Chainsaw and 2 stroke maintence

[Migmac]

If you start it on the ground and it catches it’ll hit the ground at worst. Cold start one between your knees or yo yo start it and it catches it an very easily go to your legs, not everyone wears safety gear.

Go on the saw courses I’ve been on and sharpen a saw without saw gloves on and you’ll be told quick smart to get them. Files slip and you can get nasty cuts.

It’s that simple

 

[8ob]

I dont understand the reasoning for a cold start on ground. Saws are not viscious beasts when they are started. Perhaps incase the throttle is broken or stuck on?

Similarly they want us to do all chain maintence wearing gloves - not chainsaw gloves, any gloves. When asked "rated for what type of protection?" I just got a blank face. I dont have the feel for filing in cloth gloves, I will try the nitrile disposable type for the test.

You need to stop overthinking what you are being taught and stick with it, its more about the safe use of the equipment than anything else. Its a bit like driving a car, they teach you how to be a safe road user and off you go, not much of what you are taught filters through into the real world of motoring.

Bob

 

[addjunkie]

If you start it on the ground and it catches it’ll hit the ground at worst. Cold start one between your knees or yo yo start it and it catches it an very easily go to your legs, not everyone wears safety gear.

Go on the saw courses I’ve been on and sharpen a saw without saw gloves on and you’ll be told quick smart to get them. Files slip and you can get nasty cuts.

It’s that simple

Elf and safety default these days for doing anything with your hands is to wear gloves, but the glove type though not often not specified is actually fairly important….for example woulda heart surgeon wear riggers gloves!
To me sharpening a saw would be normal mechanical hand protection, using the saw requires a different glove as the hazard is very different

 

[Migmac]

Elf and safety default these days for doing anything with your hands is to wear gloves, but the glove type though not often not specified is actually fairly important….for example woulda heart surgeon wear riggers gloves!
To me sharpening a saw would be normal mechanical hand protection, using the saw requires a different glove as the hazard is very different

The chainsaw gloves have only got protection on the back side of the hands, using them to hold things is pretty easy unless the gloves are wet, get very slippy. Grip dot used to be the favourite glove of contractors

 

[Kram]

If you start it on the ground and it catches it’ll hit the ground at worst. Cold start one between your knees or yo yo start it and it catches it an very easily go to your legs, not everyone wears safety gear.

Go on the saw courses I’ve been on and sharpen a saw without saw gloves on and you’ll be told quick smart to get them. Files slip and you can get nasty cuts.

It’s that simple

Disagree. If you cant use a file correctly you have no place using a chainsaw. Gloves without a rating for cut resistance will do nothing if you run you hand into the (stationary) chain, I know because I have done it. So will a silky. Better not to be careless around sharp tools!
Leather or kevlar gloves may prevent minor cuts but clumbersome and unnessasary.
If its for protection against chain/2t oils then nitrile gloves or barrier cream would be better.

Back of the left hand protection, how are you going to hit the back of your left hand if your holding the handle?
None of the protective gloves are climber gloves for top handle use (where left hand cuts are common).
I know a guy who did his left wrist badly, from being careless with a top handle.

I know of another guy with severe white finger who has been off sick for two years from saw use. White finger scares me a lot more than cuts.

 

[Migmac]

Disagree. If you cant use a file correctly you have no place using a chainsaw. Gloves without a rating for cut resistance will do nothing if you run you hand into the (stationary) chain, I know because I have done it. So will a silky. Better not to be careless around sharp tools!
Leather or kevlar gloves may prevent minor cuts but clumbersome and unnessasary.
If its for protection against chain/2t oils then nitrile gloves or barrier cream would be better.

Back of the left hand protection, how are you going to hit the back of your left hand if your holding the handle?
None of the protective gloves are climber gloves for top handle use (where left hand cuts are common).
I know a guy who did his left wrist badly, from being careless with a top handle.

I know of another guy with severe white finger who has been off sick for two years from saw use. White finger scares me a lot more than cuts.

Accidents are accidents, they happen to the most careful of people too.

I think Bob has hit the nail on the head.

 

[pedrobedro]

Personally I just start them all on the ground

Me too, drop starting hurts my elbow.

 

[Kram]

It arrived!

Unsure what fuel mix to use in this, should I mix richer for the run in?
Farmertec site says 25:1 but likely due to poor quality oils in some countries. Instructions say 32:1. I read that 40:1 is best?

It came with a 3/8 sprocket and listed as being for full size 3/8 with 20 inch+ bars and I will need to get one. Has the wider studs as is common with Husquavana stuff. Im not seeing any cheap ones on amazon, theres a couple of 18" oregons.

Any reason I shouldnt test it out with my 3/8LP 16" ? Would a LP chain be upto light use if I go easy on it? Wouldnt want to snap a chain and smash it up on the first use....almost fits.

Also ordered a chainsaw mill as I have some logs to be sliced up.

Pardon our interruption...

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Guineafowl]

Also ordered a chainsaw mill as I have some logs to be sliced up.

I’ve got one of those. Pretty hard on the saw, so maybe up the oil percentage a bit for doing that. Also, a 10deg ripping chain is worth getting.

 

[roblane65]

You should not be using 3/8 lp chain on a full 3/8's sprocket ! the pitch between the rivits is the same but the drive links are smaller matching chain and sprocket always , is your Lp chain the correct gauge for your bar . You'll get away with running a smaller gauge but not ideal .

 

[Kram]

Chain and bar are both 1.3mm gauge. I think the G372xp is intended 1.5mm, its a rim sprocket.

May have a problem. Filled with fuel, wet floor, tho only a small leak, its around the fuel hose connection area, possibly a cracked tank

Theres no primer bulb on this, took a many pulls and a full throttle pull to get an initial fire but then started easy with choke off.

Its loud!

 

[roblane65]

The guage tends not to make any difference on the sprocket , but I still wouldn't be trying an LP chain on it .

 

[GRW]

Ref chain cleaning.... have you tried Kerosene? I find it superior to diesel (& lots of pricey cleaners).
I use it to clean my MTB chains (which are used in appalling forest grit, mud sawdust, water etc etc).

(I use Chainsaw chain oil as lube in preference to all the expensive chain lubes as well on my MTB chains - as I did on my motorcycle chains. IME nothing works better).

 

[Migmac]

The guy I know that runs these saws replaces all the rubber stuff with OEM husky stuff, straight out of the box.

 

[Dozzer]

You lot have no idea on chainsaw safety

 

[Dozzer]

Its one way to remove him from the gene pool

 

[zeppelin builder]

Always done mine with a pressure washer, hot or cold. Spray the chain with some WD40 or whatever, and it all comes off.

Maybe you do not have enough oil feeding to the chain ?

Regarding speed, I find out Stihl cuts better on about 2/3rds throttle and not full speed, especially on thicker stuff.

if it revs like a banshee but bogs down cutting its too weak and needs a tweak ritcher you get to know the sound

 

[Kram]

Do not use lo Pro 3/8 on a standard 3/8 bar.
The low pro drive link is much smaller, it will ride up the sprocket and over tension the chain or manage to jump over the sprocket dog completely.
Secondly, the Low Pro being a shallower chassis requires a larger diameter drive to compensate for its shallower chassis, without it the chain will not balance on the rim, it will balance on the bar, but it will come off the rim very easy especially owing to its smaller drive link profile riding up on the drive spur.
View attachment 432088

I would never mix a chain and bar of different guage or type. Bar and chain are the same 3/8LP 1.3mm from here

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BX3VN829/

Question is really if the LP chain rivets will hold up to being on a 4kW saw. Most 3/8LP are generally for saws under 2kW/40cc. I imagine it will be ok provided I dont do any heavy full throttle cutting.

 

[addjunkie]

Why not just get the right chain etc to match the saw…..with chain saws its a bit like relationships…..if in doubt bail out!

 

[8ob]

I know of another guy with severe white finger who has been off sick for two years from saw use. White finger scares me a lot more than cuts.

Dont buy cheap chinese or old saws, AV ratings on branded newer saws are so much better than the old gear. Production cutters of years gone by that were on a saw all day every day may get white finger, very few climbers would suffer with it. I had to do a report for a solicitor on the subject detailing the typical average saw time for a climber, its typically a fraction of that of a groundsman.

Bob