Whats a kerfmaker?
- Thread starter ukracer
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It will be transfer tape. It adheres to the vinyl and lifts it off but when placed on a surface and then lifted of leaves the vinyl in place.
See above...
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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It's an adjustable stop block type thing for cutting accurate grooves on a table saw, without a dado blade.
Wendelspanswick
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I've had good success with PETG filament, it's my go to filament at the moment for strength and durability.
I used it to print out some angled spacers for the guttering on my barn, 32 of them, and they have been out in the elements for nearly a year with no visible signs of degradation.
I used it to print out some angled spacers for the guttering on my barn, 32 of them, and they have been out in the elements for nearly a year with no visible signs of degradation.
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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Yes
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1345031
If you decide to make one, consider changing the bolt sizes to M5.
M4 hex head screws/bolts are a pita to get hold of, locally - I had a choice of a 10 mile round trip or the bay.
My local ironmongers (geo Spence) don't stock them, not does Screwfix or Toolstation, or been n queued.
M
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for the ABS posts earlier...
I've only ever printed in ABS
I used to have a couple of bits of cardboard box around the printer to stop draughts, which helped a lot, used it like that for years
more recently I made a better enclosure because I've got a load of things to print and they're pretty big/bulky
enclosure is just one of those £5 idea tables on top of the printer with 2mm perspex sies, not properly sealed at all... air temp inside is about 30'C when printing... I normally warm the bed up early to warm the enclosure up a bit
with no brim etc.. I get a little bit of lifting and a bit of splitting... the bits I'm printing are going to be bolted to a wall so they'll be fine like that once fitted
they're pretty big/bulky bits, only getting 5 out of a 1kg reel of ABS
I thought about a better enclosure... was thinking a (broken) fridge with a glass door would be perfect!... but I'd have to move the controller outside of the fridge and I'm not sure how well the stepper motors would fair at higher temps?
I've only ever printed in ABS
I used to have a couple of bits of cardboard box around the printer to stop draughts, which helped a lot, used it like that for years
more recently I made a better enclosure because I've got a load of things to print and they're pretty big/bulky
enclosure is just one of those £5 idea tables on top of the printer with 2mm perspex sies, not properly sealed at all... air temp inside is about 30'C when printing... I normally warm the bed up early to warm the enclosure up a bit
with no brim etc.. I get a little bit of lifting and a bit of splitting... the bits I'm printing are going to be bolted to a wall so they'll be fine like that once fitted
they're pretty big/bulky bits, only getting 5 out of a 1kg reel of ABS
I thought about a better enclosure... was thinking a (broken) fridge with a glass door would be perfect!... but I'd have to move the controller outside of the fridge and I'm not sure how well the stepper motors would fair at higher temps?
just print the bolts
Scooe creep there - this cheap printer is getting expensive
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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drill stop for 8mm "joint genie" dowel jig.To replace the (quite frankly, rubbish) included depth stop.
Things I learnt today:
STL files are unitless.
I default to inches in fusion.
Cura uses mm as default.
So models have to be scaled up by 2540%
thinfourth
pleb
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You can change the standard units in fusion 360
ALSO
If you are in mm in fusion and you put in a dimension and write " 2.0 inches " it will convert it into mm
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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Yes.
But if the default units in fusion are inches, then it outputs an STL file using inches as the base unit - but STL does not record what units are used.
Cura interprets the inch measurements as mm, so all models are 10/254 the correct size.
thinfourth
pleb
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Where are folk buying these printers from?
As i fancy one but i have heard that some of the really cheap deals are actually a cheap knockoff
As i fancy one but i have heard that some of the really cheap deals are actually a cheap knockoff
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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I
I'm not an expert, but the "Anet a8" and others for around £100-150 are clones of the "prusa i3" which is an "open source" community design.
At that sort of price, they are all a project - not a ready-to-use machine.
Basically, you get hardware and electronics.
You build it like a Meccano kit into a "just works" state, then print extra parts to make it more accurate, more stable, faster printing, easier to use.
By the time it's in that state, you have learnt the vagaries of your particular machine and customised it to your own preferences and are intimately familiar with it.
Or.
You pay £500+ for a "usable from the box" and don't have the "tinkering" - for better, or worse.
I got mine off farcebutt on a local selling group.
I'm not an expert, but the "Anet a8" and others for around £100-150 are clones of the "prusa i3" which is an "open source" community design.
At that sort of price, they are all a project - not a ready-to-use machine.
Basically, you get hardware and electronics.
You build it like a Meccano kit into a "just works" state, then print extra parts to make it more accurate, more stable, faster printing, easier to use.
By the time it's in that state, you have learnt the vagaries of your particular machine and customised it to your own preferences and are intimately familiar with it.
Or.
You pay £500+ for a "usable from the box" and don't have the "tinkering" - for better, or worse.
You don't have to tinker though
They do work
I drew and printed new micro switch mounts for mine
A filament button, T pieces and cooling duct off thingiverse
Filament guides I printed to suit myself, it's not exactly modded
Input a few links earlier one of which the guy talks about the first 7 popular mods making beggar all difference to his benchy
Then he changes firmware
They do work
I drew and printed new micro switch mounts for mine
A filament button, T pieces and cooling duct off thingiverse
Filament guides I printed to suit myself, it's not exactly modded
Input a few links earlier one of which the guy talks about the first 7 popular mods making beggar all difference to his benchy
Then he changes firmware
I got a bit sick of my old printer and bought this one a while back
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Duty-fre...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
(could have probably found a better price, but greentech are a decent seller (at the cheap end) and the ebay account is uk based with postage from the uk)
for prusa i3 copy printers the important bits are...
rigidity, a nice rigid frame gives better print quality, because the frame shakes less (as print hear moves back and forth) and lets you print faster (faster you go the more it shakes)
and then the lead screws for the Z axis (the screws either side which move the print head up and down) - most are threaded bar, some are more fancy, some are less fancy - look at the nut thingies (forgot the name for these) that this goes into... some are nuts glewd into plastic, some are better brass parts
other than that most i3 copies are pretty much the same, same controllers, same stepper motors etc.
the one I linked above is pretty good, it's much better than my first printer I bought (when 3d printing was new)
I've only had it a few weeks but I've already put 3+ rolls of ABS through it
I bought a duetwifi control board for it - a fancy controller to replace the stock one, has wifi, few extra options etc.. - but that's mostly because I'm a bit of a geek, used the old type controller with the original printer for years with no problems
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Duty-fre...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
(could have probably found a better price, but greentech are a decent seller (at the cheap end) and the ebay account is uk based with postage from the uk)
for prusa i3 copy printers the important bits are...
rigidity, a nice rigid frame gives better print quality, because the frame shakes less (as print hear moves back and forth) and lets you print faster (faster you go the more it shakes)
and then the lead screws for the Z axis (the screws either side which move the print head up and down) - most are threaded bar, some are more fancy, some are less fancy - look at the nut thingies (forgot the name for these) that this goes into... some are nuts glewd into plastic, some are better brass parts
other than that most i3 copies are pretty much the same, same controllers, same stepper motors etc.
the one I linked above is pretty good, it's much better than my first printer I bought (when 3d printing was new)
I've only had it a few weeks but I've already put 3+ rolls of ABS through it
I bought a duetwifi control board for it - a fancy controller to replace the stock one, has wifi, few extra options etc.. - but that's mostly because I'm a bit of a geek, used the old type controller with the original printer for years with no problems
Normsthename
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Don’t to forget to 3D print the most useful thing that you can...... a £1 plastic coin for shopping trollies 
I went to the Royal Mint website and they have all the dimensions for the new £1 coin.
I printed a couple out and carry them around in my wallet.
Amazing how many times I get to the supermarket and I don’t have a coin for the trolley.
Andy
I went to the Royal Mint website and they have all the dimensions for the new £1 coin.
I printed a couple out and carry them around in my wallet.
Amazing how many times I get to the supermarket and I don’t have a coin for the trolley.
Andy
