Wow! Been away a few days & so many replies! Please don't fall out on my account! Will respond with pics this week. I do feel I should do the right thing as I've had it so long but I've really mostly just been storing it as my mate had no space - I had just offered to return it to him recently since he built himself a shed. It's mostly stood idle as it's so tricky to use & I've had a brilliant local engineer do clever stuff for me. He's now retired & moved away so I'm back to my own skills... & unexpectedly have first dibs on the Atlas. I do have some use for it & would use it more if it was less worn (i.e. I'm prepared to spend a bit of time & money on it up to a point... just not sure at present how feasible renovation is & I have several other time consuming projects) I'll try the chuck removal page on Practical Machinist" forum. If I can't remove it it does lower it's value to me & probably others.
welcome back flowboy as been mentioned before lay out all the tools for it and take the pics, tools and extras to a lathe means someone can get started straight away once installed and learn the machine old machines everyone must learn there faults even with myfords and other laths out there
with the lathe try to get good photos and also of the bed even beds that have slight rust can be brought back up with some elbow grease
everyone has there quibles over what is a good machine and what is not
I've got an atlas myself, but I only paid 50 quid for it (in bits). It's on its way to becoming a cnc lathe, but for the time being it's manual only, however I think it's a lovely little bit of kit.
Obviously it's not the most rigid lathe ever, but it will chomp metal at a decent rate IMO. It's a hobby lathe, after all. The atlas is far superior to e.g. the Myford ML4 I had before.
I don't think anyone can tell you (I.e the original poster) what to do, but I think the Atlas can be a decent lathe if it's not totally shot to pieces. However, if it's a dog, it's probably easy to sink a lot of money into and still not end up with a decent lathe at the end of it. If you need a lathe, and it's there already, at least it saves transporting a lathe, because they can be a bit unwieldy.
Is that last picture taken from above or the side?
If it's from above then there's adjustment screws on the base of the tail stock (front and back of lathe).
There's also a reasonably accurate gauge at the back of the tail stock (between the base and the actual tail stock bit) with a two lines which line up when the tail stock is reasonably on center.
Get a couple of dead centres in the headstock and tailstock tapers and check the alignment with those. As you're checking now, that could be merely the chucks or the centre drills which are off.
Dead centres as suggested above. Bring them together and lightly nip a 6" steel rule between them, roughly the centre of the ruler. Adjust the tailstock offset screws until the ruler is square across the bed. It should also be hanging vertically now. If not you have a problem with wear to either or bothe the bed and the carriage. Do check that the headstock is clamped firmly beforehand.
late lunch... Pic is from side as Gaz1 noted. It's ok from top. I had a fiddle with it a few years back & couldn't get it any better than this. Will try some dead centres (I assumed the centre drills would be good enough - they're not ancient!) I tried putting t s chuck in different positions with same result.
Bed is not bad - some damage by chuck I guess where stuff has let go at speed or been dropped.
back later
Right folks, more pics coming up. I don't care about it's looks - just it's functionality.
I put the one dead centre there is in the tailstock - same problem - tailstock has "dropped" at chuck end. If there was another dead centre I could be more thorough. IIUC there is only across the bed adjustment not up & down?
The cabinet is very solid - 2 man job to move - heavy shaped steel top & welded frame, strong drawers. I hadn't really thought about this seperately from the lathe - I guess it adds value over & above the 10F itself. I am calling it a 10F - there is no manual but a parts list for a 10F with the lathe but don't know if it actually is one or how to i.d. the different models other than via Timken bearing. The bearings seem good - the chuck is pretty solid as for as I can tell (apart from being stuck on!). I also ran the lead screw & it worked ok both ways. As I've said I haven't used this as the wear or set up of the toolpost/cross slide is too unpredictable. The nut is missing off the lead screw change gear - very coarse thread & I've lost my thread gauge...
Obviously I want to make them a fair offer for it all, not pay over the odds when I could get a better lathe for similar money. Must say I haven't seen a ML7 for under £500. Looks like Bloobloo got a "bargain" with 2 Atlas's for £100 but they look like a lot more work than this one!
BTW fortunately you can't see the rest of the mess in the shed...
Previous pics; sure you will recognise all the contents but there seem to be parts of another lathe?
2nd pic, face plates + another tool holder + random spares / odds n sods.
4th pic down - some special tool + tool holder etc
Last pic, various morse taper tools + old type tool post?
Below; state of bed. Hasn't looked this clean for a while!
There's wear there but it doesn't look terrible; impossible to tell without physically being there really. If you run your nail across the ways can you feel ridges or roughness on them? You do have the makings of a vertical slide there.
If the bed has been firmly bolted to a solid top, it may have caused the bed to distort if that top isn't perfectly true. One would hope just unbolting it would help but you may need to coax it back to true.