Anet A8 3D Printer.

[bigegg]

SO in the end Cura didn't "guess" that bad?

No.

 

[mrsbruce]

Thats a good try but its not actually on topic..lol

But there was a 3D printer in there somewhere. Just not the ‘right’ 3D printer.

 

[ukracer]

But there was a 3D printer in there somewhere. Just not the ‘right’ 3D printer.

Lol actually it was a laser engraver.

 

[mrsbruce]

Lol actually it was a laser engraver.

I printed the upgrades on my 3D printer.

 

[bigegg]

Ok so spin up Cura again if that is what you are using
0.2 layer will give you 4 hours
0.3 layer maybe 2.4 hours

Obviously courser finish

10% fill would be tolerable

Have a look at shell or wall thickness
I have seen a 0.8 or 1.2 take upto a third longer than a 1.0mm shell / wall thickness on hollow items

One thing I've noticed, using a 1mm using a 0.8mm shell, and 10% infill results in a VERY weak print - like a pink wafer biscuit.
1mm 20% is a LOT stronger.

I think for the tool holders, I'll be using maybe 2mm / 40%

 

[Wendelspanswick]

One thing I've noticed, using a 1mm using a 0.8mm shell, and 10% infill results in a VERY weak print - like a pink wafer biscuit.
1mm 20% is a LOT stronger.

I think for the tool holders, I'll be using maybe 2mm / 40%

Do you know about using multiples of the nozzle width for shell thickness?
So if you have a 0.4mm nozzle your better having a 1.2mm wall thickness rather than 1mm.

 

[130]

One thing I've noticed, using a 1mm using a 0.8mm shell, and 10% infill results in a VERY weak print - like a pink wafer biscuit.
1mm 20% is a LOT stronger.

I think for the tool holders, I'll be using maybe 2mm / 40%

You need a thicker top layer
I use a 1mm shell for the sides as both 0.8 and 1.2 usually take way longer, never a 0.8 as time usually goes up so never tried that. My bottom / top is 1.2. Whether it is weak or not depends on what the shape is and how big it is. But yep, the trick is to tailor to your needs which is one of the great flexibility things. That nibbler holder is 10% 1mm and is holding up fine. The intention was to print solid but if the prototype works no need for another

 

[130]

Do you know about using multiples of the nozzle width for shell thickness?
So if you have a 0.4mm nozzle your better having a 1.2mm wall thickness rather than 1mm.

And then you could also get into considering dimensions of your object to layer heights, for example with a 0.3 layer you might print something 30mm thick accurately but not something that was 31mm as you could only have 30.9 or 31.2 - unless the gcode generation figures it out

 

[bigegg]

Do you know about using multiples of the nozzle width for shell thickness?
So if you have a 0.4mm nozzle your better having a 1.2mm wall thickness rather than 1mm.

Yes.
Im working on the guess I have a 0.4mm nozzle - hence 2mm wall

 

[PhillipM]

Providing your extrusion width is set at 0.4mm, yes. A lot of slicers will print slightly larger than the nozzle size to generate a bit of pressure for more consistancy and better bonding. I'll generally make my models 0.5mm multiples for example because I print at 0.5mm with 0.4mm nozzles, 1mm with 0.8mm nozzles, and 1.5mm with 1.2mm nozzles.

 

[bigegg]

piece of 38mm worktop aquired from ikeas scrap pallet, and tie-downs being printed...
I *was* going to use a piece of 30mm marble hearth, but I've had another idea for that...

 

[bigegg]

Kerfmaker printed out:

List price is around $73, so I reckon the Anet has paid for itself, already.

 

[130]

View attachment 144889

What's the white stuff on your heat bed?

 

[130]

Some of this is probably outdated...………….

I really wouldn't bother with soldering all heat bed terminals and cable chain as adds weight.
I would probably (will probably if I het to it) solder the ring terminals to the wires and heat shrink. Not a fan of cheap terminals crimped.

The popular improvements...……….NOTE how many popular ones appear to make little difference but he does like upgraded firmware

 

[130]

Also this makes a lot more sense than the other frame strengthener methods
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2045010

 

[bigegg]

What's the white stuff on your heat bed?

4" wide masking tape of some type.
Came with the machine - seller was a vinyl sign maker, and it's something he used for that.

I could find out - I have a piece of glass on order, so wasn't overly bothered about it, tbh.

 

[bigegg]

Any recommendations as to suppliers of PLA?

Also: what needs to be done to print ABS?

Enclosure enough? Or insulated heatbed?

 

[130]

If the masking tape on your heat bed looks almost like ripply parcel tape then it may be factory original. Once you destroy that stuff and then use normal tape it's like the world has ended and takes a while to get everything back to "normal" the adhesion it gives for small parts is awesome.

A mate is printing ABS with his in his airing cupboard as the enclosed space to keep it hot. He's got MOSFETs, Bowden and E3d lite, borosilicate glass with blue frog tape on and suffered real adhesion problems. You will read about meths. I didn't have any joy with meths but did with roughening the masking with a nail board for tiny stuff.. I believe he was using meths with ABS in (slurry I think) I've not tried printingABS or buildtak sheets...…..

I would probably have taken the electronics off to move the board and transformer outside an enclose instead of cooking them too

I've only used PLA so far. Mate used to swear by rigid ink, then that £9.99 off ebay was almost undetectable differences I bought 5 rolls of same stuff off amazon initially so not had to buy more yet.


Also look at the articles on baking PLA

 

[PhillipM]

Depends what you're printing with ABS, but I've had no issues with Rigid's ASA (similar to ABS but UV tolerant) even when I didn't have it enclosed, I just printed it hot with the heatbed turned up, printed a full kilo, no issues.

If it's tall objects with small bases it might be more of an issue

 

[bigegg]

The masking tape is definitely NOT factory original.
Seller applied it from a big roll whilst I was there.