Chainsaw and 2 stroke maintence

[Kram]

Thanks! Thats why I got the 2511, tho I think the 020T and this g372xp will not be any worse than modern ones.

Problem found

It is not the tank, tank is fine Not too happy how it looks, I will clean up the weld and maybe plastic weld some reinforcement where it looks bad.

Its the tank vent, the green rubber is closing up allowing the tank to be pressurised - and I assume vacuum fuel starvation if I ran the fuel down. Without it, it leaks a bit when on its side. I may try to wedge it open a crack with some mig wire.

 

[DAPPH]

Whats the best liquid for disolving wood sap/resin/dirt off of chains and metal, or plastic? Tried soaking chains in diesel and it wont touch it. Newish chains too, its not old, hardened dirt. I am thinking acetone or similar for the metal but not near plastic.

I recieved the Stihl 020T today, I stuck a new filter and fuel in, runs very nicely.
I think I will want a shorter bar for most of my climbing, will see if my 10" fits from the cordless.

The McCullock CS340 is the same displacement yet the 020T feels like its cutting twice as fast. Can the CS340 be improved?

As the crud is hardened organic with a little bit of oil & grease you need to penetrate it then mobilize it then wash it off.
hot soapy water through a power washer works. So does soaking the sap covered part over night in a bowl hot of bio soaped water with a half dozen squirts of the slightly caustic " Elbow grease in it" Then in the next day tooth / nail brush or scrubbing brush them to mobilize the muck then power wash then clean , dry the parts off using a microfibre cloth , Now put them in the airing cupboard for a several hours . to get them fiully dry ready for a quick WD40 anti rust coating .

WD 40 can also be good if the crud is damp , spray the part and rub hard with a bit of old toweling ,,,,very good on the visible plastic parts of electric lawn mowers & power tools a lot of the time .

 

[DAPPH]

Proper tool is only a few pounds, we all like to have tools

Make your own , modify an old spark plug , take out the ceramics & grind off the electrode braze in a brass shaft with slightly rounded ends but the starter cord idea is best as there is little change of it popping th e piston head .

 

[Kram]

I am buying the correct one, the question was of impaitentness rather than being cheap. I just wanted to start her up to check she runs

 

[Migmac]

Make your own , modify an old spark plug , take out the ceramics & grind off the electrode braze in a brass shaft with slightly rounded ends

Got one somewhere

 

[DAPPH]

Thanks! Thats why I got the 2511, tho I think the 020T and this g372xp will not be any worse than modern ones.

Problem found
View attachment 432163
View attachment 432164
It is not the tank, tank is fine Not too happy how it looks, I will clean up the weld and maybe plastic weld some reinforcement where it looks bad.

View attachment 432165
Its the tank vent, the green rubber is closing up allowing the tank to be pressurised - and I assume vacuum fuel starvation if I ran the fuel down. Without it, it leaks a bit when on its side. I may try to wedge it open a crack with some mig wire.

Kram , does the filler cap not have a tiny breather hole too ...... if so check it is not blocked , as that used to be one of the first things I checked when repairing or servicing our fleet hires 30 or so machines as well as many many customer servicing's & repairs ? If the fuel tank were pressurized surely you would have intermittent flooding via the carb .

 

[DAPPH]

Anti vibration large size gloves help too .

 

[Kram]

Fixed

A small coil of 0.6mm copper wire will keep the rubber vent seal open just enough, without widdling fuel if it goes on its side or upside down.

I'll also replace the hoses. The filter hose easy enough, but this vent hose I am unsure if it goes to a hose barb or what. Its recessed in the plasic so I am unsure if it pulls off?

 

[Dozzer]

Make your own , modify an old spark plug , take out the ceramics & grind off the electrode braze in a brass shaft with slightly rounded ends but the starter cord idea is best as there is little change of it popping th e piston head .

For locking a piston on any engine that doesn't have a locking pin, a long piece of 6/10mm rope shoved down the plug hole is a lot less hassle and less likely to crack the crown of the piston.
you only need a small amount to take up the squish clearance about 150mm max.
Use it when changing clutches or stripping down. have used on quite large car engines, still works.

 

[Migmac]

For locking a piston on any engine that doesn't have a locking pin, a long piece of 6/10mm rope shoved down the plug hole is a lot less hassle and less likely to crack the crown of the piston.
you only need a small amount to take up the squish clearance about 150mm max.
Use it when changing clutches or stripping down. have used on quite large car engines, still works.

I use a piston stop, a metal one. Never damaged anything yet, you just have to take care. I helped a pal remove a rope he put down the plug hole of a quad bike engine. Using rope isn’t hassle free.

 

[Dozzer]

I use a piston stop, a metal one. Never damaged anything yet, you just have to take care. I helped a pal remove a rope he put down the plug hole of a quad bike engine. Using rope isn’t hassle free.

All depends on if you use a long enough piece of rope
The crown on some small 2 stroke pistons can be less than 1mm in the centre. doesn't take a great deal of point pressure to damage, you may not see it but it may let go a few hours later.
If you are taking off a flywheel nut with an impact gun, i know what one i would use.
Not saying either is better, just offering another option.

 

[Kram]

I am irritated about the bar /chain, I wasted a lot of time and in end bought these, £37 on bar and £20 for chain

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00I8P75XE

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00665KR7Y

Emailed seller about the tank, but for now an attempt at making it safer. I was suprised how far a blade went in the gap! If there is fuel to the end there cant of been much plastic holding it in.

Im not sure why they ground the glue joint as theres plenty of clearance to the engine case above.

 

[Kram]

Problem, throttle doesnt want to close back to the idle screw. Cable is threaded through the grommet but Im not sure how it should run as it leaves the handle.

Also Im unsure what this cable clamp is for on the RHS near the handle. Perhaps for the heated handlebar version XPG? I dont remember anything being clipped on before.

Found the left carb bolt was only finger tight. Threadlock added. Checked the cyl bolts and wondering if I should check all the crank case bolts too.

 

[Kram]

That was a massive PITA! Adjusted cable and closes fully but only seems to open 3/4 theres plenty of travel left on the butterfly.

I think any future saws will have a solid throttle linkage like the cs2511!

 

[Kram]

Anyone have a 372xp or similar that could get a photo of the carb throttle cable attachement with the lever fully open?

I'm not too happy my G372's lack of power, or atleast thats what it feels like.

Previously I wedged a bit of stick in the throttle cable attachement to take up some slack but it didnt do much.

After a couple of brief tests I turned up a 3.5mm dia spacer with a 2mm bore and slot for the cable entry. I found 3.2mm would give a fast idle and start to spin the chain so filed it down to 3mm which works.

Seems to have more power and rev a bit higher but, probably needs some carb screw adjustment. I'll have to read up on that first..
The throttle butterfly still has a small amount of travel to fully open.

 

[Dozzer]

Anyone have a 372xp or similar that could get a photo of the carb throttle cable attachement with the lever fully open?

I'm not too happy my G372's lack of power, or atleast thats what it feels like.

Previously I wedged a bit of stick in the throttle cable attachement to take up some slack but it didnt do much.


After a couple of brief tests I turned up a 3.5mm dia spacer with a 2mm bore and slot for the cable entry. I found 3.2mm would give a fast idle and start to spin the chain so filed it down to 3mm which works.


Seems to have more power and rev a bit higher but, probably needs some carb screw adjustment. I'll have to read up on that first..
The throttle butterfly still has a small amount of travel to fully open.

Have a 372, its a bit abused, but i can take a pic, give me half an hour

 

[Dozzer]

Open

Closed

 

[Dozzer]

Sorry about state of saw but its done some work recently,
Would say there is about 90deg of rotation in the throttle quadrant.
on one of the US chainsaw forums that i occasionally lurk on. there is a guy that buys the cheep 372 copies but changes a number of parts before selling them on, it may be worth trying to find that info.
He tunes them as well.

 

[8ob]

Anyone have a 372xp or similar that could get a photo of the carb throttle cable attachement with the lever fully open?

I'm not too happy my G372's lack of power, or atleast thats what it feels like.

Previously I wedged a bit of stick in the throttle cable attachement to take up some slack but it didnt do much.
View attachment 433924

After a couple of brief tests I turned up a 3.5mm dia spacer with a 2mm bore and slot for the cable entry. I found 3.2mm would give a fast idle and start to spin the chain so filed it down to 3mm which works.

View attachment 433925
Seems to have more power and rev a bit higher but, probably needs some carb screw adjustment. I'll have to read up on that first..
The throttle butterfly still has a small amount of travel to fully open.

The plate the throttle spindle is attached to is bent towards the carb, its supposed to fall/return into the slot where the idle screw is. May be able to tease it over.

Bob

 

[Kram]

The plate the throttle spindle is attached to is bent towards the carb, its supposed to fall/return into the slot where the idle screw is. May be able to tease it over.

Bob

When throttle closed it rests on the idle screw, both pics were full throttle before and after adding the spacer, it adds about 20-30 degrees to the spindle.

View attachment 433943
Open

View attachment 433944
Closed

Thanks for that, Im still a bit unsure as yours appears to be a different model carb but your throttle does move a lot further than mine.