Edward Yemm
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Also, what do people use for cutting paste. I use farecla G3 but like others have said, it’s so messy.
- Thread starter Edward Yemm
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steveo3002
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why are you painting up to masking tape ? wont ever end well
Edward Yemm
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I didn’t think I’d got that much paint that close to it. When I pulled the tape away I realised that little bit of overspray was actually a lot. I was trying to do a small area like that other guy. I must have had my gun facing too far towards the tape instead of away from it. Difficult to only aim it one way when doing an arch though. Paint obviously got sent in all directions. If I’d have flicked the paint right out instead it would have been ok.
RaceDiagnostics
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G3 is the only thing I have ever used, I normally sand with 1500, da with 3000, then polish with G3 and call it good.
Would be interested to hear is there is something better/easier.
Would be interested to hear is there is something better/easier.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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Listen to people everything is better according to them. Nothing is easier.
Way back in a previous re-incarnation I was Hot Sh1t with a paint gun. One thing I can tell you, putting the paint on is not hard, but the prep and polish need to be perfect and this requires real effort. If you don't do these tasks meticulously you are wasting your time. I started painting vehicles way back when with my father and this involved brushes and lots of wet and dry. Beautiful deep finishes though with proper coach paint.
It taught me a great deal about painting and ruined me for painting household interiors. I take so long to paint a door the missus goes into meltdown.
Edward Yemm
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I’m so peed off with myself. I had some primer to re do on the lower half of the arch. If I’d have done that area first and then resprayed the whole area without any tape edges and without spraying over ANY sanded lacquer I’d have done a better job.
That dull area between the two sides is sanded lacquer. It’s clearly remained dull after I’ve sprayed the new lacquer over it. I should have flicked the metallic and lacquer out over onto un sanded lacquer like I did with the top.
The dull patch is only there because I sprayed over sanded lacquer. Too bloody difficult to blend.
I got it right first of all. I reckon the newly sprayed lacquer has a habit of remaining dull when you sand it. When I’ve done this with old lacquer, I’ve not had an issue. Perfect blend. I’m still learning. Anyway. I’m seething so I’m going to sleep on it before I end up taking a lump hammer to the panel.
That dull area between the two sides is sanded lacquer. It’s clearly remained dull after I’ve sprayed the new lacquer over it. I should have flicked the metallic and lacquer out over onto un sanded lacquer like I did with the top.
The dull patch is only there because I sprayed over sanded lacquer. Too bloody difficult to blend.
I got it right first of all. I reckon the newly sprayed lacquer has a habit of remaining dull when you sand it. When I’ve done this with old lacquer, I’ve not had an issue. Perfect blend. I’m still learning. Anyway. I’m seething so I’m going to sleep on it before I end up taking a lump hammer to the panel.
Edward Yemm
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norsa
old school painter
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As I've said before, with the greatest respect you're trying to run before you're walking but respect for having a go. You don't ever blend to a hard line, only shut lines if the local is far enough away. It's about lessons. I've been spraying cars for 40yrs now and have taught the subject but even I learn an occasional lesson.
Nick
Nick
Can you get basecoat blender thinners in an aerosol? I have a rear wing wheelarch to do in silver. I have a 2k aerosol clear and will do the complete wing in it but worry about the the basecoat blending as I only want to do the repair area with it. I see a Spraymax 1k blender would that do it?
steveo3002
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blending thinners has always been for the clear coat edge
might be wrong , ive never needed or wanted to use it on basecoat
but yeah you can get it in rattle cans
might be wrong , ive never needed or wanted to use it on basecoat
but yeah you can get it in rattle cans
steveo3002
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yeah there is a couple of methods for colours that dont blend well ...like i say ive not used thinners for it
try without ...its more for like the side of a van or something
try without ...its more for like the side of a van or something
Edward Yemm
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Yes. I should have moved the hard line a lot further back. In this instance though, the line isn’t the complete issue. On both sides of the line the paint is shiny and the metallic particles are a plenty. On the area between, barely any of the metallic is visible and the black is dull. This area contains the sanded clear, which is one of the culprits. I think this is the reason I can see the metallic particles really standing out on the lower side of the join and creating a hologram effect. They really stand out over the sanded clear. It’s all learning.
Edward Yemm
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I’ve seen this clear basecoat being used on videos. It’s sprayed over the whole panel between the basecoat patch and the clear. I don’t know if you can get it in a can. Pro XL do Pro Blend in an aerosol can. I used that in the past over the clear coat edge but got a halo (light line) between the repair area and the existing paint. I’ve re cleared that whole door in the past, over a patch of basecoat in the middle. No visible edge to the basecoat. This time, there is a visible edge that looks like a hologram. Must be where the basecoat is sat at two different levels. The sanded clear that I sprayed over on the right of the photo is hiding the metallic too much and has come up dull looking when re coated.
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Edward Yemm
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My plan of action is to sand the join down. Light mist of basecoat just until the sanded area is completely covered. Then re clear over the area. No sanding the existing clear this time. See what that turns out like. Should go ok as that’s what I did at the top of the panel. I know it will peel off eventually. Clear has peeled off this panel over the years. I realised, when I prepped this panel; it has been blended already. It looks like they had the same problem with the shine over any sanded clear. Perhaps they just didn’t bother sanding the existing paint at all? I never noticed that the panel had been blended until I started sanding it. So, yes, the clear will peel over the years. Which will fail first though? The clear, or the cars engine? BMW 1 series Diesel engines are known for their timing chain failures. Ours has no timing chain rattle, so far....
steveo3002
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dont think theres many painters that would reccomend painting over shiny clear , people keep giving you advice but you make up your own ways instead
Edward Yemm
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I’ve listened to and used advice that you guys have given me. I have respect for the knowledge that you all have. Far more than mine. All I know is that the sanded clear isn’t liking being sprayed over? Maybe there was some dust left in the sanding scratches which is causing the dulling? I’ve sprayed clear over sanded clear before without an issue. I’ve tried doing what various people suggested. Different techniques. Left scratching my head.
steveo3002
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must be doing something very wrong , grey scotch pad /1200 /1000 should be fine , people are doing all day every day , some even use 800
