Castolin Castotig 2002 ( mw2000?)

[Member 32799]

start main current pin 9+5 .
up pin 9+ 4.
down pin 9+2,
Current 2 , pin 9+3


you need two switch torch for adjustment in den sub menu , start + current 2 . Up down is optinal .

 

[Peet]

Perfect . thank you very much. I will instal switch into front panel for adjustment in menu. And Can I adjust welding current with Up and Down key on torch during welding?

 

[Macfun]

When you have a 2 buttons torch (like my original Castolin G220), you can adjust current in 4T mode.
Instead of (expensive) pedal.

 

[Jan-DIY]

Anyone can explain why my previous post is removed?

 

[Macfun]

Anyone can explain why my previous post is removed?

I don't know.
Administrator's decision to remove both post in german and your polite reply.
Nothing to do with you personally I think.

 

[BikeWelder]

@Macfun hope you've got your thinking cap on, my Castotig 2002 AC/DC has just stopped energising the gas valve.....absolutely everything else is working!, any thoughts? (and there's no power going to the gas valve so it isn't the valve itself!!)

Best regards Alex

 

[Macfun]

Hi !
I am not at the workshop all the week ... and I don't remember which card drives the valve.
Check the 24 volts transformer ( I think gas valve is 24) ... and possible fuse.

 

[MechEng70]

Hello from Australia,

If you have 230V on the input and no HF usually this unit is broken.
As mentioned, you get a new one here: http://www.egt-gmbh.de/

I have a CastoTig 2002 and the HF went out a few months ago - I found this post and tested the input to the grey EGT igniter unit. The people at EGT were very helpful - the part from the welder was the Fronius part number but they identified it as the SIG 3.8. Shipping was almost as expensive as the unit but it arrived safely. The only thing I can add is raid Ken and Barbie's tool box for a 1/4 inch ratchet drive and a 50 mm long T20 Torx bit - (about AUD $15.00 all up on Ebay) - greatly simplifies removal replacement.

Thanks again for the original posts - gave me the confidence to drop the $300 on it.

 

[MechEng71]

Hello again - was MechEng70 but can't log in anymore :-(

Today's problem - welder powered up and was "on" for about 1 minute - then the breaker / earth leakage (residual current device) dropped out. Transferred the power supply to a non-earth leakage protected circuit - unit "powered up" - displaying current / voltage and after a couple of minutes - a component popped and let the smoke out.

There is an inlet power filter circuit board - NF223 4.070.474 V1.1A with 2 small capacitors (RIFA PME 271 Y 22n) that go to ground - one had popped and the other isn't looking too healthy. The capacitors appeared to have worked as "fuses" - just wondering if anyone else has experienced this failure OR is it indicative of a greater problem further through the circuitry.

Puzzling thing for me - the "slow" time it took to pull the earth leakage / finally pop the capacitor. I never actually struck an arc and pulled serious power - this happened within a minute or two of the unit being powered on BUT it had got through the usual checks and was displaying current / voltage.

Just dropped the AUD $300 on the HF igniter and am a bit reluctant to keep repairing if I'm only getting a couple of months between failures.

Any suggestions gratefully received.

 

[Jan-DIY]

These capacitors are a common problem in electronic systems.

 

[eddie49]

FYI, there are two parts to the voltage specification of these RIFA capacitors:

- the working voltage - e.g. on a 230v mains circuit, a rating of 400v or more would be fine
- the highest value of a brief spike that it can safely withstand

The latter is described as the "X" or "Y" rating of the capacitor. A type "X" capacitor is typically placed across the AC power lines to filter noise, and a type "Y" is connected from Live - or signal - to Earth.

A capacitor that is rated at "X1" can withstand an impulse ( spike ) of 4,000 volts ( typically used in industrial applications ) and an "X2" can safely handle 2,500 volts ( typically for domestic use ).
Where the capacitor is feeding to ground, a rating of "Y1" means 8,000 volts, and "Y2" is 5,000 volts.

 

[MechEng71]

Thanks for the quick responses - full specs on the capacitors - One side - RIFA PME 271 Y 40/100/56/B, Other Side 250 V ~ SH Top: 22n Y2. I managed to find some online (same brand / spec) so will replace like for like. There are 2 large grey plastic housed components 30 mm long x 20 mm high x 10 mm thick with no markings - the RIFA capacitors feed one side of these to ground. Amazingly - all the input power goes through the paths on this circuit board (something I had not really considered until I pulled the board out / disconnecting the in and out cables.

 

[MechEng71]

So - replacement capacitors arrived (AUD$12 delivered from the Netherlands !!). De-soldering the leg from the main "power" tracks on the circuit board required a lot of heat (a 70 W soldering iron @ 480 deg C wouldn't cut it). Eventually got the old ones off and soldered the new ones in. Success - welder stays powered up. I have yet to use it in anger but looks good.

 

[Macfun]

Good old Europe sometimes helps ...

 

[Newweldtig2002]

I believe/hope that the 10% tolerance resistors sold by Conrad can electrically fit the board instead of the original 5% tolerance.

Is there a way to reduce the overheating of the resistance ?
For example by soldering them 5/10 mm away from the board ?

I know these components broke after 20 years and that new ones could last the same ...

Please note that KH208-8 serie was replaced in 2016 by KHS500 series.
https://www.mouser.be/datasheet/2/447/vitrohm_series_khs_-_201612-1826434.pdf

Hi, new to the group. But very pleased with the information. Had the same problem with the resistors on the main board. My approach us different: I ordered 9 watt models instead of 5 watt. They are a bit bigger but there's enough space. I hope to tackle the heat problem. I also had 2 of the fast diodes the fro187 dead. Took a long search for them and found the stmicroelectonics stth20002tv1 in china for a super price: 6,75 euro. I hope these will do the job of the originals. Some users mentioned these replacements but I didn't see a post where someone used them and let us know if thy work. Is there anyone with these diodes in the castotig 2002 acdc?

 

[Jan-DIY]

Yes. STTH2002 and also 2004 are working fine.
The price you mentioned is too good to be true.
You get a chance that these diodes are fake.
Fingers crossed that they are NOS originals.

 

[Newweldtig2002]

To get these diodes I just typed on the aliexpress site the number stth20002tv1 and I got multiple hits. Yes I'll have to see if the're fakes but they look ok. Even with the ST logo on them. I buy a lot of things in China and only have good experiences. All the products we use in Europe are made in China. So I'm confident they will work.
But this site is for people that repair things on the castitig awesome. Keep up the good works!

 

[Jan-DIY]

Tbh Ultrafast diodes are now very rare and about 6 dollars, euro or sterling too good to be true.
Fingers crossed that you got what you are looking for.
STTH2002 or 4 are about 20€ each here in european mainland.

 

[Newweldtig2002]

I never saw them cheaper than 30 euros each. So Ali came in sight.

Do you know if there are service manuals of the castotig 2002 acdc availble somewhere? I searched the net but couldn't find one.

 

[Jan-DIY]

I never seen a service manual for MagicWave 200 and derivates.
Got a copy for Magicwave 300 but they are not comparable to the smaller 200A machines.