Annoying Compressor fault....?

[roofman]

Dont tell me its an intregral pump/motor type

 

[james butler]

Yes if non return leaks it will go into delivery pipe but then straight out of the unloader valve

to test the theory could noods let the compressor run up to pressure untill it shuts off then undo the delivery pip at the pump/ unloader valve end and see if it leaks air?
then you would know if 1 the valve is knackered and 2 if the unloader valve isnt releasing all the pressure it should do?

 

[the snooper]

to test the theory could noods let the compressor run up to pressure untill it shuts off then undo the delivery pip at the pump/ unloader valve end and see if it leaks air?
then you would know if 1 the valve is knackered and 2 if the unloader valve isnt releasing all the pressure it should do?

If it hisses when it cuts out its working, the switch physically keeps the valve open when in the off position

 

[rtbcomp]

TBH you're all barking up the wrong tree. Not starting when cold is a common problem with the cheaper compressors and it works OK when it's warmed up, so it's working OK.

Put up with it until the weather gets warmer and if it still gives problems start digging a little deeper.

 

[daleyd]

TBH you're all barking up the wrong tree. Not starting when cold is a common problem with the cheaper compressors and it works OK when it's warmed up, so it's working OK.

Put up with it until the weather gets warmer and if it still gives problems start digging a little deeper.

I'm not sure, the description below sounds more like its trying to start against pressure. If it was purely down to the cold I'd expect it not to start even if the tank was drained. (It could of course be a combination of the 2...)

I've found the only way I can overcome it is to initially drain the water from the tank and get the pressure low, then she starts up fine and will cut out when it reaches pressure

 

[rtbcomp]

^^ Read post 12.

It's OK in summer because the oil gives less resistance

 

[the snooper]

TBH you're all barking up the wrong tree. Not starting when cold is a common problem with the cheaper compressors and it works OK when it's warmed up, so it's working OK.

Put up with it until the weather gets warmer and if it still gives problems start digging a little deeper.

I said more or less same thing in post 17

 

[the snooper]

I'm not sure, the description below sounds more like its trying to start against pressure. If it was purely down to the cold I'd expect it not to start even if the tank was drained. (It could of course be a combination of the 2...)

The thick oil slows down the pump then it all of a sudden comes up against pressure in the delivery pipe which causes it to slower further, the motor tries to draw more amps to get going and pop goes the fuse

 

[daleyd]

^^ Read post 12.

It's OK in summer because the oil gives less resistance

Yeah, reading it again it makes sense now! (Though I did say above it's possibly a combination of temp and pressure)

Quite surprising it's blowing fuses as its only a 2hp motor though, must be under some strain on start up!

 

[brightspark]

Yeah, reading it again it makes sense now! (Though I did say above it's possibly a combination of temp and pressure)

Quite surprising it's blowing fuses as its only a 2hp motor though, must be under some strain on start up!

starting amps on the motor will be about 50 for a couple of seconds

 

[daleyd]

starting amps on the motor will be about 50 for a couple of seconds

Yeah I'd have just thought a 2 Hp would have a bit in reserve compared to a 3hp (I don't have any probs with my 3 hp in cold) but if it's a poor design then that would explain it.

 

[rtbcomp]

My Clarke SE16C150 starts everytime no matter how much air is in the tank or what the ambient temperature is. I was going to buy the 50 Litre version, but bought the SIP instead. Wish I'd paid the extra £100 for the Clarke.

 

[eil]

I take it that you are switching it on and off at the pressure switch and not at the plug /socket on the wall.

 

[Noods]

Wow some wizard like theories on here.. Thank you all of you..
I did originally have it plugged into an extension lead, the fuse then blew in that too.. So I rewired the power source today to its own socket.. I also pulled the wire ringle on the vale next to the regulator, that did seem a bit stuck! But eventually it released air.. Got the comp running ok and it cut in and out as it should without further issue.. So fingers crossed...

 

[Noods]

I take it that you are switching it on and off at the pressure switch and not at the plug /socket on the wall.

Oh yes....

 

[Mee]

It's OK in summer because the oil gives less resistance

Nothing really to do with the oil, this is mainly an insignificant factor in most cases.

Problems are the design of the systems, particularly with the cheaper direct drive units as they are marginal at best; the real issue is air density, air is more dense in winter or when it is cold and the denser the air the more power it needs to compress it to a specific volume and pressure. In summer or when warm its density is reduced and normal service is resumed.

 

[Noods]

I agree and disagree.. With regards to oil if you imagine stiring a mug of milk and the same volume of syrup , it quickly provides a Visual comparison to the thick oil issue.. With regards to water in the air, compare a bucket of air to the same volume in water.. Water is air after oxgen but with Hydrogen added... Combustion engines use cooler air more efficiently with fuel droplets clinging on to the cool air.. The difference between a dry summers day compared to current days with the air loaded with water droplets.. Compressor wise that's why it only starts without blowing fuses when I drain the tank of air and water, way less resistance.. You can after all compress air quite easily but compressing a liquid is way more difficult to do.. So when that electric motor try's to turn over up against that resistance in winter it's no real surprise it struggles somewhat ...

 

[rtbcomp]

Nothing really to do with the oil, this is mainly an insignificant factor in most cases.

Problems are the design of the systems, particularly with the cheaper direct drive units as they are marginal at best; the real issue is air density, air is more dense in winter or when it is cold and the denser the air the more power it needs to compress it to a specific volume and pressure. In summer or when warm its density is reduced and normal service is resumed.

I made the point about bad design in post #12.

Some members have alleviated this problem by changing to a thinner oil or warming the pump before switching it on. Warming the pump warms the oil, not the incoming air.

 

[rtbcomp]

I agree and disagree.. With regards to oil if you imagine stiring a mug of milk and the same volume of syrup , it quickly provides a Visual comparison to the thick oil issue.. With regards to water in the air, compare a bucket of air to the same volume in water.. Water is air after oxgen but with Hydrogen added... Combustion engines use cooler air more efficiently with fuel droplets clinging on to the cool air.. The difference between a dry summers day compared to current days with the air loaded with water droplets.. Compressor wise that's why it only starts without blowing fuses when I drain the tank of air and water, way less resistance.. You can after all compress air quite easily but compressing a liquid is way more difficult to do.. So when that electric motor try's to turn over up against that resistance in winter it's no real surprise it struggles somewhat ...

Engines work better in cold weather because the air is denser, therefore more mass per volume. Chemically reactions (such as combustion) rely on the mass of the reagents, so if you get more mass of oxygen into the reaction you get more energy out.

The air on a cold winter's day is drier than on a humid summer's day. You may get more power out of an engine by adding atomised water droplets, but this is due to the water creating steam and increasing the pressure in the cylinder. There have been several bolt-on goodies designed to introduce water droplets into engines, but their efficacy is debatable - after all, if they were that good they'd be fitted as standard.

 

[Noods]

Engines work better in cold weather because the air is denser, therefore more mass per volume. Chemically reactions (such as combustion) rely on the mass of the reagents, so if you get more mass of oxygen into the reaction you get more energy out.

The air on a cold winter's day is drier than on a humid summer's day. You may get more power out of an engine by adding atomised water droplets, but this is due to the water creating steam and increasing the pressure in the cylinder. There have been several bolt-on goodies designed to introduce water droplets into engines, but their efficacy is debatable - after all, if they were that good they'd be fitted as standard.

Engines work better in cold weather because the air is denser, therefore more mass per volume. Chemically reactions (such as combustion) rely on the mass of the reagents, so if you get more mass of oxygen into the reaction you get more energy out.

The air on a cold winter's day is drier than on a humid summer's day. You may get more power out of an engine by adding atomised water droplets, but this is due to the water creating steam and increasing the pressure in the cylinder. There have been several bolt-on goodies designed to introduce water droplets into engines, but their efficacy is debatable - after all, if they were that good they'd be fitted as standard.

Sorry, with respect, but some of this is absolute crap!