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langy
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Yep got a broken one from being dropped too 
You can get the spares quite cheaply from B&D though.
You can get the spares quite cheaply from B&D though.
I've only just seen this (not sure how). I only read to page 14 so i'll check the rest later.
Amazing attention to detail and quality. Not sure if these questions have been asked.
Is it yours or a customers?
How many hours will go into this? What would it cost/be worth?
PM me if you like. Awesome project, I wish I could spend so long on something, but I don't get the time. At the same time, I'm also glad I don't have to spend so much time as well.
Amazing attention to detail and quality. Not sure if these questions have been asked.
Is it yours or a customers?
How many hours will go into this? What would it cost/be worth?
PM me if you like. Awesome project, I wish I could spend so long on something, but I don't get the time. At the same time, I'm also glad I don't have to spend so much time as well.
langy
langys rodshop
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No problem Rick, Its my own car, to be honest i don't think anyone could afford me to build it for them due to hours involved.
I try not to think about hours as i often only work on it when i have spare time.
Total cost i don't know but my last one done in a similair style owes me £15,400 finished, It makes a huge difference that i do virtually everything my self which keeps the cost down considerably.
Whats it worth ??? I havn't a clue and i'm not that bothered as its for me. I may sell on one day.
Heres my last build, 1932 Ford roadster
I try not to think about hours as i often only work on it when i have spare time.
Total cost i don't know but my last one done in a similair style owes me £15,400 finished, It makes a huge difference that i do virtually everything my self which keeps the cost down considerably.
Whats it worth ??? I havn't a clue and i'm not that bothered as its for me. I may sell on one day.
Heres my last build, 1932 Ford roadster
I've only just seen this (not sure how). I only read to page 14 so i'll check the rest later.
Amazing attention to detail and quality. Not sure if these questions have been asked.
Is it yours or a customers?
How many hours will go into this? What would it cost/be worth?
PM me if you like. Awesome project, I wish I could spend so long on something, but I don't get the time. At the same time, I'm also glad I don't have to spend so much time as well.
langy
langys rodshop
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Yes Rick its a weekend trailer, They were very popular in the 40's, They are known as a Teardrop trailer, I built it about 10 years ago.
langy
langys rodshop
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- 6,095
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langy
langys rodshop
- Messages
- 6,095
- Location
- London
Well was hoping to get a fair bit done over the xmas break but catching a nasty virus scuppered most of the work planned but i did get to sort out my PCV valve, make a timing pointer and my generator parts back from the chromer so at least i could get the body copper flaked and it all reassembled.
The PCV valve is in the rear of the lifter gallery and is screwed into a tapped hole via a 90 degree adaptor. A simple box baffle was bolted in place on the inside.
I had a stock steel timing pointer which i had hoped to chrome but it was too bent and twisted so took measurements from it and machined one from a big hunk and my mate engraved the degree marks on it for me.
The pulleys on a Cadillac are cast steel and incredibly heavy so before chroming I got them on the lathe and put them on a diet.
The water pump pulley weighed in at 2.25 lbs and after machining it was down to 1.5 lbs, a lot better.
Unfortunately the chromer thought it mounnted the other way around so didn't polish the bolt face so a stainless finisher was made up to cover it.
Here its mounted on the old dummy pump as my new aluminium pump isn't here yet.
Somebody asked how the fan gaurd was held in place so here you can see the small tabs that are accesse through the gaurd holes.
The mounting plate that bolts to the block was also put on a diet as i wasn't happy with the shape, better now.
The generator body was cleaned completely back to bare metal and received 2 coats of epoxy primer and 3 coats of 2k hi build, this was then flatted off and the base coat applied followed by the flake coats and finally 6 coats of clear applied in 2 sessions of 3 coats, I've left it in gun finish as its super smooth.
Lechlar primers & Max Meyer lacquers were used.
The squre headed special bolts that hold the magnets in place had been installed by a gorilla in the past and were pretty burred up so a couple of polished stainless buttons were made up and epoxy glued in place to tidy them up.
Happy new year
The PCV valve is in the rear of the lifter gallery and is screwed into a tapped hole via a 90 degree adaptor. A simple box baffle was bolted in place on the inside.
I had a stock steel timing pointer which i had hoped to chrome but it was too bent and twisted so took measurements from it and machined one from a big hunk and my mate engraved the degree marks on it for me.
The pulleys on a Cadillac are cast steel and incredibly heavy so before chroming I got them on the lathe and put them on a diet.
The water pump pulley weighed in at 2.25 lbs and after machining it was down to 1.5 lbs, a lot better.
Unfortunately the chromer thought it mounnted the other way around so didn't polish the bolt face so a stainless finisher was made up to cover it.
Here its mounted on the old dummy pump as my new aluminium pump isn't here yet.
Somebody asked how the fan gaurd was held in place so here you can see the small tabs that are accesse through the gaurd holes.
The mounting plate that bolts to the block was also put on a diet as i wasn't happy with the shape, better now.
The generator body was cleaned completely back to bare metal and received 2 coats of epoxy primer and 3 coats of 2k hi build, this was then flatted off and the base coat applied followed by the flake coats and finally 6 coats of clear applied in 2 sessions of 3 coats, I've left it in gun finish as its super smooth.
Lechlar primers & Max Meyer lacquers were used.
The squre headed special bolts that hold the magnets in place had been installed by a gorilla in the past and were pretty burred up so a couple of polished stainless buttons were made up and epoxy glued in place to tidy them up.
Happy new year
brightspark
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real nice but get them letters ground of the stainless bolts and polish them up 
langy
langys rodshop
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Thanks, the bolts get replaced with polished ARP stainless 12 points.
real nice but get them letters ground of the stainless bolts and polish them up
langy
langys rodshop
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Sorted a pesky little problem today, I had some core plugs chromed but when fitting them kept chipping the chrome so i decided to paint them when i did the block, looked ok but still not completely happy with them so today was spent spinnng up some top hat shaped covers for them from a bit of stainless bar on the lathe.
Gave them a quick polish up and glued them in place with some epoxy glue, I'm happy now.
Tricky to photograph though.
Gave them a quick polish up and glued them in place with some epoxy glue, I'm happy now.
Tricky to photograph though.
langy
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Thanks, the covers are only glued to the core plug so it will still work as normal although highly unlikely this car will see any ice.
BeeJay99
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always thught the core plugs were to plug the holes left by the cores when the block was cast.......
One winter when I was a lad I discovered that there was a tube of ice sticking out the side of my Austin A40s (the old bulbous one not the Farina) block. The core plug was frozen on the end of the ice so whatever the intention it probably saved me from having a cracked block at that time.
langy
langys rodshop
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always thught the core plugs were to plug the holes left by the cores when the block was cast.......
They do double duty but i've seen them ping out and still crack due to the water laying in the recess below the core plugs so you can't rely on them Mike.
