You need to specifically tell them if you want to sign for something as damaged, they can flag it on the system before you scrawl (although some are reluctant)
DHL = Drop it, Hide it, Loose it.DHL are experts in damaging goods in all possible, and impossible, ways and still deliver with a smile.
If not damaged they'll loose parts of shipment and then blame sender.
I don't pay.
oh...
I'm registered as a student - maybe free for education.
Wow....amazing description of your work.I've signed up as a student for 3 years FOC and have started taking YouTube lessons by Ross Whorter ( ?) " Learn fusion 360 or die trying".
Up date … I got the kit original Prusa i3 3D printer from Prusa in Prague …. badly damaged by DHL , sent it back & got the latest replacement kit back manufactured & parts tested on 28 Nov 2018 .
It's now fully built & tested but gave me terrible test prints that looked much like the frames of a well filleted fish .
I quickly sussed that reason the log cabin it's in is way too cold . The print fan is blowing far too cold air on the print , so the extrusion sets before it fuses with steel print bed or the next layer. Resulting in the cooling filament dragging the print off the base despite me cleaning the plate with isoprop alcohol before printing as the bed is barely at the temperature needed .. Popped a + - 0.3 % oC digital thermometer in the office for a temperature reading . Got 12 oC which is far too cold for a fused melt as the best ambient working temp is 20 to 28 oC temp. I know I can adjust the bed temp but would rather get the ideal print conditions right first .
So rather than heat the whole office room ( 4 x 4 mtr ) I decided to construct a ply box with Perspex door arrangement. I spent £ 30 on a 18 mm white birch ply sheet , cut to size to perfection by the guy in B&Q ( ouch ? ) That may seem expensive but it's exactly cut to size so no real grumbles . The Perspex was £42 defo an " Ouch ) as I need two off 2x 3 foot sheets to make two well fitting doors .
On constructing the the enclosure the sides and the back are the same sizes 600 x 700 , then there are four 600 x600 squares that fit inside the three sides one for the top of the enclosure and three glued and screwed to form the base … realised many folk have problems stressing the printer frame enough to put it out of alignment even with the slightest of movements if it sits on a slippery bench top . All fixing screws were pre planned pre drilled and counter sunk . All faces lightly sanded , de dusted & were PVA glued . It's rock solid now the PVA glue has cured . To ensure the top does not drop inside the box if the ply delaminates I've added a 19 x 25 support strip either side glued & screwed on the underside as a shelf support .
As a final touch I slid a slightly smaller ( B&Q sale item " .. ( anti-slip Formica on both sides & edges ) shelf ( £5 ) inside the enclosure and after setting it equally spaced from the internal edges screwed it to the base in a " Psalter" type pattern , putting in a pre drilled & pre cut counter sunk screw in every 100 mm on all lines. The floor is now nearly 80 mm thick so there is little chance of the printer being put out of alignment by a accident nudge . Best of all I cannot slip a 1.5 thou feeler blade under my straight edge at any of the 16 or so test points I tried so I guess the slab is reasonably flat & not liable to alter.
At present the door is a single 600 x 615 x 4 mm thick clear Perspex sheet pushed up against the opening . Hope to print my own parametric 4 inch leaf butt hinges to put it on as two 300 mm wide doors that can be folded back along the outer side walls when needed .
In side the cabinet ( it's a cabinet now not just an enclosure ) I've put a bulb holder carrying a 7 watt compact florescent bulb to use as a 7 watt heater as well as an internal light . Have to wait till tomorrow to see how well it's warmed things up, if it's a go'er I will be adding a three position switched plug extension lead to the inside and bring the cable out through the sidewall , as well as cutting a hole for a computer fan extraction point in readiness for plumbing the fan in and taking the exhaust outside the office , ready for when I want to print some of the more pungent plastics .
Meanwhile tomorrow it's going to be back to learning the fusion 360 as I'm on lesson 6 out of 13 .
As above, the nozzle is too far from the bed, the first layer should all merge into one, also if you are using a heated bed then there will not really be any temperature problems as the bed will keep the first few layers warm. You can turn the fan off for the first few layers in the slicer if you are unsure.
The paper test is a good start but you need to repeat it on all the corners a few times and then check a few spots around the middle of the bed to make sure, but this only gets you part of the way, hopefully you have something stuck to the bed but you need to adjust it as the first layer is printing (you can set it do do a few single layer squares as a test) you then tweak as the printer is running, too close and you will see the colour of the filament fade away as the layer becomes too thin (you can also get skipping of the extruder feed) too far away and the lines will not merge into a single mass.