I think to do a droplet coat not using fast thinner in future. It doesn’t flow out unless you pile it on. I’ve got some medium hardener and thinner on order.Get yourself on to the Gunman channel on you tube , he will show you whats required , rather than me trying to explain, as norsa said , easiest way as base your repair ,then dropletcoat to fade out into panels adjacent on both sides if you get what iam at, keep your adjacent panels masked when coating the repair and remove masking only when your away to do your droplet coat fade out, then clear all 3 panels.
Whats ghosting? When I did that panel years ago, I covered the primer with the base, then extended each coat slightly before finally re clearing the entire panel. It’s a shame that it didn’t last. The 1K clear faded over time. The base coat underneath it all cracked. The car was out in cold weather soon after the repair instead of being left to harden for a week or so. I think I cut through the clear when I sanded it. There were pin holes everywhere I noticed when I sanded it off the other day. I think I may have made lots of tiny holes over the base. Then the moisture got in over time and caused the base to crack. Now that I’ve got a decent gun that actually atomises properly and lays base and clear down nice, I’m hoping I’ll never see cracked base coat again.I do think you are trying to run before you can walk. Local blending in met/mica takes practice. Easier to flat the whole panel, flick your colour in till it holds out then clear the entire panel. I sometimes take out ghosting with grey scotch between light first coats until it holds out then blend and clear.
Nick
What I mean is my base never used to form completely on the panel no matter what I did. It was because my spray gun was a cheap worn out Clarke that wouldn’t atomise properly. It used to be in lumps everywhere and would stay bumpy. Now my base forms properly. It’s fine. Base is no problem now. Then when I put the clear over it, it does not go on smooth unless I move the gun a bit slower. It’s because I had extra fast hardener and fast thinner. If I move the gun too fast the orange peel is terrible. Slow it down and the orange peel is fine. I will be having to move the gun faster with the new clear I’ve got on order. I’ll still have to move the gun slower with 1K clear because that needs slow movement as well.you keep mentioning baecoat flowing out...it doesnt
while you dont want it going on like sandpaper , dont keep heaving it on expecting it to flow flat
my thoughts...prep a large area , one coat to cover the primer /repair , another coat just beyond that , then flick it out away from the repair until it seems to fade out , tack cloth off any dry overspray then clear coat it
When you want a high gloss finish that's when you want the Paint to flow out, you not trying to achieve a gloss finish with base coat, in fact if you put enough base on that it does flow you will see unwanted patterns in the metallic element of the paint
I know. I mean the base atomises properly now. It doesn’t land on the panel in lumps like it did with my old gun. There is nothing wrong with the base coat now.When you want a high gloss finish that's when you want the Paint to flow out, you not trying to achieve a gloss finish with base coat, in fact if you put enough base on that it does flow you will see unwanted patterns in the metallic element of the paint
No drip test measurements for technico coatings. Carbon suggested adjusting my clear to about 18 seconds. I’ve got Mipa clear on order now. I’ll set it’s viscosity at around 18 if I can’t see any viscosity test on the cans. Their website doesn’t work currently.If you have your gun set right and drip test is good, top coat speed is about 1sec to 1mtr
That’s what I’ve started to do now. I’ve got two thinners cans I tested on the other day. The clear on the first side of a can was shot with the gun moving fast. It was awful. I slowed the gun down on the other 3 sides I sprayed. Clear looked spot on.thats why you spray out onto a test peice , if the paint comes out in blobs or runs off onto the floor then some adjustments are required before putting onto a car , with more experience you will instantly know if the gun needs a tweak or more thinners etc
What do those numbers and DG mean? Mixing ratio?I use the mixing stick. Primer 3.5 DG 3 Base 2.5 to what ever manufacturer then set the gun accordingly and tweak the thinner if necessary.
Their website doesn’t work currently.
I keep getting thisMipa's site with SDS and Product info can be found here https://www.mipa-paints.com/en/products/car-refinishing/
So the ghosting is the overspray edge?Your picture2 is a classic ghosting. Its micro pickling round a repaired area normally caused by insufficient prep or too heavy early coats of base or too slow a thinner or too thin the paint. It generally happens with basecoat as the high solvent content attacks the substrate