Box section for shelving

[angellonewolf]

I don't think it's going to take much weight

ever time i say to someone dont put to much weight on it as the wall is not that strong

next time ive seen it books all over the place up to ceiling glass solid oriments and the shelf is leaning like to tower of pizsa

 

[Screwdriver]

ever time i say to someone dont put to much weight on it as the wall is not that strong

next time ive seen it books all over the place up to ceiling glass solid oriments and the shelf is leaning like to tower of pizsa

The final construction will have 12 x 6mm rawlbolts holding it up. Because we went with 2mm thick 1" box section you could probably park a car on it but it's just going around a telly. I think the shelves are getting big planks of wood, possibly live edge but I wouldn't put it past him to use railway sleepers.

 

[angellonewolf]

^^^ or conti board

 

[Screwdriver]

Arms are done, cut to size anyway.

This is what the concealed bolt join will look like. I am struggling to stop myself from cutting a matching radius into the mating part. It's a really tiny radius...

Then whiled away the hours deburring the shelf supports. All 12 of them (thats one hundred and ninety two individual operations with a file/deburring tool).

They're ready now to be drilled for screws/fixings and welded up.

 

[Screwdriver]

A lot more holes to install before I can weld this up...

Spotted with a stubby lathe centre bit then drilled through for all the 6mm holes.

Then deep countersink on one side, just break the edge on the other before deburring with a Noga tool.

I modified the size of the large cap head clearance hole. 17mm was too big, 15mm is the absolute smallest I could go with the head so these are 15.5mm clearance for the bolts.

I turned these found items down and have some regular cap head bolts on order.

They just fit...

Remembering this hole is a permanent feature under the lower shelf. I may still find a plug for it.

Ready to weld! Set up with the appropriate spacers to make sure it all fits and stays square.

The critical part is ensuring this surface is flush and the stay is square. The arm is free to rotate so it just needs to be installed correctly.

Last look at the captive square nuts before they get plugged...

There they are gone.

I did fully weld out the rest of the arms but it was too late to fire up the grinder, so no pics.

Finish off the main ladder section tomorrow and then - blacking...

 

[Screwdriver]

...and just when I thought I couldn't possibly fit any more holes into this project.

Of course I had to finish off the main uprights. Measure up, check front/back top/bottom (these are handed now), drill csk and deep csk for mounting screws.

Then I need to weld this out. I think it will just get a top and bottom fillet on each cross piece. The upright will be the only fully visible part so I want to avoid too much grinding on the side of these long pieces.

Need more frequent tea breaks now because it would be really easy to mix up these parts or build it upside down/inside out

 

[Screwdriver]

That was tricky. Setting up everything square on a plane on a warped bench just slightly too small.

Got there in the end and the second one was a lot easier.

Then I stood back to admire my work...

I drilled wall mounting holes in both uprights.

 

[Mark 2]

Lovely stuff Sir, I can thoroughly recommend a flat bench for so many reasons.

 

[Paul.]

To reduce the heat input and the risk of distortion, and make the weld bead flatter, weld the joints vertical down, its faster too.

 

[Screwdriver]

Thanks. I think I’ll be cutting these up and replacing the front uprights....

 

[Screwdriver]

To reduce the heat input and the risk of distortion, and make the weld bead flatter, weld the joints vertical down, its faster too.

A handy tip thinks. Bit better

So if you could jump in right at the start next time, that would be great

The other problem I had is that I would set up my position, get a decent light throw, make sure I'm not shadowing the light, fire it up and my vision goes blank!

I have a decent enough helmet, Speedglas 9100x but increasingly I have noticed it's impossible to see where I am going. Once the welding starts it's literally guesswork where the joint is.

So I discover the front element hasn't been cleaned since, well since forever. I need to know what the buttons do and not randomly pick a number (gonna Google that now) and if the weld is slightly above, the glare doesn't blow out the image. Sometimes it's OK and I can see the join but you don't find out until the instant you fire it up when you can suddenly be welding in the dark...

 

[Yamhon]

A handy tip thinks. Bit better

So if you could jump in right at the start next time, that would be great

The other problem I had is that I would set up my position, get a decent light throw, make sure I'm not shadowing the light, fire it up and my vision goes blank!

I have a decent enough helmet, Speedglas 9100x but increasingly I have noticed it's impossible to see where I am going. Once the welding starts it's literally guesswork where the joint is.

So I discover the front element hasn't been cleaned since, well since forever. I need to know what the buttons do and not randomly pick a number (gonna Google that now) and if the weld is slightly above, the glare doesn't blow out the image. Sometimes it's OK and I can see the join but you don't find out until the instant you fire it up when you can suddenly be welding in the dark...

On struggling to see the joint; I've had people suggest drawing chalk lines along joint, or for laying beads tyep stuff score a line with a grinder and for certain applications clamp an off cut near the joint as the edge of the off cut is easier to see and helps you gauge where the joint is.

 

[Mark 2]

Chalk works, though I think I'd give the speedglas some attention - you'll have to at some point.
What about if you could get a scaled down version of one of those plane parking chaps.

 

[Screwdriver]

On struggling to see the joint; I've had people suggest drawing chalk lines along joint, or for laying beads tyep stuff score a line with a grinder and for certainly applications clamp an off cut near the joint as the edge of the off cut is easier to see and helps you gauge where the joint is.

I think I had a fair bit more grime on the visor than I really should and was getting a lot of flare, plus this time after cleaning it, I actually read the instructions...

Also whipped out the cheapo lens cheater I had fitted since day one. I think the next session will go a lot better. Nothing more frustrating than laying a perfect bead only to discover you missed the join. Come on, we've all done it.

Err guys?

Ok just me then...

 

[Mark 2]

Get the flap disc before anyone notices.

 

[Sammy7]

And me

 

[Screwdriver]

BTW I discussed the bozo mistake with the extra holes with the intended victim. He thought it was hilarious...

Anyhow, I need to do a few tests to see if I can plug a hole and not have to strip all the mill scale off to get a decent look with chemical blacking. The blacking process looks amazing so finger crossed I don't have to strip the whole thing or bite the bullet and just paint it instead.

Early indications suggest I will need to dip it rather than merely brush on this particular type.

It does appear to cover the scale equally well though I am expecting or even hoping for a slightly distressed industrial look. In the above, only the last extra dark bit was dipped, the unacceptable bluing above that was brushed on. It is possible I got the test piece too hot when, stone cold, it didn't appear to do anything.

 

[Yamhon]

I think I had a fair bit more grime on the visor than I really should and was getting a lot of flare, plus this time after cleaning it, I actually read the instructions...

Also whipped out the cheapo lens cheater I had fitted since day one. I think the next session will go a lot better. Nothing more frustrating than laying a perfect bead only to discover you missed the join. Come on, we've all done it.

Err guys?

Ok just me then...

I've done it; think I sometimes lean in too much and get my lens filthy, can't see much out of then and its a vicious cycle for awhile until I too clean the lens and start a fresh :-)

 

[slim_boy_fat]

The blacking process looks amazing so finger crossed I don't have to strip the whole thing or bite the bullet and just paint it instead.

Iirc, @The_Yellow_Ardvark did this using a kit.

 

[Screwdriver]

Hmm. Well I made up a test piece.

Welded up the offending holes. Badly. On purpose

To see if I could grind them out and see the effect on chem blacking and mill scale.

Looks like I'll have to dip it. This particular product does not respond well to painting on, nor is it particularly good with mill scale. So the scale will have to come off and I run into another problem with those manufacturing marks under the scale. Doesn't look like much but it means I have to take a fair bit of metal off to get under the scale in those divots.

So (@Parm) I decided to think on it over a cuppatea. (I got distracted)