Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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I dont know if this site does that. Problem is if you move, all the links die. Completely destroys an excellent thread
- Thread starter DennisCA
- Start date
I dont know if this site does that. Problem is if you move, all the links die. Completely destroys an excellent thread
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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Fair play! Just found this thread. Love machine rebuilds. Very nice work.
DennisCA
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Today I removed the operator side cover.The cover had to come off so I could remove the old wire and install a new switch in the factory location.
The cast iron cover was not as heavy as I feared, I had been expecting something a lot heavier but this weas quite easy to handle.
Also note the absymal color matching. I don't understand... The color match in the store was very close with the original paint, I had that part with me for matching, I even thought before it looked a lot closer when freshly painted. It's like it got darker as it cured, or maybe just my imagination.... I wonder what happened.... did I not mix the paint well enough maybe before I mixed up the latest batch.
The cast iron cover was not as heavy as I feared, I had been expecting something a lot heavier but this weas quite easy to handle.
Also note the absymal color matching. I don't understand... The color match in the store was very close with the original paint, I had that part with me for matching, I even thought before it looked a lot closer when freshly painted. It's like it got darker as it cured, or maybe just my imagination.... I wonder what happened.... did I not mix the paint well enough maybe before I mixed up the latest batch.
DennisCA
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I got around to do the actual painting today, I thought it turned out okay. As soon as I sat down with the photos I saw a spot I missed on the door at the prep stage... And I thought the saddle might have gotten a bit "textured" compared to the other parts, think the compressor was loosing pressure, it doesn't work quite correctly so I gotta turn it on and off manually.
The color match when the paint is fresh is nearly perfect IMO. Let's see what happens when it cures...
Like I said, I think the saddle finish got a bit... I think the word is orange peel?
The color match when the paint is fresh is nearly perfect IMO. Let's see what happens when it cures...
Like I said, I think the saddle finish got a bit... I think the word is orange peel?
DennisCA
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I've been waiting for the paint to harden before I started touching it too much.
Doing some prep work while I am waiting, hammerite silver had to do, couldn't find the right light green that was there from before:
Putting in the new wiring:
Finally put the panel back in place:
And reassembly of the saddle has begun with the shift lever
Doing some prep work while I am waiting, hammerite silver had to do, couldn't find the right light green that was there from before:
Putting in the new wiring:
Finally put the panel back in place:
And reassembly of the saddle has begun with the shift lever
DennisCA
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Reinstalled new sight glasses, the one on the saddle needed an air hole drilled according to what I had read.
New glass for the gear box as well.
All the hand wheels are almost done now.
And here's the X-axis limit switch mechanism reinstalled in the saddle. Also the X-axis clutch mechanism is installed, one can see the bronze sleeve on the right.
I drained the gearbox of oil last night, the deckel manual says to change yearly and flush out with "petroleum" or flushing oil. I don't know what they mean by petroleum, my first instinct was gasoline. But perhaps kerosene or mineral spirits would work as well. My plan at least is to flush with either of those and then fill up again with an intermediate oil like a single weight no-detergent mineral oil for vintage motors. Then drain that an fill up with the real gear box oil. My reasoning is that a small amount of that oil will do no harm. And the real gear oil is too expensive to waste as a flushing medium.
New glass for the gear box as well.
All the hand wheels are almost done now.
And here's the X-axis limit switch mechanism reinstalled in the saddle. Also the X-axis clutch mechanism is installed, one can see the bronze sleeve on the right.
I drained the gearbox of oil last night, the deckel manual says to change yearly and flush out with "petroleum" or flushing oil. I don't know what they mean by petroleum, my first instinct was gasoline. But perhaps kerosene or mineral spirits would work as well. My plan at least is to flush with either of those and then fill up again with an intermediate oil like a single weight no-detergent mineral oil for vintage motors. Then drain that an fill up with the real gear box oil. My reasoning is that a small amount of that oil will do no harm. And the real gear oil is too expensive to waste as a flushing medium.
Gasoline to you sir.
DennisCA
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I asked a german and he said that was most likely in reference to kerosene. I've also been told not to do that by another, instead fill with the real oil, run the machine until the gear box feels warm and drain at once. Then fill a new batch of oil and it should be good for years in a hobby shop.
DennisCA
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I bought a 20 liter keg of Tellus S2 V 68 oil last night, it's a hydraulic oil with anti wear properties. Which is from what I've researched just the ticket for the deckel gear box. I think I will also use it in my lathes gear box. I don't know when that has ever been changed as it requires disassembly.
DennisCA
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I hooked up the machine today and started it. There is a sound that to me sounds like motor bearings in need of replacement, it went away with time but I think I need to remove the motor and at least grease the bearings, or replace them (that's familiar territory at least). Also the feeds don't seem to work. I engaged the headstock feed but it barely moves. Only if I use the rapid feed lever does it move.
I can also stop the currently exposed front bevel gears just by putting my finger on them. I think this means the shear pin broke, which I assume happened when the table galled in place and got sold.
Also when I release the rapid feed lever the gears don't quite mesh up properly so there is a clunking noise for a second or so, is that normal? Doesn't seem it ought to be but maybe it's related to the above issue.
And looking in the headstock oil reservoir there is just a lot of black sludge, I wonder if they tried putting grease in there too...
DennisCA
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No amount of slide hammering worked. So drilling it out was the only option. I've obviously gotten better at drilling things out. Got the pin drilled out without marring up the original hole. Though I must have made some kind of burr because the drive now works and doesn't rotate freely. I think the moment it faces some serious force under use that will let go.
What remained of the shear pin before it was punched out
With that I was able to calibrate the speeds of the feed selector and that side is now complete except for the switches. One thing I am still wondering about is that there is still some "gear crunch" when letting go of the rapid feed lever, if I let it go sometimes the regular feed disengages. Normal behaviour? I decided to make a video of this.
I've been looking at FP2 demo videos on youtube to see the rapid lever demonstrated but I can't hear or see similar behavior there.
What remained of the shear pin before it was punched out
With that I was able to calibrate the speeds of the feed selector and that side is now complete except for the switches. One thing I am still wondering about is that there is still some "gear crunch" when letting go of the rapid feed lever, if I let it go sometimes the regular feed disengages. Normal behaviour? I decided to make a video of this.
I've been looking at FP2 demo videos on youtube to see the rapid lever demonstrated but I can't hear or see similar behavior there.
DennisCA
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After some testing I think I might have to use the lever in a particular way. The rapid feed lever works so that for most of the travel of the lever nothing happens, only at the extreme end does the rapid feed engage. If you let go too quickly like I did in the video then there is some gear meshing noise, doesn't feel right that it should do that. But if you return the lever partially and pause so the rapid can disengage, then it seems to work fine to let the lever return the rest of the way.
I also decided to clean up the electrical box, I just put it away when I got the machine and it was as dirty as the rest of the machine was when it arrived. Just caked in black crud... The people who owned this machine were real pigs. Got the worst of it gone, I see they fitted an additional breaker with a key lock (I have the key). That's actually a nice feature once the grime was removed. The cables are chewed up pretty well though, wires showing through in multiple spots, definitely think they need to be replaced.
I also decided to clean up the electrical box, I just put it away when I got the machine and it was as dirty as the rest of the machine was when it arrived. Just caked in black crud... The people who owned this machine were real pigs. Got the worst of it gone, I see they fitted an additional breaker with a key lock (I have the key). That's actually a nice feature once the grime was removed. The cables are chewed up pretty well though, wires showing through in multiple spots, definitely think they need to be replaced.
DennisCA
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Moving on to installing the switches:
I used the old aluminum plate that was there from before, rough cut it on the bandsaw and then shaped the rest on the belt sander. The screws are a bit ratty, I'll fix them up too later. The nuts are supposed to be on the other side, but I like them as a decorative feature on that side, and they don't fit behind either. Looking for a suitable 12V power source right now, to see if I can test the LED wiring before continuing.
I used the old aluminum plate that was there from before, rough cut it on the bandsaw and then shaped the rest on the belt sander. The screws are a bit ratty, I'll fix them up too later. The nuts are supposed to be on the other side, but I like them as a decorative feature on that side, and they don't fit behind either. Looking for a suitable 12V power source right now, to see if I can test the LED wiring before continuing.
DennisCA
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Ah I feel I reached a milestone today with the reassembly of the Z-axis saddle. I've left out some of the procedure such as the reassembly and checking the oil drop rates and so on.
Unfortunately when lifting it up from the table it was resting on the piece of rubber I had under slipped away and it ground of a piece of paint on the saddle
I hope I can get it patched later, extremely annoying to have to happen to a new paint job.
I moved the saddle up and down and when it got near the bottom I tightened the bolts on the Z-axis, this to help align the nut to the lead screw.
Unfortunately when lifting it up from the table it was resting on the piece of rubber I had under slipped away and it ground of a piece of paint on the saddle
I hope I can get it patched later, extremely annoying to have to happen to a new paint job.I moved the saddle up and down and when it got near the bottom I tightened the bolts on the Z-axis, this to help align the nut to the lead screw.
DennisCA
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Started preparing the vertical table for reassembly. I also quickly painted the pan with a brush.
Even with the crane a support is needed to get the table on.
Remember to reinstall the cam stop that acts against the tapered gib before sliding it on all the way.
Reinstalled the operator side cover:
At this point I decided to go inside and look over the disassembly procedure to see which parts need to go in first, so I don't end up having to disassemble everything again.
Even with the crane a support is needed to get the table on.
Remember to reinstall the cam stop that acts against the tapered gib before sliding it on all the way.
Reinstalled the operator side cover:
At this point I decided to go inside and look over the disassembly procedure to see which parts need to go in first, so I don't end up having to disassemble everything again.
DennisCA
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Having issues with getting one of the X-axis gibs in, fiddly setup, there's a piece that is acted on by a cam, it needs to be retained by friction so it doesn't drop down before one can insert the lower gib, but it doesn't, just falls down.... I think I need to insert some grease there to make it so it doesn't fall down on it's own.
Anyway it was frustrating so I moved onto the long reach vertical head:
Anyway it was frustrating so I moved onto the long reach vertical head:
DennisCA
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The gib turned into more of a job than I thought.
I thought it was bent, but in reality it was mushroomed in the front, I didn't see it at first, I had only removed the most obvious burrs from the front and thought it was gfine, butr on close inspection the huge forces involved in getting the gib loose must have caused the front end to expand. So I've been removing material and checking against a flat reference surface until it was gone, or mostly gone anyway.
I used the front face of the Z-axis box ways as a reference surface, blued it up (not photographed) with Stuart's micrometer blue and a brayer. First time ever using layout fluid, I thought the Stuarts stuff was nice. Didn't get smurf hands either.
I used a DTI to test the deflection of the gib when I pushed it against the way. In the photo I also tested cosine error, put a .15mm feeler gauge in there and the indicator reads it as .22mm instead due to the angle it's held at. This means any readings I have are magnified, which can be a good thing too.
I thought it was bent, but in reality it was mushroomed in the front, I didn't see it at first, I had only removed the most obvious burrs from the front and thought it was gfine, butr on close inspection the huge forces involved in getting the gib loose must have caused the front end to expand. So I've been removing material and checking against a flat reference surface until it was gone, or mostly gone anyway.
I used the front face of the Z-axis box ways as a reference surface, blued it up (not photographed) with Stuart's micrometer blue and a brayer. First time ever using layout fluid, I thought the Stuarts stuff was nice. Didn't get smurf hands either.
I used a DTI to test the deflection of the gib when I pushed it against the way. In the photo I also tested cosine error, put a .15mm feeler gauge in there and the indicator reads it as .22mm instead due to the angle it's held at. This means any readings I have are magnified, which can be a good thing too.
