Brierley Drill Grinder ZB50

[Agroshield]

In your photo showing the three gears in the workhead, mark them well before you dismantle there.

The timing of the gears is very important.

Where the coolant has reached the bearings, can it pool and sit there? If so, consider drilling a drainage hole so the suds go somewhere else (even onto the stand).

 

[Smouser]

In your photo showing the three gears in the workhead, mark them well before you dismantle there.

The timing of the gears is very important.

Where the coolant has reached the bearings, can it pool and sit there? If so, consider drilling a drainage hole so the suds go somewhere else (even onto the stand).

Thanks. Good tip.

Luckily I have not disassembled the gears yet. I probably would have just taken them out

I think the coolant came in via the screw hole in the top of the cap. I will add a sealing washer when I refit it.

Probably also worth replacing the two O-rings to help prevent coolant ingress.

 

[Stupoty]

Good idea.

I am planning to run coolant on mine (even though it causes havoc when the water/coolant get into bearings and small spaces).

I got a Brierley 32 a while ago and stripped it down to clean out grit issues and made some missing parts.

The amount of grit dust it generates when i tested it without coolant has made me not use it until I get the coolant set up sorted



Stu

 

[Smouser]

I got a Brierley 32 a while ago and stripped it down to clean out grit issues and made some missing parts.

The amount of grit dust it generates when i tested it without coolant has made me not use it until I get the coolant set up sorted



Stu

Have you posted some photos/made a thread of yours?

 

[Stupoty]

Have you posted some photos/made a thread of yours?

No , I guess I should do

The videos from "Shed Made" on youtube were very helpful when I was figuring out what was missing on mine and working out the sizes and timing the cam mechanism.

Stu

 

[Agroshield]

The amount of grit dust it generates when i tested it without coolant has made me not use it

If you look at pictures of them, they came with a chute that goes under the wheel. You can connect vacuum extraction to that.

With some thought, you could extend that chute to make the suction even better.

 

[Stupoty]

If you look at pictures of them, they came with a chute that goes under the wheel. You can connect vacuum extraction to that.

With some thought, you could extend that chute to make the suction even better.

Good idea , it definitely need something for grit control , I can see how it got as full of grinding dust as it was when I got it.

Stu

 

[Erie Fred]

If you look at pictures of them, they came with a chute that goes under the wheel. You can connect vacuum extraction to that.

With some thought, you could extend that chute to make the suction even better.

Yup, mine came with that, and I added a exhaust duct & fan there.

 

[Brad93]

You've got to have either coolant with filter like on a surface grinder or dust extraction.

 

[Smouser]

Progress has been slow but I have made some.

I stripped the main motor apart, replaced the two inside bearings (the external one will be fitted after is is painted), put it back together and stripped the paint.

The carriage was removed from the machine base

The additional grinding motor removed

The base of the machine loosened and lifted.
It was NASTY. There were all sorts of things growing there from old coolant. The smell was not too pleasant either.

I am not too sure how coolant got underneath the base. It is either through some bolt holes or by the shaft which the workhead lower section sits on or it leaked in via the sides.
I will need to think about what I want to do when it comes to reassembly. Possibly seal the base with silicone onto the 'chip/drip' tray/pan, silicone in the bolt holes and try to make sure the shaft is properly sealed.
I could also add an additional drain hole in the centre of the chip/drip/pan so old coolant does not sit there when it does get in underneath the base.

I used some degreaser, a wire brush and water to clean some of the muck off.

I now have the horrible job of paint stripping with grinders fitted with flap discs, wire wheels and paint stripping discs, hence the slow progress.

As it is a Sunday, I can't do it outside either. To contain the noise a little, I need to strip paint in the garage making a big dusty mess

The cabinet was full of old drilled holes when it had switches and isolators fitted. Not sure yet if it is worth welding them all up filling them with epoxy or just leaving them.

 

[Agroshield]

I will need to think about what I want to do when it comes to reassembly.

Could you put some 20mm high stand-offs between cabinet and cast base? Then you could blow out any accumulated coolant after use or jack up one side of the machine and let it drain for 10 minutes.

The problem is not that the coolant gets there in the first place, it is that it stays there and festers.

 

[Smouser]

A bit scarce on the photos but I welded up loads of little holes in the cabinet and grinded them back down.

I was running out of space to place bits down and I can't paint everything at once anyway so I decided to paint the bits that were prepared.

Once painted and dried, I can start refitting some bits to save on space.

Paragon Zinc primer

I was not sure if I would have enough Paragon top coat so I decided to use Rustoleum 'hammered' blue paint. Once I realised they are discontinuing that paint, I bought all the remaining cans I could find (5). The hammered effect is mild and probably hard to see on the photos.

I have just finished (2100hrs). I now need to clear up all the stuff

But first, this forum post and a well deserved brew!

I hope it doesn't rain as the painted bits will have to sleep outside tonight.

 

[Brad93]

That's top work there mate

 

[Smouser]

The painted bits stayed outside last night and I checked on them this morning. The paint was still slightly tacky.

I have thrown the hammered paint on pretty thick as I found you get the best hammered effect if you do a heavy coat, just before the paint starts to run (sometimes easier said than done).

I checked on the bits again tonight and the paint is touch dry but still pretty soft. The painted parts could have done with staying outside one more day without being handled but the forecast have a chance of rain tonight/tomorrow.

I used a three penny spacers on the front side between the cabinet and the 'pan' to tilt the pan backwards a little. Hopefully, that will help the coolant towards the rear of the pan into the drain.

Looking at the photo, three washers might be overkill. Might take one out from each side.

I decided to use @Agroshield suggestion of using spacers under the base so that coolant does not get stuck underneath the base and grow all sorts of nasty stuff.

I quickly made some aluminium spacers on the Elliott Omnispeed.

I then 'fitted' the base.

The original cap head bolts are obviously now way too short and I used some longer coach bolts to sit in the holes loosely.

I will order some new bolts this week. I think stainless steel will be the best option.

The cabinet and base can now be rolled into the garage, the other bits are still hanging outside.

I better get to it before it is dark..

 

[Agroshield]

I used a three penny spacers on the front side between the cabinet and the 'pan' to tilt the pan backwards a little.

I quickly made some aluminium spacers on the Elliott Omnispeed.

You did not say the clever bit: you made two of the spacers slightly longer to compensate for the washers underneath, so the cast base still stays level.

 

[Smouser]

You did not say the clever bit: you made two of the spacers slightly longer to compensate for the washers underneath, so the cast base still stays level.

I would have if I were that clever

To be fair, the garage floor is not level and I will probably move the machine around a bit in the overcrowded garage to get to other things so keeping it level will always be challenging.

I don't think it is critical for the machine to be level anyway.

 

[Smouser]

Progress has been slow on the Brierley.
I have been procrastinating cleaning parts and stripping paint off parts because I am sick of grinder work and wire wheel wires sticking in my skin
One day, when I am grown up, I will have more space to sandblast somewhere in the corner of my property and all will be well.

That being said I have completed most of the paint stripping and cleaning of parts, I only have one more lot remaining (coolant tank + tray, optional cross-sharpening motor and a few other bits).

A few random images of stripped parts before cleaning (more so I can remember where they came from).

Same story as always - there is a lubricating nipple, let's pump grease into it

I was ready to paint the next lot of parts a couple of days ago.

I used HB05 primer from HMG paints (which I got at an auction). It was obviously sitting for a little while and required a good stirring.
Manually mixing the paint did not seem to work too well/slow progress so I quickly made another TOP quality tool out of some drill rod

It worked MUCH better than manually trying to stir the paint.

I used the £21.86 Ani AH1509003A 1.8mm nozzle spray gun @Kram found and linked at some point.
It worked well.

There were lots of suicide bugs about. One of the downsides of painting outside.

The paint has been drying outside for about two days but the weather is changing and rain is expected. So today, I will start getting the bits inside and refit the parts to the machine.

 

[Smouser]

I started to refit some parts of the machine.

New coolant nozzle and connectors.

I then moved on to the compound table assembly

The worm wheel (item 15) which the top leadscrew 'rides' on, is slightly damaged. I think it will still work fine though. I guess the leadscrew slipped at some point during the machine's life causing the damge.

I then refitted the main motor, the external bearing, and the 'terminal cover/switches box' for the motor.

 

[Smouser]

Next up was refitting some parts of the bottom bracket and head.

Bottom bracket

Head

Fitting the new thrust bearings, one set in between the two brackets and one in between the top bracket and the retaining nuts.

Blue grease for a blue machine.

It was at this point where I should have quit while I was ahead, as EVERYTHING rapidly went downhill from here on onwards.

I wanted to fit the setting guide (items 85, 86, 88 and associated little parts on the head parts list). However, the screw did not want to go in smoothly so I grabbed a Dormer M6 tap to clean up the threads.
Carelessness =

Broken stuck tap in the hole (item 94 on the head assembly diagram). I tried to back it out with a hammer and screwdriver, punch and cold chisel but had no luck.
Quick google 'how to remove broken tap' and I had a few options.

One of the recommendations was to use an endmill. Carbide round nose preferably.
I did not have a round nose endmill in that size so I went with a Chinese 4mm endmill.

It "worked" for a little bit and I got about half of the broken tap out before the endmill gave up and started to destroy itself.

No point in destroying another endmill. I could just quickly remake the part, tap and drill the two holes, easy peasy.

I opened my drawers with bits of stock metal and found a piece with the correct OD. It was a piece of titanium - good I thought, now it won't rust and I won't have to paint it either.
The only problem = I have never machined titanium before.

It faced off well.

I used a spot drill and then grabbed a 5mm drill bit to drill through the centre of the piece of the titanium.

I was a bit hasty, the rpm was probably too high and I 'forced' the drill a little.
Result = destroyed 5mm drill bit

Slowed the lathe down, used more lubricant, finished the hole and parted the part off.
The 'chips' came of stringy and were foil-like.

Next up was tapping the M6 hole in the titanium.
The tap went in fine about a quarter of the way and then started getting tight. Because I ALREADY snapped a tap today I backed out, added loads more lubricant and then went in and out with the tap, each time making a bit more progress.
It was slow going and when I was nearly all the way through the tap got VERY tight again.

Yep, you guessed it, ANOTHER snapped tap

It seems that it is not that easy to tap titanium.

 

[Smouser]

Back to the lathe, this time using some 303 SS stock. Remake the part, drill and tap. Success. Finally!

Have you been keeping count?
Destroyed two M6 taps, 5mm drill bit, 4mm endmill and two parts.

They can all go in the box of shame.

The drill guide finally fitted.

While I was having so much success with my machining, I decided to remake a part which has got some wear to it.

I VERY briefly considered using a piece of titanium

But quickly hid the titanium away from myself.

I settled on a piece of 316 SS that was close to the dimension I needed.

I even got to use my old donkey saw.

On to the mill to get it to dimension.

When I was done and ready to drill the various holes I realised the DRO (eBay Chinese jobby) on the mill was not working .
There is power going into it, but it is completely dead.

Enough for the day. Too many failures and things going wrong.

Close the garage door, drink some brandy and try again another day.