The reason for purchasing the zb-mini.2 is because it does not need a neutral ( but I don't know why)
I have to admit I don't know what you mean by Lin and S1 are connected internally.
- Thread starter ukracer
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I have to admit I don't know what you mean by Lin and S1 are connected internally.
One reason is almost all ( just the toilet isnt) the lights are this double switched system. So I really need to learn, in case I need to add more smart switches later.
Plus my sons mate is a sparky and is not sure how to fit it.
And if the one I employ is the same I will be wasting money.
daedalusminos
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It doesn't need neutral, it will pass a small current through the load to derive the internal voltage required for operation. That can cause an issue with LED bulbs but this module has a low min load requirement.
Ermmm.... exactly what I said....the module only needs the three connections live in, load out and a switched live.
Ermmm.... exactly what I said....the module only needs the three connections live in, load out and a switched live.
daedalusminos
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...and there is a slight problem, you can't wire this behind one of the light switches since you (almost certainly) won't have all connections available....no matter which switch you use.
If you want to maintain 2 way switch control the easiest may be to wire this at the ceiling rose.
Now that makes sense (not that I needed to know,) but it helps to get my head back round things.
Ah written like that I think I understand now. It doesn't need all 4 connections.
This is deja vu
Either you or someone else has said that before. Yes it was you.
I was happy to just use one switch. T the new one.
I was encouraged by previous replies that seemed to indicated I could install it by behind the one switch if I was happy with one way switch control.
daedalusminos
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You want to do something like this....
As has already been stated you need to verify what you have.
As has already been stated you need to verify what you have.
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Those used to be a nice little earner in my early days as a sparky "I've changed the light fitting now it won't turn off"
MetalMonkey
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Those used to be a nice little earner in my early days as a sparky "I've changed the light fitting now it won't turn off"
Had one the other day, two way lighting not working properly, would only switch on and off from one (2 gang) switch and on but not off from another (3 gang), and they were upside down.
It "stopped working", me looking at recent tiling around switch - did it stop working after it was re-tiled by any chance? "Maybe..." Uh huh....
It wasn't even using the feed from the right circuit, was using the one next to it
MetalMonkey
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Does this help? @ukracer
This is assuming that it is wired as I suspect with the twin and earth as a strapper - but you do need to check and work out what is going on and which is the loop from the pendant, and which goes back to the light.
I'm not familiar with these wifi switch things or how your switches are wired, so don’t blame me if you electrocute yourself or burn your house down etc.
But if I have understood correctly, just looking at the diagram you posted then this might be an option for you.
In either case you will be losing either Switch A or Switch B.
However, first things first, verify how your existing wiring works.
This is assuming that it is wired as I suspect with the twin and earth as a strapper - but you do need to check and work out what is going on and which is the loop from the pendant, and which goes back to the light.
I'm not familiar with these wifi switch things or how your switches are wired, so don’t blame me if you electrocute yourself or burn your house down etc.
But if I have understood correctly, just looking at the diagram you posted then this might be an option for you.
In either case you will be losing either Switch A or Switch B.
However, first things first, verify how your existing wiring works.
daedalusminos
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Just to add, totally replacing the switch as @MetalMonkey middle schematic makes sense as it will likely fit in the back box with just a blanking plate covering it. However, it's worth keeping in mind signal strength....if it's hidden behind a fridge freezer in a metal back box then it's not going to help. There's few things worse than unreliable home automation....well there's lots of things worse but it's incredibly frustrating!
