slim_boy_fat
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PhillipM
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And then there's foundry work: 3d print the pattern, cast it in aluminium
The same works if you have a lot of repetitive plastic parts too after you realise how slow the printer is
3D printers aren't slow. Why do people think stacking up layers as thick as a piece of paper would be quick? It'll be quicker than you whittling one.The same works if you have a lot of repetitive plastic parts too after you realise how slow the printer is
But yeah, 10 hours is a long time to watch paint dry
Hood
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Just go the whole hog and get a metal sintering laser machine, they are advancing quite a bit with them, downside is you will need to be quite richAnd then there's foundry work: 3d print the pattern, cast it in aluminium
Ah well that depends on how many units and economies of scale or lack there of
slim_boy_fat
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J1nx
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The prices on these printers seems to have really fallen and it looks like there is a lot of online support.
I might order one, at these prices it’s very tempting. I see they also do a A6 version, is it better to go with that? I found this article which suggests so but would rather get a couple of opinions.
It is currently £30 more on GB.
https://pevly.com/anet-a8-vs-a6/
I might order one, at these prices it’s very tempting. I see they also do a A6 version, is it better to go with that? I found this article which suggests so but would rather get a couple of opinions.
It is currently £30 more on GB.
https://pevly.com/anet-a8-vs-a6/
. )Dutch Welder
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I've got the A6,and had the A8.
Out of the box it is a bit better, so If you want a machine that works pretty well from the start get the A6, If you want to tinker with the machine and print upgraded parts (which stiffen the frame etcetera) get the A8.
But a fully upgraded A8 will be dearer then a slightly upgraded A6, which works just as good.
Only thing I did on the A6 are some bed levelling knobs (mine is the older version, without auto bed levelling) a Y belt tensioner, and an uprated fibre belt for both the X and Y axis,a s the stock belt is just rubber it stretches and gives quality issues. I also printed some clamps so I could mount the printer to a piece of 18mm fibre board, and with some cabinet roller guides I can now slide the printer out of it's cabinet, remove the fibre board and printer and work on it.
It also gives much extra stability.
Out of the box it is a bit better, so If you want a machine that works pretty well from the start get the A6, If you want to tinker with the machine and print upgraded parts (which stiffen the frame etcetera) get the A8.
But a fully upgraded A8 will be dearer then a slightly upgraded A6, which works just as good.
Only thing I did on the A6 are some bed levelling knobs (mine is the older version, without auto bed levelling) a Y belt tensioner, and an uprated fibre belt for both the X and Y axis,a s the stock belt is just rubber it stretches and gives quality issues. I also printed some clamps so I could mount the printer to a piece of 18mm fibre board, and with some cabinet roller guides I can now slide the printer out of it's cabinet, remove the fibre board and printer and work on it.
It also gives much extra stability.
Thats a good try but its not actually on topic..lol
Size limitations………….
Workaround...…….
EDIT: 3 Hours 11 with no holes in handle. Which is funny because usually they save time but I guess seeing as the handle is at 45 degrees and so it would do a straight run end to end of the handle I guess when printed on an angle it slows it down.
Workaround...…….
EDIT: 3 Hours 11 with no holes in handle. Which is funny because usually they save time but I guess seeing as the handle is at 45 degrees and so it would do a straight run end to end of the handle I guess when printed on an angle it slows it down.
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Of course this alters how the hatching infill crosses and merges into the circle from handle.it could be weaker.
What was your print time on that job in the end?
This is the red heat bed power terminal. I sliced this off the rest off the block and fixed it by replacing the terminal and sweating and filling the new terminal joint with solder. Then the large black terminal, heat bed earth went the same so has received the same treatment. The middle temp sensing terminals are still on the standard connections.
