector from the same manufacturer as the new main board so nothing can go wrong, can it
The new main board is a BigTreeTech SKR E3 mini v2.0 and I've compiled the latest Marlin firmware using Visual Studio code and PlatformIO for the bare board, then with additional features like the bed leveling probe. However the filament sensor is being a bit of a bitch, and I'm not the only one having issues. There is a socket on the board recommended for it, the E0-Stop which uses pin PC15, I've edited all the correct files after sifting through thousands of comments on github, reddit and the company's own facebook group. No go. There is a PT-DET socket but this is only 2 wire not 3 wire, some people have had success using this by patching 5v in from elsewhere but you need to amend some code as there was a bug in Marlin where pin PC12 was in use by something else for a while on boot so you have to re-initialise it before use. I think there may be a proper fix in Marlin now so may download that before the next attempt. I may also try the manufacturers own branch of Marlin but others are struggling with this too so sounds like the sensor hasn't been tested on the latest board, but i like a challenge.Next it is time to check that the sensor works. I've tried the usual G119 g-code commands before and after inverting the logic in the firmware and its not changing state when you move the filament, or cut the filament, at least as far as the printer is concerned. I'm busy on the kitchen still and that takes priority, but I'll check the ground and 5v today and I think I can use the crest feature on my multimeter to check the signal pin being toggled, if not I may buy a Picoscope USB Oscilloscope as it will come in handy, probably the 2205A, I may get one of these anyway as they come in handy and will work with Windoze or Linux.
While testing I did print out a couple of these, they are the clips that hold the tow hitch socket cover on the back of the Disco 3, I'm always losing or breaking them. As aesthetics are not important underneath a rusty Land Rover I printed it without supports to save time/PLA, a bit of droop on the overhang but worked perfectly.
Cheers
Andy
Screwdriver
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IKWYM
daedalusminos
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Since fitting the replacement EinsyRambo control board the MK3s hasn't missed a beat. Some lovely results during shakedown printing in PLA and the generic ABS settings gave good results.
That's great news. That bearing thing is amazing, we've got a couple kicking about and people are always amazed it's printed as one.
Screwdriver
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Oh well that's Fusion 360 off my list of software to invest time in.
Thats what I said. I am trying to find out if the OU counts as education.
You can register for a startup business too, no issues
Told you it was the board.
