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- Thread starter mylesdw
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mylesdw
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A bit of progress. I'm trying to think of things that are much easier to do while the cab is still off. The TK cab does not tip, it has hinged side flaps instead. Access to the rear and sides of the engine is good but around the front it is not so...
I put the alternator, belts and idler on. The idler bolts also hold the power steering pump to the back of the timing cover.
The pump is gear driven. I had it reconditioned because it was losing fluid. We were putting pints of power steering fluid in but none was leaking out anywhere! It was all making its way through the front seal and into the sump. I had also noticed that the engine used surprisingly little oil...
I put the alternator, belts and idler on. The idler bolts also hold the power steering pump to the back of the timing cover.
The pump is gear driven. I had it reconditioned because it was losing fluid. We were putting pints of power steering fluid in but none was leaking out anywhere! It was all making its way through the front seal and into the sump. I had also noticed that the engine used surprisingly little oil...
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Put new belts on if access to the front is poor?
mylesdw
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That's a good point; I think they are OK but I will take a closer look. Thanks. Funny how I get things stuck in my head that 'definitely need replacing' and other things I don't even think of!
Edit - they're not OK, cracks all over the place so I'll order some more.
Edit - they're not OK, cracks all over the place so I'll order some more.
Last edited:
mylesdw
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When I took the starter off I noticed it was very sloppy on its mountings and looking closer I found that the three mounting holes in the starter were 5/8" but the studs on the block 3/8"
Turns out, they changed the stud size for different engines over the years and mine has the wrong starter. Good news is that it is obviously new or reconditioned so I made some brass bushes from 5/8" bar
Job done
In the end I had to re-drill the bushes slightly oversize because the whole thing fitted too tightly
Turns out, they changed the stud size for different engines over the years and mine has the wrong starter. Good news is that it is obviously new or reconditioned so I made some brass bushes from 5/8" bar
Job done
In the end I had to re-drill the bushes slightly oversize because the whole thing fitted too tightly
mylesdw
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So what do the team think?
I sent the fuel tank for blasting...
The chap warned me that blasting very often causes pinholes where the tank has rusted from the inside and sure enough
This appeared in the tank 'sump' next to the drain. I'm guessing that this is the worst area because water would have settled here.
There is also some pitting on the outside where the retaining straps went
I measure these pits at 0.5mm deep and the steel is 2mm so I'm thinking that these are not much of a problem.
Should I cut out the whole sump area and (assuming the tank looks otherwise OK inside) replace it? The steel is 2mm and I have MIG. Should I look around for another tank? Should I have a go at making a new one?
Thoughts please,
I sent the fuel tank for blasting...
The chap warned me that blasting very often causes pinholes where the tank has rusted from the inside and sure enough
This appeared in the tank 'sump' next to the drain. I'm guessing that this is the worst area because water would have settled here.
There is also some pitting on the outside where the retaining straps went
I measure these pits at 0.5mm deep and the steel is 2mm so I'm thinking that these are not much of a problem.
Should I cut out the whole sump area and (assuming the tank looks otherwise OK inside) replace it? The steel is 2mm and I have MIG. Should I look around for another tank? Should I have a go at making a new one?
Thoughts please,
It doesn't look like too big a job at all to repair the sump. Like you say, cut and replace would seem to be the order of the day. Presumably the tank has been flushed with water already. I know solvents can seep though - at what point is it safe to weld on a tank?
I have a healthy fear of welding on tanks and wheels (would never do it with a tyre on it!).
Would you also be able to go over the areas that the straps corroded? Fill them with lead/solder or even MIG them up? 2mm sounds good like you say so I suppose it isn't necessary.
When is your first test drive?
Keep up the good work!
I have a healthy fear of welding on tanks and wheels (would never do it with a tyre on it!).
Would you also be able to go over the areas that the straps corroded? Fill them with lead/solder or even MIG them up? 2mm sounds good like you say so I suppose it isn't necessary.
When is your first test drive?
Keep up the good work!
jpmillermatic
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here is a link to a general schematic...maybe it will lend some clues...
http://circuitreference.blogspot.com/2013/02/delco-wire-alternator-installation-5000.html
looking good, love the progress.
JP
http://circuitreference.blogspot.com/2013/02/delco-wire-alternator-installation-5000.html
looking good, love the progress.
JP
mylesdw
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The truck has power steering of the type often seen on tractors; it's known as a booster system I believe and uses a hydraulic ram with a fancy valve that can sense which way the steering arm is moving
The original hoses were attached with a few cable ties and had clearly been rubbing on various things so having had new hoses made up by the local hydraulics agent I made a clamp to try and hold it securely and let leave enough slack for the ram to move
Just three stainless steel clamps welded together
This clamps the hoses to the outside of the ram. I had the guy slide some sleeves over the hoses while he was making them
I also picked up one of these brackets for where the hoses pass over the chassis. This is deliberately a loose fit so that they can move
The original hoses were attached with a few cable ties and had clearly been rubbing on various things so having had new hoses made up by the local hydraulics agent I made a clamp to try and hold it securely and let leave enough slack for the ram to move
Just three stainless steel clamps welded together
This clamps the hoses to the outside of the ram. I had the guy slide some sleeves over the hoses while he was making them
I also picked up one of these brackets for where the hoses pass over the chassis. This is deliberately a loose fit so that they can move
mylesdw
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Cruising around doing some reading about mending the diesel tank I came across this well-written guide to welding and other hot work on tanks and drums -
http://www.business.govt.nz/worksaf...k-on-tanks-and-drums/hot-work-tanks-drums.pdf
Thought it was worth sharing with the forum.
http://www.business.govt.nz/worksaf...k-on-tanks-and-drums/hot-work-tanks-drums.pdf
Thought it was worth sharing with the forum.
jpmillermatic
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"The truck has power steering of the type often seen on tractors; it's known as a booster system I believe and uses a hydraulic ram with a fancy valve that can sense which way the steering arm is moving"
My buddy's Ford 1970 something farm tractor has a very similar set up....
nice attention to detail....I almost have forgotten what its going to look like.....have you picked out a color scheme?
JP'
My buddy's Ford 1970 something farm tractor has a very similar set up....
nice attention to detail....I almost have forgotten what its going to look like.....have you picked out a color scheme?
JP'
mylesdw
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Decided to have a go at mending the diesel tank. I rigged up a way of supplying plenty of fresh air intom the tank using the vacuum cleaner. The idea is to dilute any vapour.
Then I cut out the damages area
Which is quite pitted inside
The rest of the inside looks really good though
I would be interested in ideas about how to proceed with the repair, there seem to be various options and there are usually plenty that I have not even thought of. I could form a new section by hammering sheet metal but I'm not sure how you would go about it. I could fold some sections and weld them together to make a new section or I could attempt to repair the existing piece before welding it back in. All ideas would be appreciated...
Then I cut out the damages area
Which is quite pitted inside
The rest of the inside looks really good though
I would be interested in ideas about how to proceed with the repair, there seem to be various options and there are usually plenty that I have not even thought of. I could form a new section by hammering sheet metal but I'm not sure how you would go about it. I could fold some sections and weld them together to make a new section or I could attempt to repair the existing piece before welding it back in. All ideas would be appreciated...
C
Chris Stevens
Guest
Why not make a simple punch and die out of wood, and use it to press your repair part?
