fixedfixer
Member
- Messages
- 275
- Location
- Scotland
Looking at the photos both doors look out at the tops to me. Is there any adjustment in the top hinge to adjust things before you start bending them or just the left one?
- Thread starter mylesdw
- Start date
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
I am moving on with this project (I promise) but there's really not much to show at the moment: a series of wiring and plumbing jobs that are boring but necessary.
I did try bending the door frames as suggested above and the process is surprisingly easy - sit in the cab, place your knee just near the top hinge and give the top of the door a sharp tug. I haven't finished the job because I really need to have the latches working and I'm waiting for parts to turn up.
I did try bending the door frames as suggested above and the process is surprisingly easy - sit in the cab, place your knee just near the top hinge and give the top of the door a sharp tug. I haven't finished the job because I really need to have the latches working and I'm waiting for parts to turn up.
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
I bought these ages ago on eBay
The original cab had been fitted with these groovy faired-in numbers
I was slightly ripped-off because they were sold as TK lights but in fact they are universal trailer lights made by a Rubberlite. However, they are very similar to originals, in much better condition and won't break if you clout them.
Trouble is, they did not follow the curve/angle of the cab and ended up pointing inward in an odd squinty sort of way.
So I drew some wedge-shaped spacers up on CAD
and then printed them on the 3D printer at work
and they worked well
The original cab had been fitted with these groovy faired-in numbers
I was slightly ripped-off because they were sold as TK lights but in fact they are universal trailer lights made by a Rubberlite. However, they are very similar to originals, in much better condition and won't break if you clout them.
Trouble is, they did not follow the curve/angle of the cab and ended up pointing inward in an odd squinty sort of way.
So I drew some wedge-shaped spacers up on CAD
and then printed them on the 3D printer at work
and they worked well
jpmillermatic
Member
- Messages
- 1,094
that is very very cool. what material did you print the spacers from?
JP
JP
Pigeon_Droppings2
Member
- Messages
- 6,018
- Location
- london
3d printers are amazing...I have a small hobby one and it's still pretty cool.
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
They are printed in PLA which prints easily but is not resilient to water or sunlight. It will be interesting so see how they last. I can easily print another set either in PLA and then paint them or in ABS which is hardier.
At work we print patterns that are sent away and turned into ally castings but that process is still pretty pricey
Pigeon_Droppings2
Member
- Messages
- 6,018
- Location
- london
PLA is the plastics derived from corn or something like that I think....it's deliberately bio degradable but still takes a few years I think.
I was amazed what could be done with even a cheap little machine...I was using PLA as it's easier to work with.
I was amazed what could be done with even a cheap little machine...I was using PLA as it's easier to work with.
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
Not a good photo but here's a 12-port gas manifold, the PLA printed pattern on the left and the aluminium casting on the right. The process is like lost-wax where the pattern is destroyed in the process (you have to print a pattern for every casting)
![IMG_20171003_101428[1].jpg](https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/data/attachments/116/116648-240d800900f47cb73a18272b9ad78f33.jpg "IMG_20171003_101428[1].jpg")
It would be quite a job to machine this from solid.
It would be quite a job to machine this from solid.
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
These are nice pieces of kit. I used one a month or two back rewiring a trailer and again here for the TK rear lights.
Well made waterproof junction box with hinged lid and rows of common terminals so that splicing multiple leads together (marker lights, repeaters, trailer etc.) is a breeze.
It's even labelled
They're on eBay, I think Ifor Williams trailers use them too.
Well made waterproof junction box with hinged lid and rows of common terminals so that splicing multiple leads together (marker lights, repeaters, trailer etc.) is a breeze.
It's even labelled
They're on eBay, I think Ifor Williams trailers use them too.
the original manufacturer is Britax, but there is copies out there now. The Britax version is far superior to the copies and is what ifor Williams use on their trailers along with crappy Britax lights.
jpmillermatic
Member
- Messages
- 1,094
that is pretty sweet!
JP
JP
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
Hard to tell, the seller listed the manufacturer as Ifor Williams and I don't see any problem with quality so it may or may not be a knock-off. Cost about £12.
Pigeon_Droppings2
Member
- Messages
- 6,018
- Location
- london
Love the weather tight box...I use them all the time for the house when putting up exterior lights for example....just didn't know they also made them for automotive use too.
mylesdw
Member
- Messages
- 794
I bought a couple of these combination gauges with warning lights and I've been messing about getting them all working
The gauges came together with temperature senders so I messed about with a bench power supply so see how they worked
With the temperature at ambient (18º), the gauge showed mid-range (80º) with the power supply at 8V. I deduced from this that the gauge needs a regulated 5V supply and confirmed this by setting the supply to 5V and then heating the sensor - it read as expected. I've ordered a suitable regulator, all of 99p on eBay.
The new senders are 750Ω at room temperature and that decrease with increased temperature. I was hoping that the existing sender in the block would be similar but no such luck - it was open circuit (knackered).
The sender is very awkward to get at, behind the exhaust manifold, behind an injector pipe and tight up against the head casting
I did no really want to take the whole manifold off, I was worried about snapping studs to I took an old socket and turned down the outside and shortened it in the lathe
Then just enough space to get it in and get a big bar on it
The new sender is a little smaller so quite easy to fit
The gauges came together with temperature senders so I messed about with a bench power supply so see how they worked
With the temperature at ambient (18º), the gauge showed mid-range (80º) with the power supply at 8V. I deduced from this that the gauge needs a regulated 5V supply and confirmed this by setting the supply to 5V and then heating the sensor - it read as expected. I've ordered a suitable regulator, all of 99p on eBay.
The new senders are 750Ω at room temperature and that decrease with increased temperature. I was hoping that the existing sender in the block would be similar but no such luck - it was open circuit (knackered).
The sender is very awkward to get at, behind the exhaust manifold, behind an injector pipe and tight up against the head casting
I did no really want to take the whole manifold off, I was worried about snapping studs to I took an old socket and turned down the outside and shortened it in the lathe
Then just enough space to get it in and get a big bar on itThe new sender is a little smaller so quite easy to fit
jpmillermatic
Member
- Messages
- 1,094
Im very impressed with your solution to fitting the sender...though it seems to have been "easy" for you to do it.....My luck would have taken me the snapped stud route, Im sure!
JP
JP
Bordfunker
New Member
- Messages
- 22
- Location
- Banbury
That looks lovely!
The lights and badges have restored the Bedford's face.
Karl
The lights and badges have restored the Bedford's face.
Karl
