C
Chris Stevens
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Why not get a Tig Finger and use it to prop with?
- Thread starter K18 NOB
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Richard.
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Thanks Paul.Undeleted for you
Brad93
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Heat wise, its a vast improvement there is no more grey, dullness which is basically oxidation of the component metals in the stainless (316 for example chromium, molybdenum, nickel). This is to do with your heat input as well as gas coverage.
Otherwise you just need to improve your steadiness by the looks of things and then the consistency will follow on from that.
Aesthetic of the deposited weld bead is down to the welder really, as long as there is sufficient penetration, weld reinforcement and no defects it is a good weld.
Otherwise you just need to improve your steadiness by the looks of things and then the consistency will follow on from that.
Aesthetic of the deposited weld bead is down to the welder really, as long as there is sufficient penetration, weld reinforcement and no defects it is a good weld.
K18 NOB
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Its on my ever expanding list of things I need to get! Sadly the list is growing quicker than my wealth
K18 NOB
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Cheers Richard/brad
Aesthetics is naturally something I strive for but the importance lies in getting the weld right first for me, I'd rather have something strong that looks a little messy than something beautiful which will fall apart in seconds. Continuing to work on it though and I'm now consistently turning it the same quality of weld which is good to know. Was just a case of trying to master the power curve of my pedal as @HughF mentioned during my ally practice. I'm getting there with it slowly though.
Running out of random pieces of stainless now though
Aesthetics is naturally something I strive for but the importance lies in getting the weld right first for me, I'd rather have something strong that looks a little messy than something beautiful which will fall apart in seconds. Continuing to work on it though and I'm now consistently turning it the same quality of weld which is good to know. Was just a case of trying to master the power curve of my pedal as @HughF mentioned during my ally practice. I'm getting there with it slowly though.
Running out of random pieces of stainless now though
Richard.
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That's a stunner.
K18 NOB
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Cheers,
Scared the life out of myself when I struck the arc up and heard the Ac.....not heard that for a while
I set the welder up a while back and let the mrs have a go, she had never welded before in her life but after a few attempts managed to run a decent 3" bead on ally! Either my tuition was amazing or she is a natural!
Think I remember hearing somewhere that women are generally quite good at TIG? Or more so than men?
Richard.
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Mr akrapovic believes that's true too. Iirc there was a time when all aka systems were welded by women. Not sure if that is still the case.Cheers,
Scared the life out of myself when I struck the arc up and heard the Ac.....not heard that for a while
I set the welder up a while back and let the mrs have a go, she had never welded before in her life but after a few attempts managed to run a decent 3" bead on ally! Either my tuition was amazing or she is a natural!
Think I remember hearing somewhere that women are generally quite good at TIG? Or more so than men?
K18 NOB
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Think it's something to do with the fine delicate nature of it....us blokes tend to prefer big hammers
Richard.
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Don't mess about with those. Get that bloody cooler finished then run a 20.
K18 NOB
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Sadly that's on the back burner at the moment. Big change of circumstances coming up and my car is taking priority at the moment as it needs to be done before I move. The damn thing keeps fighting me every step of the way though.
Paul.
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Why do you feel the need to weave, all you need to do is lay straight beads (stringers) and with one filler rod, , the tig tutorial shows how to do it, all that weaving about will just slow you down and increase the heat input into the material.
Richard.
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I've never used 2 filler rods in my life. That's actually not strictly true. I have twisted 2 together to make a thicker one when I've been caught stuck. Sounds to me like your trying to make life more difficult to create an inferior result.
I personally can't think of a case scenario when a weaved Alu joint would be useful. I know about the whole cup walking thing and I'm aware of the desired trend when starting out to create big wide shiny uniformed weld but it's all nonsense. It's a "show" weld and in the real world where we aim to stick things together there is very little use for it especially in Alu. Stainless steel is the usual suspect for these weavy type things and to do it like they do it goes against everything positive about welding.
The welding current is set very low, the gas is literally flooding through a drain pipe size cup and the travel rate is as you can imagine with wide weaves sloooooooooooow.
Results. Lack of pen, lack of fusion, high heat input, low toughness, low tensile, and a colourful run that's likely to rust.
I personally can't think of a case scenario when a weaved Alu joint would be useful. I know about the whole cup walking thing and I'm aware of the desired trend when starting out to create big wide shiny uniformed weld but it's all nonsense. It's a "show" weld and in the real world where we aim to stick things together there is very little use for it especially in Alu. Stainless steel is the usual suspect for these weavy type things and to do it like they do it goes against everything positive about welding.
The welding current is set very low, the gas is literally flooding through a drain pipe size cup and the travel rate is as you can imagine with wide weaves sloooooooooooow.
Results. Lack of pen, lack of fusion, high heat input, low toughness, low tensile, and a colourful run that's likely to rust.
K18 NOB
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I'm a few days into my ASME IX 6G pipe course, already I've learned so much and its been worth its weight in gold.
Started on pipe yesterday and found it a little more challenging than I thought but it went well enough. This morning I've gone onto 2G which has thrown me a little but it's coming along. Anyway....here's some from yesterday.....
Started with the pipe a touch too close together which was a pain but it's all learning
Started on pipe yesterday and found it a little more challenging than I thought but it went well enough. This morning I've gone onto 2G which has thrown me a little but it's coming along. Anyway....here's some from yesterday.....
Started with the pipe a touch too close together which was a pain but it's all learning
Richard.
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Although ive never done that particular code ive done plenty of 6g butt joints
Set your root gap at 3mm so that when it closes up a 2.4 filler will still fit through the gap.
Life is much easier filling from the inside from 6 o'clock to 3/9 o'clock then from the outside from 3/9 o'clock to 12 o'clock.
Your root looked good From the face side but your filling passes look too prominent and your cap is far too exsessive.
1.5-2mm cap hieght with smoothly blended toes, no undercut is what you should be looking at maximum cap height.
Set your root gap at 3mm so that when it closes up a 2.4 filler will still fit through the gap.
Life is much easier filling from the inside from 6 o'clock to 3/9 o'clock then from the outside from 3/9 o'clock to 12 o'clock.
Your root looked good From the face side but your filling passes look too prominent and your cap is far too exsessive.
1.5-2mm cap hieght with smoothly blended toes, no undercut is what you should be looking at maximum cap height.
