Pigeon_Droppings2
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Marker lights look great...workshop looks great too 
- Thread starter mylesdw
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mylesdw
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I'd forgotten about Yorkie bars and truckers; the problem will be getting the cab cool enough.
I was using a punch on the roof to drill for the marker lights and it made a funny 'thunk' sort of sound rather than a 'ping', just like when you find a panel with a LOT of filler on it. This puzzled me for a moment because I know there isn't any filler there but then I realised it was the soundproofing stuff on the inside; it makes a huge difference!
I was using a punch on the roof to drill for the marker lights and it made a funny 'thunk' sort of sound rather than a 'ping', just like when you find a panel with a LOT of filler on it. This puzzled me for a moment because I know there isn't any filler there but then I realised it was the soundproofing stuff on the inside; it makes a huge difference!
mylesdw
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Marker lights look great...workshop looks great too
It's a bit full of crap at the moment but I'm working on that.
I refitted the rear hubs and Travis from Amberley Truck came and adjusted the bearings. You need a special tool that costs £160 secondhand on eBay. That would be over $400 by the time it arrived here so worth paying someone else to do it. Apparently it is quite easy to get wrong and ruin a new set of bearings.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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In case of great need think of using a 9 to 16 inch inch long punch made from 3/4 AF hex bar with a half inch dia flat nose & a 2 & 1/2 pound engineers hammer to gently tap the ring nut round or skip the punch and use a tyre lever & the hammer . Rotate the hub two full turns after each tap and also press the brakes to help bed & centralize the hub in on the bearings .
For future adjustments that you will need to make , keep and eye out for some thick walled tube of the same diameter about a foot long . Use an angle grinder to make the castellated cuts on a cut square end & drill it to take a decent 18 inch long tommy bar .
For future adjustments that you will need to make , keep and eye out for some thick walled tube of the same diameter about a foot long . Use an angle grinder to make the castellated cuts on a cut square end & drill it to take a decent 18 inch long tommy bar .
So that tool is just the means of adjusting the special nut and not for actually setting the running clearance of the bearings then. For example on my LDV van you tighten the nut and then back it off a smidgen and then split pin the castellated nut to set the correct loading on the bearing.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Yes , but sometime you need to pre load the bearing by taking it as tight as you can or to a torque setting whilst ensuring the hub with a brake drum & wheel fitted will still barely rotate , then back it off 60 degrees to give a very light pre load & no end float .
Always check the repair books to check if this is the case . Get it wrong & you can lose a wheel complete with brake drum just at the wrong moment such as on a long bend going down a steep hill .
Though it is amusing to see a four foot high tank transporter tow truck wheel running on ahead of the Mighty Antar when it happens ..... so long as it's you stood high up a bank on the bend .
Always check the repair books to check if this is the case . Get it wrong & you can lose a wheel complete with brake drum just at the wrong moment such as on a long bend going down a steep hill .
Though it is amusing to see a four foot high tank transporter tow truck wheel running on ahead of the Mighty Antar when it happens ..... so long as it's you stood high up a bank on the bend .
Pigeon_Droppings2
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I always remember the story my dad used to tell me as a kid....he was going round a bend and in the corner of his eye he spotted a wheel travelling off at a tangent.He said his immediate thought was "hey some idiot's wheel has just come off"...you can guess what happened next...yep he was the idiot in question!
mylesdw
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That's what you do - tighten up with a big bar, loosen, retighten by hand, back off 1/6 turn, add lock nut and washer.
What Travis explained was that on older stuff where the threads are worn, adding the lock nut removes the end-float so you have to be careful to re-check the end float.
Which is what I was saying on my LDV bearings . I had that happen to me years ago on my Healey 3000, I had had the rear offside axle shaft off to change a leaking gasket. It was held on with a large nut of which I did not have a socket large enough to fit. So I tightened it as tight as I could and then used a punch and hammer on a flat to give it a final loading, which is what I used to loosen it in the first place.. Not far down the road the wheel, axle and all, overtook me! I was not going very fast and no real damage was done. I was in Germany with the RAF and took the nut to the camp civvies, all Germans,who carried out the maintenance on the base who kindly made me a socket out of a bit of large pipe with four welded pieces of flat bar inside to the size of the nut. Jobs a good in. I still have that socket but unfortunately not the Healey.
jpmillermatic
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Hey, when did you put that bull bar on there?!
looks great
JP
looks great
JP
jpmillermatic
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now that gives it purpose!...what color is the body going to be? leaving it grey?
JP
JP
mylesdw
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It may or may not get a coat of paint. It's a fairly rough old body with quite a bit of rot although it is water-tight. Plan at the moment is to fit it out as a fairly basic camper and use it for a few years. If it works out well I may tear the whole thing down to the deck and build a new house-truck body.
In the mean time the first job is to get a COF (Cert of Fitness) on it so I have booked it in with the guys up at Amberley Truck so that they can give it a good going over. Before then I gave a handful of little items such as mirrors and rear lights to sort out.
In the mean time the first job is to get a COF (Cert of Fitness) on it so I have booked it in with the guys up at Amberley Truck so that they can give it a good going over. Before then I gave a handful of little items such as mirrors and rear lights to sort out.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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That looks great...even with the old rear on there. I like your thinking of living with it for a little while and then formulating a practical plan based on use...nothing worse than spending a load of time building something and then having "Phase2" of extensive changes to get what you really need.
Great thread so far....of course we'd all like to see a full strip down and camper conversion...with lots of pics
Great thread so far....of course we'd all like to see a full strip down and camper conversion...with lots of pics
