Bedford TK

[mylesdw]

On the passenger side of the engine block, about halfway down, towards the rear the engine size (CID) is cast in quite big numbers - something like 330, 381, 466 or 500. Mine is a 466 and starts very easily, if the batteries can spin it over once it will go.

 

[Alan Gregory]

Thanks for that, but mine has a different engine-

Labels on the manifold read "Power Plus" and "Leyland Diesel".
"1065" is stamped into the block in a similar position to your cast numbers..

 

[Wendelspanswick]

Thanks for that, but mine has a different engine-
View attachment 82108
Labels on the manifold read "Power Plus" and "Leyland Diesel".
"1065" is stamped into the block in a similar position to your cast numbers..

Similar engine to that fitted to the Nuffield 1060 tractor but with 2 extra cylinders I think.

 

[octo0072000]

Similar engine to that fitted to the Nuffield 1060 tractor but with 2 extra cylinders I think.

you mean nuffield had 4 cylinders i presume

 

[taxi ray]

I think the engine is a Leyland 400. There was not many TKs with it fitted, but there is a few articles on the web.

 

[mylesdw]

Any one know the right way to tighten one of these. It's the prop centre flange after I replaced the centre bush. It tightens exactly between two slots and if you back it off to get the pin in it seems rather loose; not much more than finger tight.

 

[octo0072000]

tighten up to the next slot do not back off

 

[awemawson]

If too much torque to get to next slot, you may need a shim washer to get to the previous one. Thickness of shim easily calculated if you know the TPI of the thread

 

[mylesdw]

Thanks guys, I'll go find a big spanner and give it a whirl, I wasn't sure if it was like a wheel bearing but I suspected not.

 

[Alan Gregory]

From memory, I think there is a much finer thread on wheel bearings, giving a finer adjustment.

 

[mylesdw]

For completeness, the answer is (so advice above is spot-on and finger tight a really bad idea!)

¾” dia nut – 170 lb ft

1” & 1 ¾” dia nut – 240 lb ft

( Supplied by the ever-helpful Rob at http://www.bedfordtruckparts.co.uk/ )

 

[mylesdw]

Got on with a few odds and sods.

Ran a 7-core trailer cable front to back down the inside of the chassis rail for the rear lights.



Re-used these neat little chassis clips.

I thought it would be a good idea to change the thermostat while it is easy to get at. I took the neck off and found this


so that would rather explain it running a bit cool!

I did some trial fitting of the new radiator hoses, some lined up fine



and others did not



I can probably just extend that lower radiator pipe.

There's some more interesting stuff in the pipeline but I have been waiting until I can post a set of pictures in order rather than jumping about between lobs which is what happens in real life.

 

[mylesdw]

The exhaust exited the silencer at a funny angle



so I cut it off short and welded it back on straight



this just leaves a stub under the truck which I can use when I know where the tailpipe will go

Then refitted the exhaust with a new copper seal



and a little fabricated bracket that allows the rubber mount to remain in compression and not be torn apart like the original

 

[Sammy]

Great work thanks for all you tips

 

[mylesdw]

You're very welcome and thanks.

Things are going a bit slowly at the moment mainly because I'm off to the UK for a month in May for a family wedding so I've been making preparations for house-sitters and all that. I have a couple of ongoing projects that should get finished after I'm back and then I'll post the pictures all together. I have the air clutch mechanism nearly complete and also the fitting of an electric fan to the original radiator shroud.

I also picked up a 24V aircon compressor on ebay but I'm not sure that there is room to fit it.

 

[Robotstar5]

Things are going a bit slowly at the moment mainly because I'm off to the UK for a month in May for a family wedding so I've been making preparations for house-sitters and all that....

Don't forget the shopping list of parts while you're here

 

[mylesdw]

Ages ago, in in attempt to make the clutch lighter I bought this on eBay



An air clutch servo from a Man diesel.A five quid bargain!

But when I came to try fitting there was a problem

This is the clutch arm looking forward and the space is way too tight for the servo to fit where it needs to go - pushing on the clutch arm. The starter motor is in the way and the spring shackle too close.

Further back on the chassis, near the gearbox there is plenty of room so I made a bell-crank affair so that the new servo could pull on the clutch are rather than push

This bolts into the chassis rail thus

 

[colnerov]

Hi, A word of caution, you're not supposed to drill holes in the flanges of chassis rails. Or did you use existing holes?

Colin

 

[mylesdw]

That I did not know! What is the significance? There were lots of holes there already

 

[mylesdw]

The clutch bell-crank was made by reaming a steel sleeve



to take a standard plain brass bush



and then adding these laser cut pieces before welding it all together