- Thread starter mylesdw
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mylesdw
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If they were normally closed switches (they're not) you could wire them in series so that any one switch opening would cause an alarm. This would also be fail-safe because breaking the wire would also cause an alarm but Bedford just didn't do it that way! You'd need a relay to do this so I guess it was just a cost saving thing.
mylesdw
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Entered a competition to see how many brass fittings could be attached to one valve!!
... seriously. This is an emergency release for the spring brake. I haven't seen one of these on a truck before but the idea is that if you lose air pressure causing the spring brake to come on and you can't move the truck, you can divert air from the aux circuit to the spring brake to get things moving again.
... seriously. This is an emergency release for the spring brake. I haven't seen one of these on a truck before but the idea is that if you lose air pressure causing the spring brake to come on and you can't move the truck, you can divert air from the aux circuit to the spring brake to get things moving again.
mylesdw
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There was a chap from just south of Christchurch kept popping up on my facebook promoting a vapour blasting service: lots of nice before and after pictures of gearboxes, manifolds and the like. So I sent the cab steps down for a blast and they came out beautifully. Here's the before and after
A nice semi-gloss finish. So they needed some grit blasted and painted brackets
and then on the truck
Just waiting for some UNC bolts to mount the steps
A nice semi-gloss finish. So they needed some grit blasted and painted brackets
and then on the truck
Just waiting for some UNC bolts to mount the steps
jpmillermatic
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the great work continues!
that media blasting looks really nicely done!
JP
that media blasting looks really nicely done!
JP
I drove one for a while when i worked on the farm it was 7.5 tonne and i used it to deliver potatoes to Covernt gardens and other places , i loved driving that old thing and in y mid 20s had fun driving it. had to melt the old grease out and regreas the steering often to keep the steering smooth and loading the thing in the right way to give a little lighter steering was a must but it only ever broke down once and that was just a belt that snapped while on the m25 they may be slow but for what they were they were ok.
rtbcomp
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In parallel:
any one switch closes the light comes on,
switch needs to close on fault condition
In series:
any one opens the light goes out,
thus light comes on if all tanks are showing a fault condition
mylesdw
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If you've ever wondered what hens' teeth look like...
... door seals are very hard to come by. I keep an eye on the auction sites all the time so when a pair came up for sale I bought them double quick. The old ones are always in a sorry state.
They glue into the door edge channel with contact adhesive
Then I figured that the safest place for the door was on the cab, so I fitted it (together with some new hinge pins)
... door seals are very hard to come by. I keep an eye on the auction sites all the time so when a pair came up for sale I bought them double quick. The old ones are always in a sorry state.
They glue into the door edge channel with contact adhesive
Then I figured that the safest place for the door was on the cab, so I fitted it (together with some new hinge pins)
mylesdw
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I got on and fitted the passenger door. It's always a good idea to run a tap through old captive nuts
These hold the hinges to the door.
But how do I fix this -
the door is fitting reasonably (I doubt they were ever a great fit!) but the top is way out; the best part of an inch.
There is no way I can adjust this out with the hinges, besides the lower door is fairly flush.
Any ideas?
These hold the hinges to the door.
But how do I fix this -
the door is fitting reasonably (I doubt they were ever a great fit!) but the top is way out; the best part of an inch.
There is no way I can adjust this out with the hinges, besides the lower door is fairly flush.
Any ideas?
slim_boy_fat
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Wouldn't it be the reverse in @mylesdw 's case - his door top needs to go inwards. Piece of wood in the opening by the top hinge and gently 'persuade' the top of the door?
colnerov
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Hi, That's why I said 'door open' meaning to then stand in the open doorway and pull the top of the door 'in'. It was poor phrasing and still not sure I've done it better.
Your method will achieve the same effect.Colin
slim_boy_fat
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Hi, That's why I said 'door open' meaning to then stand in the open doorway and pull the top of the door 'in'. It was poor phrasing and still not sure I've done it better.
Colin
Two minds with but a single thought
Pigeon_Droppings2
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What you don't want to do is bend it back in the middle of the window frame and make the problem even more difficult to fix. You could clamp a couple of pieces of wood to the frame so that the weakest point is where you want it to bend...just in case after all this hard work.
Then again most of my projects end up being more about woodwork than welding!
Then again most of my projects end up being more about woodwork than welding!
jpmillermatic
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looks like its "out" starting from the body line on the door..should that be where it needs to bend from? Im trying to imagine a table or jig with firm padding...I would imagine that it will take less force than you think to get it to start moving...perhaps you could use a hydraulic jack to help somehow?
JP
JP
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Is the door on the other side straight...I would be tempted to take a card template if you can of a straight door and then use that as a guide (possibly make a wooden template out of some thick wood). You should then be able to just use some soft faced clamps to pull the door back into line.
Personally I'd prefer to do it in a controlled way so you have the option of stopping if it goes wrong. Would be a shame to mess the door up for the sake of spending a few hours making a template.
When I did it I found that the steel does spring back so you'd have to adjust the template to allow a little over bending...what I did was first try a template of the exact shape....measure how much under the bend is and then take that much off the template. I did it on my Figaro but I reckon the steel on Jap cars is paper thin....on this bad boy you may need some assistance and JP suggests.
Personally I'd prefer to do it in a controlled way so you have the option of stopping if it goes wrong. Would be a shame to mess the door up for the sake of spending a few hours making a template.
When I did it I found that the steel does spring back so you'd have to adjust the template to allow a little over bending...what I did was first try a template of the exact shape....measure how much under the bend is and then take that much off the template. I did it on my Figaro but I reckon the steel on Jap cars is paper thin....on this bad boy you may need some assistance and JP suggests.
