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DennisCA
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I decided to also remove the backing plates as I wanted to have a look at them and they were not in as good a shape as I had hoped. Scraping is mostly worn away and the one on the operators side has galling damage. And so does the mating surface on the saddle. Now I can see grinding these should be doable, there is a machine shop nearby which might have this ability, not sure. And scraping them for oil pockets I can perhaps do myself after some training.
But what of the saddle, there is sadly quite a lot of galling there on the edge on the operator side, the whole saddle is large and cumbersome. How would this be refurbished normally? Maybe I don't need to do that at once, if I get the high spots down since I don't think the area is exposed to anything. But this was another victim of grease here.
Unfortunately I was not able to take photos of this just now, tomorrow I should be able to show some pictures.
But what of the saddle, there is sadly quite a lot of galling there on the edge on the operator side, the whole saddle is large and cumbersome. How would this be refurbished normally? Maybe I don't need to do that at once, if I get the high spots down since I don't think the area is exposed to anything. But this was another victim of grease here.
Unfortunately I was not able to take photos of this just now, tomorrow I should be able to show some pictures.
DennisCA
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Based on what I've read on practical machinist, it depends on if the damage is in an exposed area so dirt can get in or not, and how much (or if) it has affected the overall geometry (and overall wear has probably had some effect), but even Richard King has said gouges and such can be left in these cases, at least until I can afford to repair it...
I understand it eventually will need doing. Milling/grinding the saddle is simply too massive and expensive a job at this juncture. I could get the backing plates ground perhaps, they are so small and should be a quick job. But I have to work inside my limitations.
In 2019 I intend to get serious on scraping as well, planning to buy a 400x640mm granite surface plate when money allows.
I understand it eventually will need doing. Milling/grinding the saddle is simply too massive and expensive a job at this juncture. I could get the backing plates ground perhaps, they are so small and should be a quick job. But I have to work inside my limitations.
In 2019 I intend to get serious on scraping as well, planning to buy a 400x640mm granite surface plate when money allows.
DennisCA
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Here are the pictures.
And on the saddle (this edge, the rest is worn but no damage).
I don't think you can get a grinder in there but I am no expert, milling it and applying turcite perhaps. Then scraping it parallel to the other bearing surface that's on the other side.
Now that I think about it, this area is actually exposed, though from underneath in a sort of protected position. I hope I can fill it with epoxy as a stop gap solution until I can afford to have it fixed professionally. Or just leave it. I have used a burr file to remove any high spots, so it's mainly a question of preventing further ingress of dirt until I can afford to fix it.
The backing plates I can probably afford, can't see that being a huge job. Paid a local machinist shop 70€ for a them making me a new shaft once for a bandsaw years ago, this looks like a smaller /faster job. I think.
And on the saddle (this edge, the rest is worn but no damage).
I don't think you can get a grinder in there but I am no expert, milling it and applying turcite perhaps. Then scraping it parallel to the other bearing surface that's on the other side.
Now that I think about it, this area is actually exposed, though from underneath in a sort of protected position. I hope I can fill it with epoxy as a stop gap solution until I can afford to have it fixed professionally. Or just leave it. I have used a burr file to remove any high spots, so it's mainly a question of preventing further ingress of dirt until I can afford to fix it.
The backing plates I can probably afford, can't see that being a huge job. Paid a local machinist shop 70€ for a them making me a new shaft once for a bandsaw years ago, this looks like a smaller /faster job. I think.
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Carl Wilson
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Great work Dennis. Could you please post some more photos of the crane modifications? This is of great interest to me as I will have to do something similar to get my Harrison Mill off the pallet.
Your crane mod idea is superb and will be a great help to me.
Your crane mod idea is superb and will be a great help to me.
DennisCA
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Thanks, I posted a few more pictures about that in this thread:
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/stuff-you-have-made-today.67127/page-234#post-1271766
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/stuff-you-have-made-today.67127/page-234#post-1271766
DennisCA
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Started cleaning the vertical table, better get it done before I do anything else... The "bits and pieces" are there to trip the power feed so it stops at the end of travel.
Not sure what this part in the middle does.
Got rid of the most and worst grease and dirt. Cillit Bang and 0000 steel wool (not on any sliding surfaces, only wiped those with shop towels) are very effective, more so than kerosense for this work. Also replaced the wooden boards the table rested on with some metal, incase it absorbs water and causes rust.
I looked at the scale for the table and see it goes to 50cm or 500mm, so I take it this machine is one of those early FP2s with 500m X-travel instead of the usual 400mm. I never actually checked with it assembled, it wasn't possible after all.
Not sure what this part in the middle does.
Got rid of the most and worst grease and dirt. Cillit Bang and 0000 steel wool (not on any sliding surfaces, only wiped those with shop towels) are very effective, more so than kerosense for this work. Also replaced the wooden boards the table rested on with some metal, incase it absorbs water and causes rust.
I looked at the scale for the table and see it goes to 50cm or 500mm, so I take it this machine is one of those early FP2s with 500m X-travel instead of the usual 400mm. I never actually checked with it assembled, it wasn't possible after all.
Carl Wilson
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Really enjoying watching this restoration.
DennisCA
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Another step forward:
I had to wait for the weather to get warmer so my shop could get warmer and I also raised the thermostat and waited several days so all the machines would also get up to the ambient temp, because the epoxy wants 16C to be able to cure. I also have a space heater blowing on it for the first couple of hours.
I had to deepen the gouge for the epoxy to be able to attach properly, I cut slits at the edges of the damage to try and create a dovetail that would lock in the epoxy. But a true dovetail was not possible (not possible to angle the dremel properly in the small confined space), I still think I got that effect though. I masked the area and the masking tape made it slightly proud so the burr file can work on it better. However in teh end the tools I ended up using (burr file hardly cut at all) was a scraper.
I had to wait for the weather to get warmer so my shop could get warmer and I also raised the thermostat and waited several days so all the machines would also get up to the ambient temp, because the epoxy wants 16C to be able to cure. I also have a space heater blowing on it for the first couple of hours.
I had to deepen the gouge for the epoxy to be able to attach properly, I cut slits at the edges of the damage to try and create a dovetail that would lock in the epoxy. But a true dovetail was not possible (not possible to angle the dremel properly in the small confined space), I still think I got that effect though. I masked the area and the masking tape made it slightly proud so the burr file can work on it better. However in teh end the tools I ended up using (burr file hardly cut at all) was a scraper.
Carl Wilson
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Impressive work.
DennisCA
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I decided to take another look at the DRO and think I discovered the reason for it not working properly.
I am not an electronics person but to me those look like three different full bridge rectifiers, two of them have broken diodes, one rectifier seems to have all diodes completely fried. And there is another component with some red on it that is fried as well. I will need to take it apart and identify the components and get replacements.
I am not an electronics person but to me those look like three different full bridge rectifiers, two of them have broken diodes, one rectifier seems to have all diodes completely fried. And there is another component with some red on it that is fried as well. I will need to take it apart and identify the components and get replacements.
Carl Wilson
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The bit with the red on it is a capacitor. Have you got a circuit diagram?
DennisCA
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Well I've been doing more disassembly of the machine now, got the sliding head lifted off so I can then lift up the saddle and remove it. Decided to remove the horizontal spindle and clean the.
Dirty but no damage I can see, even after clean up.
I took apart the horizontal spindle and I found this:
That was less than ideal. I suppose it could be repaired, brazing or something, but something tells me this might be a non-critical and won't affect function except at the extreme end of travel. And high heat application on this part is not something I want either. I wonder what caused that to happen though, and when.
Dirty but no damage I can see, even after clean up.
I took apart the horizontal spindle and I found this:
That was less than ideal. I suppose it could be repaired, brazing or something, but something tells me this might be a non-critical and won't affect function except at the extreme end of travel. And high heat application on this part is not something I want either. I wonder what caused that to happen though, and when.
Carl Wilson
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It's hard to imagine what could have caused that damage.
DennisCA
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Test lifting the saddle. I didn't remove it though, I felt need to redo the strapping to hold it more securely and shorten the sling a little so I can get the crane down further and thus the saddle up higher.
And no place to put it down... And then there are the maneuvering issues in the small space...
Really to get on with this I need to build new support legs for the change. Half the length and low profile, with plain wheels at the front like a pallet truck has.
And no place to put it down... And then there are the maneuvering issues in the small space...
Really to get on with this I need to build new support legs for the change. Half the length and low profile, with plain wheels at the front like a pallet truck has.
DennisCA
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Sicne I am stuck with the saddle for now I decided to look at the tapered gib and finally repair it.
I removed the damaged portion with the bandsaw, left some material that I then carefully removed on the belt sander (most useful tool I ever made).
Then screw layout and also figuring out what type of screw to use, I settled on two M4x0.7mm screws, it's what I had taps for.
This junky old drill press is good to have when I lack a mill.
What's left is to cut out a piece of metal plate and shape it to fit. I have some annealed carbon steel, I think I will use it and then harden and temper it, perhaps it's overkill though. But I don't see it hurting any.
I removed the damaged portion with the bandsaw, left some material that I then carefully removed on the belt sander (most useful tool I ever made).
Then screw layout and also figuring out what type of screw to use, I settled on two M4x0.7mm screws, it's what I had taps for.
This junky old drill press is good to have when I lack a mill.
What's left is to cut out a piece of metal plate and shape it to fit. I have some annealed carbon steel, I think I will use it and then harden and temper it, perhaps it's overkill though. But I don't see it hurting any.
