Brierley Drill Grinder ZB50

[Agroshield]

I just purchased a ZB50, one cam. But I do have the original manuals that could be some help

If you are able to scan them, please could you send them to vintagemachinery.org , as they will archive them. Being in the US, they might have facilities to scan them for you if that is not your thing.

The drill grinder sold by Rush Machinery in US is a Brierley clone or licensed copy.

 

[Monarch]

Ill try to get a good scan. I have the original color brochures from the 1982 for the zb50, zb25 and zb32. The price list for the grinders and attachments, Mounting and operating the GripTru Chuck. Nice folder of info. I will work on scanning.

 

[Monarch]

The Brierley ZB50 Operators Manual has been uploaded to VintageMachinery.Org.

 

[Smouser]

Ill try to get a good scan. I have the original color brochures from the 1982 for the zb50, zb25 and zb32. The price list for the grinders and attachments, Mounting and operating the GripTru Chuck. Nice folder of info. I will work on scanning.

Very nice, it will be great to see them.

The Brierley ZB50 Operators Manual has been uploaded to VintageMachinery.Org.

Great stuff. I can't see it yet, I guess it is waiting for approval from the admins.

 

[Smouser]

@Monarch thank you very much for uploading the manual to VintageMachinery, I got it.

Your manual is much better quality than my dodgy French translated one.

 

[Monarch]

Glad to share

 

[Smouser]

My Brierley new signage arrived today.
I ordered it from Colourfrog again.

Last time, I used a big guillotine at work in the workshop to 'cut' it all out. That machine is currently out of order.

The options I have tried at home:
1. Scoring/cutting with stanley blade = unsuccessful

2. Heavy duty scissors

It bends and deforms the dibond.

3. Jigsaw

Works okish.

4. Tracksaw (wood tct blade)

While all those methods work to a degree, nothing compares to the nice clean guillotine cuts I had before.

I am leaving the rest of the signs and will try to get access to a guillotine somewhere/wait for the one at work to be fixed.

 

[Agroshield]

Just spent a bit of time mapping the cams I have and modelling them.

Will post the raw data and basic dimensions later on.

Would be interested in obtaining dimensions for any of the left hand cams (or a suitably-secured loan of one).

Just in case someone is to suggest reflecting the RH ones to make LH ones, in the very first thread in this post there is a No. 7 (LH) cam and a No. 8 (RH). The two are for the same purpose and clearly not just mirror images of each other.

 

[Smouser]

Cool!

I found some data on mapped cams on other forums ages ago too (I did not download it but I am sure it can be found again).

It will be interesting to see how well a 3D-printed cam holds up in use.....
If it lasts for 20+ drills it will be worth just printing them if they wear out.
I mean, how many LH drills does one really sharpen in a hobby shop?

I have a Red 7 cam.

 

[Agroshield]

I found some data on mapped cams on other forums ages ago too (I did not download it but I am sure it can be found again).

It is here:

Brierley ZB25 drill grinder - Cams

Just finished measuring the 2x cams that I have, the Standard RH 2 Flute cam (2) and the RH Step Drill Cam (6) Measured on a rotary table with cam rotating Clockwise when viewed from above. '0' angle is at the index pin. 10 Degree increments, dropping to 5 degree at the critical transitions...

www.practicalmachinist.com

I will try to overlay my measurements with those and see how well they match.

If a person were satisfied that the modelled shape is good, JLCPCB print in stainless steel. Just dropped the No. 2 there and it is saying $33 plus $20 shipping*. You could probably make that cheaper by printing a thinner bottom section and grafting it to a simple steel disk.

You could use a 3DP plastic one as a master to make one out of metal on a horizontal spindle rotary table.

Any chance to measure the diameter of the follower roller on yours please. I cannot get to mine right now. On the No. 10, the ramps are quite steep and I would like to make sure none of the modelled radii are smaller than the roller diameter.

* wait a couple of days for them to clone the design and there will be one for sale on Ali.

 

[Smouser]

Any chance to measure the diameter of the follower roller on yours please.

Firstly, you never siad you had a Brierley?!?

The follower is a 6262 bearing on mine.

 

[Agroshield]

Firstly, you never said you had a Brierley

Machine tool collecting is like embarrassing rashes, something only to be spoken of in front of a doctor.

Attached are raw data files from cam mapping (generally mapped at 4 degree increments, except where slope was steep) and the same data padded out by linear interpolation to cover one degree increments.

Also attached is pdf of blank sheeet used for mapping, pdf of cam dimensions and pictures of fixture used for mapping. In the pictures, imagine the dial indicator is held lightly in a collet in the machine spindle. I've lost the top screw-on cover from my imperial indicator, so that is why the measurements are in metric.

Centre RT under spindle and bolt down. Remove centring plug and set RT dial to zero. Strap on any old bit of scrap. Drill through and ream 0.500" in centre. Offset 0.4585" (see drawing) in Y for pin hole and drill part depth 4.3mm (hole in cam is 0.170") for locating pin. Reference zero off painted face of cam. Offset 0.750" in Y (mid-point of follower running surface) and take zero degree angular reading.

I checked all the cam profiles and from the 3/4" diameter follower's point of view, none have a concave radius of curvature less than 3/8".

 

[Smouser]

Machine tool collecting is like embarrassing rashes, something only to be spoken of in front of a doctor.

Attached are raw data files from cam mapping (generally mapped at 4 degree increments, except where slope was steep) and the same data padded out by linear interpolation to cover one degree increments.

Also attached is pdf of blank sheeet used for mapping, pdf of cam dimensions and pictures of fixture used for mapping. In the pictures, imagine the dial indicator is held lightly in a collet in the machine spindle. I've lost the top screw-on cover from my imperial indicator, so that is why the measurements are in metric.

Centre RT under spindle and bolt down. Remove centring plug and set RT dial to zero. Strap on any old bit of scrap. Drill through and ream 0.500" in centre. Offset 0.4585" (see drawing) in Y for pin hole and drill part depth 4.3mm (hole in cam is 0.170") for locating pin. Reference zero off painted face of cam. Offset 0.750" in Y (mid-point of follower running surface) and take zero degree angular reading.

I checked all the cam profiles and from the 3/4" diameter follower's point of view, none have a concave radius of curvature less than 3/8".

View attachment 464996
View attachment 464998
View attachment 464997
View attachment 464999

Great work!

Now, for your next trick, upload files that can be printed on a 3D printer!!

I might need to send you all the cams I have that you don't so they can be mapped.

 

[Agroshield]

Now, for your next trick, upload files that can be printed on a 3D printer!

See post #68 above, from last Sunday. I thought the attachment contained .stl files. If it is corrupted, please say and I will redo.

I could also upload them as .STEP files or FreeCAD models (but everyone here disdains that software, hence the raw data so all the confusionistas or offshapers can have a go themselves).

It would be very useful for someone to model them independently using the data/measurements and compare the two 3D files. The other way is to print out the stls and eyeball against the originals.

From what you have shown, you only have an additional No. 7 . If you provide the data, I will draw it. As above, it should be the left hand version of a No. 8 but is clearly not a mirror image. It is, however, worth trying to see if there is any logical way to go from right to left as then it potentially would be possible to make a No. 1, for a standard 2-flute left hand drill (which would be the most useful of the left hand cams, albeit 'most useful' meaning 'fewer than 1 in 200 drills').

 

[Smouser]

See post #68 above, from last Sunday. I thought the attachment contained .stl files. If it is corrupted, please say and I will redo.

I could also upload them as .STEP files or FreeCAD models (but everyone here disdains that software, hence the raw data so all the confusionistas or offshapers can have a go themselves).

It would be very useful for someone to model them independently using the data/measurements and compare the two 3D files. The other way is to print out the stls and eyeball against the originals.

From what you have shown, you only have an additional No. 7 . If you provide the data, I will draw it. As above, it should be the left hand version of a No. 8 but is clearly not a mirror image. It is, however, worth trying to see if there is any logical way to go from right to left as then it potentially would be possible to make a No. 1, for a standard 2-flute left hand drill (which would be the most useful of the left hand cams, albeit 'most useful' meaning 'fewer than 1 in 200 drills').

Thanks, @Agroshield, I somehow missed the .stl files.

I don't have a 3D printer (because I don't need another hobby). However, it seems that 3D printers are finally reaching a stage where you don't have to 'fiddle' with them constantly.
I need a 3D printer that can print some parts and bits but I don't want the printer itself to become a hobby.

I will ask my mate to print a couple as test pieces.

But, maybe I should finish my refurbing my drill grinder first

 

[Smouser]

Here goes nothing.

I hope it is successful.

 

[Smouser]

Well, it was a disaster.

The filament used was Diran and it has been opened and in the machine for an unknown time. The filament most probably absorbed moisture. The printer I used is installed in a shipping container mounted on truck and could be used for additive manufacturing in remote locations.

I won't have access to that printer for the foreseeable future so there is no point in trying to troubleshoot the horrible prints I got.

Comparison between the original and dodgy printed ones.

Because the prints came out so badly, it is difficult to properly compare the originals vs the printed ones.

I will try again on another printer when the opportunity arise.

 

[Agroshield]

The printer I used is installed in a shipping container mounted on truck and could be used for additive manufacturing in remote locations.

Is it worth giving some constructive feedback to the truck owner and suggesting vacuum bags with dessiccant for their filament? One day they might need to print something out in the bush and if the same happens to them, it could be more serious.

As a general observation, thinking of strength/wear resistance of the cam running surface, maybe ask in the 3DP part of the forum concerning printing possiblities.

It strikes me that the top layer might work better going around and around (and varying Z- as it does) rather than a 'square' pattern, but the slicer might not be able to do that.

 

[Smouser]

Is it worth giving some constructive feedback to the truck owner and suggesting vacuum bags with dessiccant for their filament? One day they might need to print something out in the bush and if the same happens to them, it could be more serious.

I am sure when the 'true' owners of the truck and printers use the printers they just open a new role of filament. There were stacks of new sealed filaments but I did not want to open their new stock.

As this truck and ISO container were only used on a show to demonstrate the possibilities of additive manufacturing/the printer setup in the shipping container I guess they didn't care that the filament was not taken care of properly.

As a general observation, thinking of strength/wear resistance of the cam running surface, maybe ask in the 3DP part of the forum concerning printing possiblities.

It strikes me that the top layer might work better going around and around (and varying Z- as it does) rather than a 'square' pattern, but the slicer might not be able to do that.

Good point. Something to consider at a later stage when I get the opportunity again to try a print or two.

 

[Smouser]

The Brierley project has stalled for a bit due to work and other projects.

However, I did buy another Brierley at an auction a while back and shamelessly removed the degree scale from it to fit mine.

Mine had half of the scale missing.

The scale was removed from the 'donor' Brierley.
I found tile nippers to work the best in withdrawing the rivets that normally hold these types of decals or data plates onto machines/motors.

I normally replace the rivets so damaging the originals are not too much of a problem.

I used the removed scale to make a quick brass strip scale to go back on the 'donor' Brierely.
It does not look pretty, but it will work just fine.