- Thread starter Kram
- Start date
E T
Member
- Messages
- 475
- Location
- Netherlands
Made a knurling tool. Got the plans for €5 from this Canadian guy. https://d-gray-drafting-and-design.myshopify.com/
Build it from the offcuts I have in the shed. The only things I had to buy were the spring and two good quality HSS-CO knurling wheels.
I must say it does make a nice knurl.
E T
Member
- Messages
- 475
- Location
- Netherlands
The brand is Integi. From Spain apparently.
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
- Messages
- 1,123
- Location
- Hampshire
Power feed motor is burnt out on the Bridgeport mill i acquired and replacement motors a fortune could get it rewound but contoller board smells fried too to decided to bin it all. An option would be a chinese power feed but one with an adapter for the shortened lead screw are a lot more money.
Decided to go down a different route still Chinese but using components i can easily replace , I worked out I need about a 120w 24v motor turning at 3000rpm to match the old motor usually £20 to £25
just had to cut the old motor off the input to the 8F housing its a wierd size 12.7mm
Then a simple case of machining an adapter for the scooter motor . Luckily theres a lip on the input housing and the outside is 4" lip is at 98mm so gives enough meat off a section off 4" bar i cut down, on the other side of the adapter is a recess the same size as the front of the motor so everything parallel
I found a small flexible coupling that machined out to 12.7mm the other end same as motor shaft
I think its worked out well add a speed controller and 24v power supply still under £100
Ive used this controller so easy to wire the forward reverse into the original lever that controls direction and has a bar on the front with adjustable stops
Decided to go down a different route still Chinese but using components i can easily replace , I worked out I need about a 120w 24v motor turning at 3000rpm to match the old motor usually £20 to £25
just had to cut the old motor off the input to the 8F housing its a wierd size 12.7mm
Then a simple case of machining an adapter for the scooter motor . Luckily theres a lip on the input housing and the outside is 4" lip is at 98mm so gives enough meat off a section off 4" bar i cut down, on the other side of the adapter is a recess the same size as the front of the motor so everything parallel
I found a small flexible coupling that machined out to 12.7mm the other end same as motor shaft
I think its worked out well add a speed controller and 24v power supply still under £100
Ive used this controller so easy to wire the forward reverse into the original lever that controls direction and has a bar on the front with adjustable stops
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,303
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Otherwise known as 1/2"
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,303
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Many years ago I was contemplating making some feed drives for my manual Bridgeport many moons ago and as I searched around I thought why the heck am I bothering, why not just go the whole way and do a CNC, that was my very first retrofit 
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
- Messages
- 1,123
- Location
- Hampshire
whats odd is 90% of a Bridgeport is metric ALL the bearings and shafts are I guess because designed by SwedesOtherwise known as 1/2"
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
- Messages
- 1,123
- Location
- Hampshire
I was tempted but maybe one dayMany years ago I was contemplating making some feed drives for my manual Bridgeport many moons ago and as I searched around I thought why the heck am I bothering, why not just go the whole way and do a CNC, that was my very first retrofit
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,303
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
It has been a long time since I had Bridgeports but I thought mine were imperial but maybe I am just not remembering correctly.whats odd is 90% of a Bridgeport is metric ALL the bearings and shafts are I guess because designed by Swedes
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
- Messages
- 1,123
- Location
- Hampshire
I thought it would be but i crossed checked with suppliers in the states and all standard metric codes, some have special grinds on faces though for preload which is why they are 4x as much
wyn
Member
- Messages
- 3,651
- Location
- Cardiff
Repaired this combine knife drive the other day.
A tapered ball joint fits in this bit but the hole was in a mess.
I welded the ball joint and this bit together in the field so he could finish.
Once the field was done i had this bit and the ball joint off and cut them apart.
Welded the hole up fully then machined it back out with the required taper on my lashed together jig.
This part wasn't available for a couple of weeks and £600. I think they were probably going to have to make one. They did have the ball joint. The combine is about 30 years old.
A tapered ball joint fits in this bit but the hole was in a mess.
I welded the ball joint and this bit together in the field so he could finish.
Once the field was done i had this bit and the ball joint off and cut them apart.
Welded the hole up fully then machined it back out with the required taper on my lashed together jig.
This part wasn't available for a couple of weeks and £600. I think they were probably going to have to make one. They did have the ball joint. The combine is about 30 years old.
Sergei Slovenija
Member
- Messages
- 1,267
- Location
- Slovenija Ljubljana
or .50 calOtherwise known as 1/2"
E T
Member
- Messages
- 475
- Location
- Netherlands
Next bit of tinkering was a rotating earth clamp like Kurtis from CEE uses.
Only thing left to do is drill and tap a M 12 hole in the rotating bronze contact, but also thinking about putting a knurl on the bronze bits just for looks.
What do you lot think? Knurl the brass contacts or leave the plain?
Only thing left to do is drill and tap a M 12 hole in the rotating bronze contact, but also thinking about putting a knurl on the bronze bits just for looks.
What do you lot think? Knurl the brass contacts or leave the plain?
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,514
- Location
- Cumbria
DIY machine torch for the plasma. Saved myself around £700 over buying a "proper" SL100 torch. 40mm delrin bar, bored and threaded to suit a new torch body, then assembled using the lead off my spare hand torch. No idea if it works yet... will be a week or two before I get back to it.
