- Thread starter mylesdw
- Start date
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
They're NP fittings so I bought a set of cheapo NPT taps on fleabay
They do exactly what I wanted, cleaning threads, and cost $33 for three sizes delivered. Can't be bad.
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
With a handful of new parts to fit I reassembled the offside front hub and brakes.
New wheel cylinder in place; the original was scored and leaking. One piston was seized and you could see that only one brake shoe was contacting the drum. There is plenty of wear left on the linings so I simply gave them a clean up with a wire brush.
The adjuster mechanisms go through the back plate and are held in place with a double coil washer (I think it's a Thackray washer), a dished washer and a circlip. It sits in a recess in the back plate and I could not get it anywhere near on
I made a special tool on the lathe that would compress the spring and washer while I fed the circlip in from the side
This worked well enough.
Here are the completed brakes and hub
New wheel cylinder in place; the original was scored and leaking. One piston was seized and you could see that only one brake shoe was contacting the drum. There is plenty of wear left on the linings so I simply gave them a clean up with a wire brush.
The adjuster mechanisms go through the back plate and are held in place with a double coil washer (I think it's a Thackray washer), a dished washer and a circlip. It sits in a recess in the back plate and I could not get it anywhere near on
I made a special tool on the lathe that would compress the spring and washer while I fed the circlip in from the side
This worked well enough.
Here are the completed brakes and hub
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,176
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I haven't visited the thread for a while it's looking good .
You don't need to paint the leaf springs , a good wire brushing and rubbing he leaves with plenty of grease , is how we treated them in the Army
Is thee any /much play in the spring hanger bracket bushings .. now is the time to sort it out if there is as you have plenty of space to work . slip a pry bar between the pinned bush & the yoke then wiggle it up & down to check them .
That power assisted steering bar .. I also suspect it is an addition / bodge .
How is the end play in the steering box & play on the cross shaft ?
Don't forget to file the leading edges of the brake linings to stop them from grabbing when the brake is applied . It's also a good idea to cover the linings with some wide protective tape till your ready to pop the drums on so that the stay clean /grease free.
Reassembling the split wheel rims. The keeper ring can fly off and cut a man in half so make sure that you have them well seated on the grooves and ALWAYS INFLATE THE REASSEMBLED WHEEL WITH IT IN A SAFETY CAGE OR WITH THE RING FACING INWARDS TO A WALL .
Never do it with the ring facing you with out that protection.
I had a butterfly's in the bum moment back in 1973 , got called to go over the vehicle sheds where every one was sat behind a tracked vehicle .
On asking what the prob was I was told to look at the truck tyre laid on its back just inside the shed . The keeper ring was only held in by about 1 & 1/2 inches the rest was angled up towards the roof & the retainer lip ring was also part way out .
As there was no electricity in the sheds I got hold of a 5/16 Stanley hand drill and a 1/4 " drill bit and crawled towards the highest raised point of the ring then slowly and with difficulty drilled a hole in the tyre tread so it deflated . I felt really quite jelly legged after that little escapade , got a crate of Amstel for doing it from the lads in the MT section and saying nowt ..
You don't need to paint the leaf springs , a good wire brushing and rubbing he leaves with plenty of grease , is how we treated them in the Army
Is thee any /much play in the spring hanger bracket bushings .. now is the time to sort it out if there is as you have plenty of space to work . slip a pry bar between the pinned bush & the yoke then wiggle it up & down to check them .
That power assisted steering bar .. I also suspect it is an addition / bodge .
How is the end play in the steering box & play on the cross shaft ?
Don't forget to file the leading edges of the brake linings to stop them from grabbing when the brake is applied . It's also a good idea to cover the linings with some wide protective tape till your ready to pop the drums on so that the stay clean /grease free.
Reassembling the split wheel rims. The keeper ring can fly off and cut a man in half so make sure that you have them well seated on the grooves and ALWAYS INFLATE THE REASSEMBLED WHEEL WITH IT IN A SAFETY CAGE OR WITH THE RING FACING INWARDS TO A WALL .
Never do it with the ring facing you with out that protection.
I had a butterfly's in the bum moment back in 1973 , got called to go over the vehicle sheds where every one was sat behind a tracked vehicle .
On asking what the prob was I was told to look at the truck tyre laid on its back just inside the shed . The keeper ring was only held in by about 1 & 1/2 inches the rest was angled up towards the roof & the retainer lip ring was also part way out .
As there was no electricity in the sheds I got hold of a 5/16 Stanley hand drill and a 1/4 " drill bit and crawled towards the highest raised point of the ring then slowly and with difficulty drilled a hole in the tyre tread so it deflated . I felt really quite jelly legged after that little escapade , got a crate of Amstel for doing it from the lads in the MT section and saying nowt ..
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
Thanks for your reply Dapph; it's much appreciated and I enjoy your tales of aulde.
The power steering ram, I've seen a couple on eBay, the last was labelled TK/MJ part but I don't think it is TK. Maybe a Bedford coach. It works fine anyway. A few years ago it failed and the effect was that the truck wanted to turn hard left all the time. It took all my strength to drive it in a straight line! I have seen TKs with power steering (the big ones with the 500 engine) and they have the power steering all built into a bigger steering box, not a separate ram at all.
I have a neat trick for refitting those tyres and split rims that just needs a trailer and some beer. I put the wheels in the trailer and take them to my tyre man. Then I say something like "can you refit these tyres please". Later, I come back and the tyres are fitted and the beer has gone! Magic!
I could not detect any end play in the steering pinion (I was glad about that because I don't have the special tool for the slotted end) but the cross shaft had plenty. It was very easy to adjust out with the screw and the lock nut.
I didn't file the leading edges of the brake linings because I was simply re-using the part worn set. Should I have done that?
The power steering ram, I've seen a couple on eBay, the last was labelled TK/MJ part but I don't think it is TK. Maybe a Bedford coach. It works fine anyway. A few years ago it failed and the effect was that the truck wanted to turn hard left all the time. It took all my strength to drive it in a straight line! I have seen TKs with power steering (the big ones with the 500 engine) and they have the power steering all built into a bigger steering box, not a separate ram at all.
I have a neat trick for refitting those tyres and split rims that just needs a trailer and some beer. I put the wheels in the trailer and take them to my tyre man. Then I say something like "can you refit these tyres please". Later, I come back and the tyres are fitted and the beer has gone! Magic!
I could not detect any end play in the steering pinion (I was glad about that because I don't have the special tool for the slotted end) but the cross shaft had plenty. It was very easy to adjust out with the screw and the lock nut.
I didn't file the leading edges of the brake linings because I was simply re-using the part worn set. Should I have done that?
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
Same for the offside front; I left it together in case I needed to look at it (I did!) then same for the rear. I have a collection of stuff ready to go for blasting including the brake backplate, air tanks and some other brackets. I have been working away fitting a clutch slave cylinder for my conversion to air servo clutch and I'll post some pictures when it is more complete. Also have the brake master cylinder back from being re-sleeved and rebuilt.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,176
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
It's not clear if you have only taken down one brake drum assembly at a time & reassembled it exactly as it came off .
So my answer is that for myself I would have put a leading edge on the linings , just to be safe in case you didn't note which set and which drum came off which side & put them back as the already run in sets.
Were the brake drums skimmed by any chance ?
So my answer is that for myself I would have put a leading edge on the linings , just to be safe in case you didn't note which set and which drum came off which side & put them back as the already run in sets.
Were the brake drums skimmed by any chance ?
colnerov
Member
- Messages
- 4,824
- Location
- Nr Gatwick UK
Hi, those power steering rams I think were fitted on TLs they were also fitted on coach chassis,s as well as AEC and Leyland Leopard coach chassis.s. We used to have a 66 plate MK at the airport and that had air assisted steering. When I was on the bus company we would occasionally get rebuilt rams in that did that hard steer to one side.
Colin
Colin
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
The shoes went back on exactly as they came off; I didn't dismantle the whole mechanism that holds the two shoes together. There was no great scoring on the drums so I didn't get them skimmed. As far as I remember the brakes were pretty good, no juddering or pulling.
I will check the spring shackle bush wear as you suggest.
I will check the spring shackle bush wear as you suggest.
Last edited:
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
I did some work on converting the clutch to include an air servo.
The original clutch mechanism was simply a bar joining the pedal to the release lever and was fiendishly heavy: you had to brace yourself against the seatback to move it. I picked up a new air servo on ebay some time ago; I think it's a Man Diesel part
This servo is operated by hydraulics so the pedal needs to activate a master cylinder instead of the old push rod.
I picked up a master cylinder and clevis from these people carbuildersolutions.com
This has (I think) a bore and stroke that will match the servo.
The original clutch pedal needed bending slightly in the vise and thinning down to accept the clevis. I reamed the hole out to 7/16"
and made a brass bushing for the clevis pin
Quite a milestone actually because it is just about the first successful thing I have made on my lathe!
The spring loaded 'captive' pin for the clevis is a really neat idea: much easier than messing about with split pins.
So flushed with success I made a steel pushrod complete with 5/16" UNF thread cut on the lathe (woohoo!)
The whole thing sits on the truck like this, with the master cylinder tucked into the chassis rail.
I'm not sure that I have the pedal stroke correct but it will be good enough to get started. It's difficult to tell without the cab on and the other pedal fitted and so on.
The original clutch mechanism was simply a bar joining the pedal to the release lever and was fiendishly heavy: you had to brace yourself against the seatback to move it. I picked up a new air servo on ebay some time ago; I think it's a Man Diesel part
This servo is operated by hydraulics so the pedal needs to activate a master cylinder instead of the old push rod.
I picked up a master cylinder and clevis from these people carbuildersolutions.com
This has (I think) a bore and stroke that will match the servo.
The original clutch pedal needed bending slightly in the vise and thinning down to accept the clevis. I reamed the hole out to 7/16"
and made a brass bushing for the clevis pin
Quite a milestone actually because it is just about the first successful thing I have made on my lathe!
The spring loaded 'captive' pin for the clevis is a really neat idea: much easier than messing about with split pins.
So flushed with success I made a steel pushrod complete with 5/16" UNF thread cut on the lathe (woohoo!)
The whole thing sits on the truck like this, with the master cylinder tucked into the chassis rail.
I'm not sure that I have the pedal stroke correct but it will be good enough to get started. It's difficult to tell without the cab on and the other pedal fitted and so on.
ms08
Member
- Messages
- 593
- Location
- Kent
I bought mine from ebay - just used it on my 9000 - was around £39 - works well for coils of pipe. I may even sell it now that it has done it's job
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,063
- Location
- Hull UK
looking forward to seeing this finishedI did some work on converting the clutch to include an air servo.
The original clutch mechanism was simply a bar joining the pedal to the release lever and was fiendishly heavy: you had to brace yourself against the seatback to move it. I picked up a new air servo on ebay some time ago; I think it's a Man Diesel part
This servo is operated by hydraulics so the pedal needs to activate a master cylinder instead of the old push rod.
I picked up a master cylinder and clevis from these people carbuildersolutions.com
This has (I think) a bore and stroke that will match the servo.
The original clutch pedal needed bending slightly in the vise and thinning down to accept the clevis. I reamed the hole out to 7/16"
and made a brass bushing for the clevis pin
Quite a milestone actually because it is just about the first successful thing I have made on my lathe!
The spring loaded 'captive' pin for the clevis is a really neat idea: much easier than messing about with split pins.
So flushed with success I made a steel pushrod complete with 5/16" UNF thread cut on the lathe (woohoo!)
The whole thing sits on the truck like this, with the master cylinder tucked into the chassis rail.
I'm not sure that I have the pedal stroke correct but it will be good enough to get started. It's difficult to tell without the cab on and the other pedal fitted and so on.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,176
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Did you manage to borrow an endoscope or some such thing as a tiny web cam with LED lighting and have a look inside the tanks .. it would be a pity if you get it all re built and the air tanks are internally rusted to a dangerous state .
It would be sensible because of the age of things to do that and also to get the tanks pressure tested to about 210 psi . ( fill a tank with water and with it behind a safety wall pump it up to 210 psi ensure it holds the pressure for three min release drain and place some where to warm to evaporate the majority of water left inside then spray in a water displacee cum protector film like WD 40 to get a light oil coating inside .
It would be sensible because of the age of things to do that and also to get the tanks pressure tested to about 210 psi . ( fill a tank with water and with it behind a safety wall pump it up to 210 psi ensure it holds the pressure for three min release drain and place some where to warm to evaporate the majority of water left inside then spray in a water displacee cum protector film like WD 40 to get a light oil coating inside .
- Messages
- 22,459
- Location
- Birmingham
As soon as I saw the pics I thought the same thing
Screwdriver
Member
- Messages
- 10,549
Awesome thread, thanks for all the pics!
