What are you machining?

[Johnnybravo]

for stainless I normally cheat a bit... sharpen up a drill a lot more pointy than normal (can't remember the name for this)

drill slow and push hard, normally works really well

That’s it in a nutshell,the push hard ,bit. It’s the push hard bit where most people go wrong. Stainless doesn’t have a sense of humour and doesn’t respond well to being tickled, it’s very easy to rub it up the wrong way....

 

[Johnnybravo]

I'm on the lookout for a cnc mill now as it would open up the world for me making prototype parts for the stockcar, I don't really know how to use one yet but I usually pick things up quickly.

I might have exactly what you are looking for.
I have a bigger version of a Bridgeport made by King Rich. They are an old ,well regarded foundry/machine tool manufacturer in Taiwan, who manufacture machines for a lot of the well known brands. 5hp motor if I remember correctly. It’s got an ISO 40 spindle on it, you can use 40int tooling or bt40 tooling with a pullstud adaptor. It’s got a airdrawbar, so press the bottom and drop the tool out. Fitted with a two axis Prototrak cnc controller,with digital read out on all three axis’s. Powered ,non cnc rise and fall of the knee,all new bearings in there. . Very good way of bridging the gap between conventional and cnc milling. Can use it as a manual machine or cnc. Very versatile. Even though I have a 4 axis mill with 24 tool toolchanger and a 5 axis lathe with 22 tools, I wouldn’t be without this style of mill,( I have two of them, but need space!).

Programming is really easy,from bolthole patterns etc,the servos position the table,you manually drill once in position. Press the button and it moves to the next co ordinate. Milling has a couple of cycles,from straight lines to arcs, pockets to frames. Can machine any 2d profile you can draw. All spares still available.

The particular machine I want to get rid of,( which stupid as it may sound,is the better one of the two,but the other one has sentimental value to me), has had the Slideways reground,new turcite etc. Was the last job out of Slideway services shop last December when Brian Caddy retired. It’s been used about two hours since.Its a really nice,sturdy machine. Ideal for small batch work or prototype kind of work.

You are more than welcome to come and have a play. It’s all wired up,not hastily connected in the back of a machine dealers warehouse. For the right kind of money,I will let it go. Probably could find a bit of tooling for you as well,but with bt40 stuff being cheaper than R8,it’s not a huge outlay to get well tooled up.

 

[Woody.v8]

I might have exactly what you are looking for.
I have a bigger version of a Bridgeport made by King Rich. They are an old ,well regarded foundry/machine tool manufacturer in Taiwan, who manufacture machines for a lot of the well known brands. 5hp motor if I remember correctly. It’s got an ISO 40 spindle on it, you can use 40int tooling or bt40 tooling with a pullstud adaptor. It’s got a airdrawbar, so press the bottom and drop the tool out. Fitted with a two axis Prototrak cnc controller,with digital read out on all three axis’s. Powered ,non cnc rise and fall of the knee,all new bearings in there. . Very good way of bridging the gap between conventional and cnc milling. Can use it as a manual machine or cnc. Very versatile. Even though I have a 4 axis mill with 24 tool toolchanger and a 5 axis lathe with 22 tools, I wouldn’t be without this style of mill,( I have two of them, but need space!).

Programming is really easy,from bolthole patterns etc,the servos position the table,you manually drill once in position. Press the button and it moves to the next co ordinate. Milling has a couple of cycles,from straight lines to arcs, pockets to frames. Can machine any 2d profile you can draw. All spares still available.

The particular machine I want to get rid of,( which stupid as it may sound,is the better one of the two,but the other one has sentimental value to me), has had the Slideways reground,new turcite etc. Was the last job out of Slideway services shop last December when Brian Caddy retired. It’s been used about two hours since.Its a really nice,sturdy machine. Ideal for small batch work or prototype kind of work.

You are more than welcome to come and have a play. It’s all wired up,not hastily connected in the back of a machine dealers warehouse. For the right kind of money,I will let it go. Probably could find a bit of tooling for you as well,but with bt40 stuff being cheaper than R8,it’s not a huge outlay to get well tooled up.

I am interested, feel free to PM me a rough price to see if I can afford it , and if you have any pictures would be good.

 

[Johnnybravo]

I am interested, feel free to PM me a rough price to see if I can afford it , and if you have any pictures would be good.

Will pm you tonight after work

 

[Kram]

Now have a sore thumb from turning the wheel too much!

 

[pressbrake1]

That’s it in a nutshell,the push hard ,bit. It’s the push hard bit where most people go wrong. Stainless doesn’t have a sense of humour and doesn’t respond well to being tickled, it’s very easy to rub it up the wrong way....

With any material smaller cuts and slower feeds just wear your cutters out quicker!

 

[Hood]

With any material smaller cuts and slower feeds just wear your cutters out quicker!

Aye, I did a vid to demonstrate it for a friend.
Can't recall the spindle speed but I think the DOC was 2mm and again can't recall the feed speeds but one was slow the other a bit faster
The difference is night and day.

 

[Turbo]

Now have a sore thumb from turning the wheel too much!

Make yourself an adaptor to use a cordless drill to turn the wheel.

 

[Kram]

After I spent ages trying to clock the next pulley blank, just couldnt get the face to run true. Tapping and adjusting it with no luck.
Never any issue indicating an OD or ID but faces always a pain.

 

[Spark plug]

 

[Hood]

Always just slipped a piece of bronze bar between the toolpost and the part and used that, maybe one day I will do it properly and make up a tool with bearing

 

[Johnnybravo]

Always just slipped a piece of bronze bar between the toolpost and the part and used that, maybe one day I will do it properly and make up a tool with bearing

I have always used a bearing and assumed everybody else did too

 

[Hood]

I have always used a bearing and assumed everybody else did too

I like to be different

 

[Kram]

I might try that tonight, will a used 6204 wheel bearing do the job? Got several spare.

Both pleased and annoyed. This was a roughing cut tooo many, but dead on -if I wasnt intending a press fit, aiming for 74.8mm Any quick simple fix? The pulley OD will be turned after it is permently mounted.
Keyway and grub screw?

 

[rory1]

Bore it out for a taper lock?

 

[Wedg1e]

Bore out to 3" + 1.6mm, knurl the bore then shrink-fit it onto a sleeve of helically-splined unobtanium.



Sorry

 

[Turbo]

Saw that before, a great idea & keep meaning to make one!

 

[Johnnybravo]

I like to be different

Is that why your lathe tools are always upside down and you turn in reverse, and from the chuck towards the tailstock?

 

[Hood]

Is that why your lathe tools are always upside down and you turn in reverse, and from the chuck towards the tailstock?

Nah, that's because I wear my specs upside down

 

[Johnnybravo]

Nah, that's because I wear my specs upside down

Very funny you should mention that....
Last year we were in Australia for a couple of weeks. One trip was out on a boat to go snorkelling off an island on the Great Barrier Reef. Whilst on the boat you could collect all your gear,snorkels,fins,masks etc. And my sons comment on one of the Oriental gentlemen that was also going snorkelling? “ For supposedly the nation with the highest number of extremely bright individuals,they sure do breed some dumb ones...”.
Yep, you guessed it,he was happily wearing his mask upside down ,but couldn’t figure out how the snorkel went through the bump that normally covers your nose...